UKC

30m. To the south (right) of the main West Face of Suspension Bridge Buttress is a much shorter buttress with much of its top section under black keep netting. There are three routes on the crag; this is the left-hand of the three.

Starting at a leftward-facing niche with two large rock anchors, traverse left up an ledge system for 2m before heading straight up the black wall to a good thread. Continue very enjoyably up the black wall, loudly lamenting the total lack of runners, until a large ledge is reached. Pleasant climbing up the shattered arĂȘte above (using the netting for handholds is clearly cheating) follows. Traverse the ridge to a large tree and excellent stanchion.

Descent: Abseil of the tree (no strop fitted currently).

Colin Knowles, Steve Marriott 27/Feb/2015.

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2022 Avon Gorge VS - E1

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Route of Interest
Malbogies

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Avon Gorge (Main Area))

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