UKC

Restricted Access

July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock)  in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area. 

The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.

BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.

55m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A great route, although many people may wish to abseil in from the top of the fin to savour the easier pitch two. To gain the base of the route, it is best to abseil from the belay station below Combat Rock .
1) 7a, 25m. Climb the attractive well-bolted slab/groove to the right of the second arete pitch of Black Hole Sun to a bolt belay on a ledge. An easy scramble leads up to the bolt belay of Black Hole Sun.
2) 6a+, 30m. Climb the groove to the left of the top arete pitch of Black Hole Sun, to reach a bolt belay on top of the fin of rock. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Abseil in from the top of the fin or use the South Wall abseil point above 'Wolfhound' alternatively carefully traverse rightwards (roped) from the Twll Mawr entrance Tunnel.
Pitch 1 - 25m 7a Climb the attractive slab / groove to the right of the 2nd (Arête) pitch of 'Black Hole Sun' past 10 Bolts to a Bolt Belay on a ledge, an easy scramble leads up to the bolt belay of ‘Black Hole Sun’.
Pitch 2 - 30m 6a+ Climb the groove to the left of the top Arête pitch of 'Black Hole Sun' 10 Bolts, to a bolt belay on top of the fin of rock.
The top pitch at 6a+ is the easiest sport pitch in Twll Mawr and is worth doing as a single pitch to 'experience' the Twll Mawr atmosphere (abseil in for this).

NOTE: If you've enjoyed any of the bolted routes in Twll Mawr please consider donating to the North Wales Bolt Fund :-)

http://northwalesboltfund.webs.com/

Ian Lloyd-Jones (P1) and Callum Nelson (p2) 15/Mar/2015.

Ticklists

Dinorwic Slate - Multi Pitch Sport Climbs , All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 7a & 7a+ , Twll Mawr Big Wall 1000 Metre Challenge! , Sl@teheads Sl@te , All multi-pitch sport routes (England and Wales)

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Logged Ascents

12 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Twll Mawr

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 12 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 2
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Toproped
Onsighted
Redpoint
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Entering the Neutral Zone

Grade: 7a ***
(Minllyn Quarry)

Loading Notifications...