UKC

35m. An athletic route of sustained difficulty and interest, climbing up the left (east-facing) side of the obvious steep arete where the east and north faces intersect. Start at the base of the arete. Climb out onto resting stance on right-hand wall. Reach back left into crack and make a hard move to gain better holds. Continue up with difficulty until it is possible to follow parallel diagonal cracks leftwards to the overlap. Gain hold on right above overlap, and then make a long reach out right for small incut hold. Hard strenuous moves upwards establish one on better holds above the overlap (crux). Move diagonally right to the arete to gain a good handhold, which once stood upon, provides the first "hands off" rest of the route. Climb up the arete on slightly easier ground to a ledge about 4 m. below the top. Move left off ledge to climb a short overhanging wall on large holds to the top.

Stephen Gallwey 07/May/1989.

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Grade: E3 6a ***
(Coumshingaun)

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