UKC

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The upper cliff had some good trad climbing that is worth looking at if the swell is affecting other areas of the Swanage cliffs. A steady head is needed to deal with the odd loose section of rock but is often better than it looks. One nut crack area has some friendly routes to get you started. The Yellow wall is a big adventure in its self and see few assents, but when the evening light is on it looks amazing.

The boulder field is worth making the long trek with pads to explore, just take it steady down the steep entry slopes.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Restrictions apply from Pier Bottom (the valley north of St Aldhem's Head) to the east arete of The Yellow Wall and from Buttery Corner (the point at which the undercliff below St. Aldhelm's Head gives way to seacliff) to Slippery Ledge.

Rockfax Description
In the middle of the right wall of the corner is a lone flake. Use this to make a long reach to a sloping edge and a pinch. Finish at the break. © Rockfax

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User Date Notes
afrosam 19 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Much easier for the tall
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Much easier for the tall

Logged Ascents

23 users have logged this

Guidebooks for St. Aldhelm's Head

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 17 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High f7C
Mid f7C
Low f7C
High f7B+
Mid f7B+
Low f7B+
High f7B
Mid f7B
Low f7B
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Not Set
DNF
Redpoint
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Stompin' with Bez Direct

Grade: f7B+ ***
(The New Cuttings)

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