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Palavar-les-flots** 5a

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J'irai Percer Sur Vos Tombes >>
[Fidel climbing above the steep slab on pitch 4, 4 kb]400m, 11 pitches. D- Slab climbing above an abyss at a reasonable grade. Abseil the route for descent. 4c,4b,4b,5b,4b,4b,4c,5b,4c,4a,4a & 4a

Photo: Fidel climbing above the steep slab on pitch 4 © joemallia
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 153 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

Started in the afternoon, got the first 6 pitches done but then decided to abb off and head to the bar before it go dark. Straight-forward climbing but great position. Will be back again to finish it.
charley - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/14 with Steve Fletcher

Robb Bert - AltLd - 18/Aug/14

Lead the even pitches. 6 abs in row was exciting...
Mike.Kinge - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/14 with xav, will

Emily lead all cruxes. Abseils not obvious.
amy - 22/Jul/14


kateberry118 - AltLd - 05/Jul/14 with Mark Brims, Libby Southgate

myreal nayme - AltLd O/S - Jul/14

Zoe Cockburn - AltLd - Jul/14

lead odd no. pitches
Will Barber - AltLd O/S - Jul/14 with Mike Kinge, Xav

Elaine Budden - AltLd O/S - Jul/14 with Tristan Sherlock

Escaped route after pitch 9 because of rain. Climbed behind Tomek and Seb on a first rope then Peter, John and Alex on a second rope.
bvilsue - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/14 with Rob

Climbed six pitches and then bailed back down due to lack of time. The 5b pitch 4 is nice.
alexspurling - 22/Jun/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Jun/14

Great climb in under 3hrs, descent was horrid and took over 7hrs after getting lost in the gully
Retro Rowan - AltLd O/S - 11/Jun/14

alexcollins123 - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/14 with Theo Patten

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/13

Moved together over most of it.
d_meacher - AltLd rpt - 09/Sep/13 with Gill Byrne

andrzej kierzek - AltLd rpt - 19/Aug/13 with Tara

cas smerdon - AltLd - 15/Aug/13 with Mark S

daxtari - 2nd rpt - 14/Aug/13

Lead pitches 1 2 4 6 8 10 and 12. Felix lead the rest. Epic 6 pitch abseil - went too far right on one and ended up in the gully and climbing out on prussicks to get the ab point I'd missed.
AndrewP - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/13 with FelixPeterken

FelixPeterken - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/13 with Andrew Peterken

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/13

Great fun. Keep looking left (facing in) on the abs.
ChrisBrooke - AltLd O/S - 23/Jun/13 with John Inkpen

climbed in 2 1/2 hours...in beautiful weather. Joined 2 middle pitches together (took 60m ropes) keep looking left for ab points.. and care with loose rock on scramble down.
Helen Gibson - AltLd O/S - 17/Jun/13 with Chris Vernon

epic day on palavar.. led p1,3,5,6 & 10 great long route although the top x3 4a's aren't that interesting... great ab off.. even if we did get the rope snagged....
snakes77 - AltLd rpt - 17/Jun/13 with Monkey1

Interesting climbing, when abseiling we ended up going by the tree and then had to go left for the abseil. The cable at the bottom of the abseils is a little tricky.
amy91 - AltLd - 17/Jun/13 with Aaron Vincent

Abseil took as long as the climb!
Mick Riley - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Dominic

amazing route, mostly easy romping with a couple of more technical slab sections. very scary ad off although found all the stations ok. about 4hrs 30mins climbing plus 1hrs 30mins abding off.
LukeP LCC - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/13 with steve kirman

Climbing mostly easy apart from one pitch with some tricky slab moves, possibly around UK 5a. Abseil descent scary but found all the ab stations easily with the Plaisir select topo.
oliverk - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/12 with Sarah Moorhouse

Pero - AltLd - 07/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/12

Climbed with the guide Murray Hamilton. We started up J'irai Percer Sur Vos Tombes where I lead first two pitches of 5c and 6a. I seconded 6b+ and 6a+ pitches, but decided to switch to Palavar-les-flots, where the two routes met, so I could lead more within my grade. We finished up Palavar-les-flots.
andrzej kierzek - AltLd - 29/Aug/12

daxtari - AltLd O/S - 14/Aug/12

Chrismoore94 - AltLd - 11/Aug/12

Be careful with that first ab. Keep left (looking at the crag), don't go straight down or you will land on the wrong side of the 'glued on' tree. See guidebook.Alternatively, there is a rap point on the route about one pitch from the top.
Barry D - AltLd - 03/Aug/12 with Chris M

