UKC

14m. This is the obvious challenge of the blank central slab. The climbing is very thin, precarious and unprotected (apart from the bouldering mats piled up beneath!) Start to the left of the buttress. Step onto a boulder then move up the wall to a break (as for The Hog's Back). Traverse this rightwards until beneath the centre of the slab, as far right as you can go on the break (this point is directly above the start of Hung For the Slaughter). Make a committing step up onto a smear then climb crystals to gain the deep break. Traverse left along this then up the flake above

Simon Young 1998.

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Guidebooks for Lustleigh Cleave

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High E8
Mid E8
Low E8
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High 7a
Mid 7a
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High 6c
Mid 6c
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High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Route of Interest
Wolfsbane

Grade: E7 6c ***
(Lundy)

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