UKC

300m, 9 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A modern route which is quickly gaining classic status.
1) 6a, 2) 5c. Cross the grassy ledge to reach the next pitch.
3) 6a+, 4) 6b, 5) 6a+, 6) 6a, 7) 6a+. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The line of glue-ins starting left of, then crossing Bon Voyage above the terrace. Probably the second easiest long route on the face - Sylvie Phobie is easier (with a point of aid on the crux move).

M. Piola 2013.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Leahcleire 16 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Climbed 1st 2 pitches. Wonderful climbing, good practice on trusting your feet.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Climbed 1st 2 pitches. Wonderful climbing, good practice on trusting your feet.
Webster 12 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: there are 2/3 pitches on the lower slabs which supposedly link into this, but they are often busy. at the main start there are so many lines of bolts it can be hard to work out what is what. you want the modern glue ins to the right of a small overhang (the rightmost set of bolts at this bay). the resin is not red on this pitch. if it looks harder than 6a you are probably on the wrong line!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: there are 2/3 pitches on the lower slabs which supposedly link into this, but they are often busy. at the main start there are so many lines of bolts it can be hard to work out what is what. you want the modern glue ins to the right of a small overhang (the rightmost set of bolts at this bay). the resin is not red on this pitch. if it looks harder than 6a you are probably on the wrong line!
Fiona Reid 8 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: At the start of pitch 3 in the Rockfax description you'll see 3 sets of bolts glue ins on the left, hangers middle and glue ins right. You want the left hand glue ins. The right hand set don't lead anywhere as the party next to us discovered...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: At the start of pitch 3 in the Rockfax description you'll see 3 sets of bolts glue ins on the left, hangers middle and glue ins right. You want the left hand glue ins. The right hand set don't lead anywhere as the party next to us discovered...
Mike-W-99 8 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: If in doubt follow the red resined in bolts. Rockfax misses out the 1st two pitches that are more commonly done.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: If in doubt follow the red resined in bolts. Rockfax misses out the 1st two pitches that are more commonly done.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Barberine Gietroz

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Voting
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 13
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Name unknown (new route, left of Sous la loupe)

Grade: 6b ***
(Barberine Gietroz)

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