95m, 3 pitches.
The furthermost left bolted line from the Cyclops section of newly bolted routes. (not in the guidebook)
A wonderful route - the first pitch meanders past all difficulty, whilst the remaining pitches ascend more directly.
1. 35mtr F3 Start 10mtr L of ‘Bombs Over Baghdad’. A 2 move pinch problem gains a ramp heading R. The 1st bolt is head height on this ramp. A step R past a small void is protected by a high second bolt (unseen overhead, till about to make the step). Up the steepening main gully, leads to a traverse R to escape past the arête, protected by a bolt. Bolt anchors
2. 30mtr F3 Continue up gully past 2 bolts on L. Then head for a 20cm ledge 5mtr above that 2nd bolt, across gully, where a blind horizontal bolt awaits on the face. You will see the chain anchor of WMD on the R, but head up a crack to a large ledge, and steep move on broken rock. A high bolt protects this move, and the rock gets better rapidly. The next bolt is unseen, just head for the L hand line where one bolt is visible. Bolt anchor 15mtr above.
3. 30mtr F3+ Stay on the obvious rib until the more solid face above. Option A: Once on the face stay to the R of widely spaced bolts until penultimate move. Head for a big square block above, with bolt anchors (there’s a visible tree 10mtr above these anchors). Option B: more challenging at F4. Pitch is 32mtr, stay to the L of the same bolts, taking the easy overhangs on the face. A different (chain) anchor is slightly L and 2mtr above the 1st anchor (but 5mtr below the previously mentioned tree).
Descent: Abseil (anchors at 1 and double rope intervals).
A wonderful route - the first pitch meanders past all difficulty, whilst the remaining pitches ascend more directly.
1. 35mtr F3 Start 10mtr L of ‘Bombs Over Baghdad’. A 2 move pinch problem gains a ramp heading R. The 1st bolt is head height on this ramp. A step R past a small void is protected by a high second bolt (unseen overhead, till about to make the step). Up the steepening main gully, leads to a traverse R to escape past the arête, protected by a bolt. Bolt anchors
2. 30mtr F3 Continue up gully past 2 bolts on L. Then head for a 20cm ledge 5mtr above that 2nd bolt, across gully, where a blind horizontal bolt awaits on the face. You will see the chain anchor of WMD on the R, but head up a crack to a large ledge, and steep move on broken rock. A high bolt protects this move, and the rock gets better rapidly. The next bolt is unseen, just head for the L hand line where one bolt is visible. Bolt anchor 15mtr above.
3. 30mtr F3+ Stay on the obvious rib until the more solid face above. Option A: Once on the face stay to the R of widely spaced bolts until penultimate move. Head for a big square block above, with bolt anchors (there’s a visible tree 10mtr above these anchors). Option B: more challenging at F4. Pitch is 32mtr, stay to the L of the same bolts, taking the easy overhangs on the face. A different (chain) anchor is slightly L and 2mtr above the 1st anchor (but 5mtr below the previously mentioned tree).
Descent: Abseil (anchors at 1 and double rope intervals).
Ralph Heath 10/Apr/2010.
* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.
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