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/12

Very atmospheric clinb overlooking the valley and the camping. Nothing too difficult - basically on big long multipitch slab! One slightly more technical short slab in the middle which is delicate but very satisfying (about 5b I think). Be careful on the abseils - they are easy to miss and some friends of ours ended up abbing from some dodgy tatt in a tree! I recommend taking double 60s for this route!
BelayBunney - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/12 with Catherine

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/12

jonnie3430 - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/12 with Charlotte

Pat-H - AltLd O/S - Jul/12 with steven

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Jun/12

samwillo - AltLd - 22/Jun/12 with Hamish Creber

alexcollins123 - AltLd O/S - Jun/12

Nick_Merriman - AltLd O/S - Jun/12

joemallia - AltLd O/S - 20/Aug/11 with Fidel Sciamanna

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Aug/11

Climbed in blocks. Cath 1-4, Rhys 5-7, John 8-12. Up and back down in 5 1/2 hours. Rhys learned to use a guide plate on route!
John HW - AltLd - 16/Aug/11 with Rhys HW, Cath

tlmarjot - AltLd rpt - 12/Aug/11 with Ben Lea

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/11

Ian JL - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/11 with Beth Frampton

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Aug/11

frost - AltLd - 08/Aug/11 with Clare

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Jul/11

Shaw Brown - AltLd - 26/Jul/11 with Judith Neaves

m.alexander - AltLd - 24/Jul/11

Hidden - AltLd - 12/Jul/11

Started at 14:00, witha forecast of deteriorating weather. We got to the end of the difficulties(p.8) as few spots of rain began to fall so we abbed off as planned from mid-way up p.9. The abs are tricky to find and the 48m ab is exciting with 50m ropes. J.M Cambons guide Escalades Autour D'Ailefroide gives the best description of the descent.
Pete Nugent - AltLd - 12/Jul/11 with Paul Hampson

great route and some! the party wont be forgeting this one in a rush!! a must for all..
snakes77 - 2nd O/S - 14/Jun/11 with Monkey1

Awesome long route - you don't find routes like this in the UK, with a 20min walk in! Amongst some great pitches, the sheer length did get a bit tiresome by the end, still great day though. Abbed down line of route rather than main face as darkness was threatening, 11hours round trip.
monkey1 - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/11 with Snakes77

Great route, fun and easy. Moved together over last few pitches (4b). Hailed a bit on route, then hailed and rained a lot on the decent.
dave657 - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/11 with Alys

Excellent low grade 400m route, perfect conditions fantastic location,did all 11 pitches,helping a guide retrieve his stuck ropes on ab down, (Alpine grade D-)
shaun walby - AltLd O/S - Jun/11 with Ian Holtby

KittyKat - AltLd - Jun/11 with Edd Hofman

Hidden - Lead - 2011

Hidden - AltLd - 12/Sep/10

Did the climb in 3 hours but made a mess of the abseil. Plus the via ferrata cable on the descent not fun.
seeroo - AltLd O/S - 03/Sep/10 with Scone

Abseiled down the vertical face right of the climb. Exciting. Had to downclimb the buttress to the left of the cable in the dark. What we could see of the cable was not good.
MikeDowsett - AltLd - Sep/10 with Tony Fidler

pawelx - AltLd O/S - 14/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead - Aug/10

Shuttsie - 2nd - Aug/10 with Andrea Sales

jshields - AltLd - 31/Jul/10 with Ian Hicks

Superb long route. Abbing the steep face from the top in 5 abs is prefereable to descending the ridge.
Sankey - AltLd - 30/Jul/10 with Ed, Andy E

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/10

Lev - 2nd O/S - 29/Jul/10 with Emma Ross

Alternate leads - scary ab (having missed the correct descent route)
hang_about - AltLd - 25/Jul/10 with big al

langar27 - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/10 with jon harvey

Wanted to do this for 8 years , nice route .
JonHarvey - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/10 with James Langridge

Hidden - 30/Jun/10

Odd pitches.
natalio - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/10 with Stephen

Led even numbered pitches, inlcuding the 5b's - fab! nice straightforward climbing. Abseils were 'interesting'.
mattparratt - AltLd - 09/Sep/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/09

Calder - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/09 with Le Chef

Diggler - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/09 with Andy Clow

auld al - AltLd O/S - Jul/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Jun/09

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Jun/09

Lou Kennedy - AltLd - 06/Jun/09

Hidden - Jun/09

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/09

Hidden - AltLd - 27/May/09

chrissloan84 - AltLd - 2009 with paul

rained off after 7 pitches
the juicy dangler - AltLd O/S - 10/Sep/08 with james marjot and andrew davies

