27m.
BIKE, NO SADDLE. 27m. VS (4c, 4c)
Two corners, divided by a sloping shelf above a short vertical wall.
1. Start as for Boru and scramble up an easy-angled rib to a pulpit-type ledge. Move left up a small rib of rock to a large ledge at the base of a vertical wall. This is "Shite Ledge". Climb the quartz corner on the right, traverse left to pull onto a sloping triangular ledge. (Variation: move left along the wall, gain a lower ledge, step up to the higher ledge) Belay here.
2. Climb the corner on the left over a small triangular flat slab. Move right , pull up and over to another sloping ledge at the base of the last corner (Variation: Move left and gain the ledge directly). This is 'Feckin Ants' ledge. Step onto the arête, using two small toe ledges to gain height. Move your feet back to the left face of the arête onto a upward trending narrow crack . Delicately edge up this to reach a good hold on the left wall above a small triangular alcove. Bridge in the corner to the top. Swing right around the aréte onto a narrow ledge. Belay from an oak tree.
K. Coakley, pitch 1. K. Doyle, pitch 2. 01/06/2013
Two corners, divided by a sloping shelf above a short vertical wall.
1. Start as for Boru and scramble up an easy-angled rib to a pulpit-type ledge. Move left up a small rib of rock to a large ledge at the base of a vertical wall. This is "Shite Ledge". Climb the quartz corner on the right, traverse left to pull onto a sloping triangular ledge. (Variation: move left along the wall, gain a lower ledge, step up to the higher ledge) Belay here.
2. Climb the corner on the left over a small triangular flat slab. Move right , pull up and over to another sloping ledge at the base of the last corner (Variation: Move left and gain the ledge directly). This is 'Feckin Ants' ledge. Step onto the arête, using two small toe ledges to gain height. Move your feet back to the left face of the arête onto a upward trending narrow crack . Delicately edge up this to reach a good hold on the left wall above a small triangular alcove. Bridge in the corner to the top. Swing right around the aréte onto a narrow ledge. Belay from an oak tree.
K. Coakley, pitch 1. K. Doyle, pitch 2. 01/06/2013
Kevin Coakley & Ken Doyle 01/Jun/2013.
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Route of Interest
Spillikin-Fanfare-Nightmare
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Glendalough (Ireland))