Led the 4c & 5b pitches. Nice route, with the whole of Europe on it.
net - AltLd - 18/Aug/08 with Raph B

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Aug/08

easy but fun.
mulletcocktail2000 - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/08 with joe

Simon Allcock - AltLd - Aug/08 with nick

d_meacher - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/08 with Trisha Murphy

Trisha Murphy - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/08 with d_meacher

JLS - AltLd O/S - 17/Jul/08 with Jacqui

Fat Tim - AltLd - 16/Jul/08 with Sarah Baker

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/08

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Jul/08

Hidden - Lead - 28/Jun/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/08

wigwamheed - Jun/08 with paulo

lemon - AltLd O/S - Jun/08 with Rich Stevens

rlrs - AltLd - Sep/07

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Aug/07

Matt Schwarz - AltLd O/S - 17/Jul/07

TimPerkin - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/07 with Chris Griffiths, Colin Beechey

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/07

tom.e - AltLd O/S - Jul/07 with Tom Powell

Mr Powly - Jul/07 with Tom Everett

robertporter - AltLd - Jul/07

JGW - AltLd - Jul/07 with Matt Tilley

tlmarjot - AltLd O/S - Jul/07 with Anna Wilding

thecurlyone - AltLd O/S - Jul/07 with Andras Scholler

jimjimmyjimjim - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/07

maybe_si - AltLd O/S - Jun/07 with charlie

ebunick - AltLd O/S - Jun/07 with Jim

First multi-pitch climb. Oscar lead most of the pitches.
bvilsue - AltLd - Jun/07 with Oscar Canadien

Carmen led the odd numbered pitches, I led the even. Fourth pitch was hardest (fairly sustained 5), the 8th pitch has a step of 5+ but it's literally only one step, and protect by a waist high bolt. The rest was sustained 4/4+ and superb. The abseil descent was mildly stressful (6 abs), especially when I abbed past both the 2nd and 3rd chains and had to climb back up.
Simon Caldwell - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/06 with Carmen

bit of a path
Morgan Woods - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/06 with Dhanraj

glenngordon - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/06 with simon tait

jimdanson - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/06 with Dan Robinson, Dan Middleton

danm - AltLd - Aug/06 with Jim Danson, Dan Robinson

felt easy for grade
James W - Aug/06 with john sanday

Chris Plewa - AltLd O/S - Aug/06 with adam reid, simon gall

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Jul/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/06

Chris L Hill - AltLd O/S - Jul/06 with Simon Pearce

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/06

Sudden tremendous downpour with thunder and lightning forced us down from about half way
upontop - Lead dnf - Jun/06 with Chris

A speed ascent in 1 hour 12 mins as part of a 6 hour enchainment with cascade blues and snoopy
al99 - AltLd O/S - Jun/06 with Luke Thomas

Stuart Macfarlane - AltLd - 04/Aug/05 with Dave C

al99 - AltLd O/S - Jun/05 with Luke Thomas

Dave Latimer - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/04

Hidden - Lead - 09/Aug/04

Brilliant Route
samwelli - AltLd O/S - 05/Aug/04 with Gregor Smith

Climb very easy but turned into a bit of an adventure - loosing the abseil points on the way down in the dark, got back on the floor at about 5:30 in the morning.
Adam Potter - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/04 with Jo Yule, Andy Yule

Nigel R Lewis - AltLd - Aug/03 with Andy Rees

Callum Anderson - AltLd - 2003

dan gibson - AltLd - Sep/01 with anthony prior

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Aug/01

Dave Toseland - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/01 with Bill

barrington1978 - Jun/01

Tim Bateman - AltLd - 08/Aug/96 with Graham Salmon

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1996

Arethusa trip. Lost contact lens on last pitch.
iskra2000 - AltLd - 20/Aug/95 with Dave Stafford

Ghastly Rubberfeet - Lead - Jul/93

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/92

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
jennym32, Hidden, Adam1973, Ropeboy

Voting
Total votes cast 44
hard 5c0 of 23
5c0 of 23
easy 5c0 of 23
hard 5a1 of 23
5a20 of 23
easy 5a1 of 23
hard 4c1 of 23
4c0 of 23
easy 4c0 of 23
3 Stars18 of 21
2 Stars3 of 21
1 Star0 of 21
0 Stars0 of 21
Bag of .....0 of 21
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Style of ascent

Lead15 of 153 (9.8%)
Followed6 of 153 (3.9%)
Alt Leads124 of 153 (81.0%)
Unknown8 of 153 (5.2%)

'Climbed'65 of 153 (42.5%)
clean O/S82 of 153 (53.6%)
clean rpt5 of 153 (3.3%)
dnf1 of 153 (0.7%)