Double Criss** HVS 5a
[Double Criss, pitch 1, 2 kb]2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A good route, although testing and totally traditional in its second pitch.
1) 4b, 28m. Start just in from the arete and move up and left to gain the arete, follow it past a break and onto a ledge. Move right and climb the face/groove to the ledge. Large cams for the belay.
2) 5a, 8m. The monster crack above will eat you alive. Brute force and ignorance pay dividends, but so does a little old-fashioned off-width technique. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
Start up the left side of the arete moving towards centre of face to move past the right side of a holly bush to an impressive ledge. Belay. 2nd pitch (5m) leads up hard corner crack which is climbed by either grace or grunting. Take big gear plus some small cams.

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List.

Photo: Double Criss, pitch 1 © caradoc
Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 112 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

Hidden - AltLd - 12/Aug/15

nodwas - Lead - 16/May/15

foostu4 - AltLd O/S - 16/May/15

Top section was a bitch!
doughobbs - Lead dog - 04/Apr/15 with Antoinette Wintin

1st pitch was grim with little to no gear, probably warrants an easy hvs
a_mcmullan - AltLd O/S - 2015

First pitch cams are essential
a_mcmullan - AltLd O/S - 12/Oct/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/14

Chriswallis2 - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/14 with Anna

Good but tough start, particularly for the short, if you go direct up arete, rather than coming in from R: had to pop for the jugs. Significantly harder than the 4b given in guide. Crack on P2 climbed with a good deal more grunting than grace, though a fair bit of grazing to all the different body bits I inserted at various times!
Andy Clarke - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/14 with Johnny

Hidden - Solo O/S - 29/Jun/14

Hidden - Solo - 29/Jun/14

Dave Almond - AltLd O/S - 28/Jun/14 with Nicole Almond

remi_mcm - Lead - 22/Jun/14

First pitch is more like 5a
A Crook - AltLd - 03/May/14 with Neil Griffiths

NeilGriffiths - 03/May/14 with Adam

Alex Mason - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/14 with Tony Powell

Si - 2014

LRob - Lead O/S - 2014

mike mo - 2014

Allanfairfechan - 2014

jade Edwards Leaney - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/13 with Al

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/13

Michael Allday - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/13

Climbed a crack in the middle of the slab, quality. Top crack is fun
Rob Evans - Lead O/S - May/13

peter myers - Lead - May/13 with Simon Bennet

tim20 - 2013

horrible scary bottom pitch with run out on slippy quartze! fun top crack though
bwestwood - AltLd - 07/Aug/12 with Ben Smedley

martrin - AltLd - 20/Jun/12 with Sarah Kekus

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 05/May/12

Had a short rest on a cam half way up the second pitch great climb on a boiling hot day.
Jones_88 - Lead dog - 26/Mar/12

got my knee stuck in the top crack so had to rest on the rope to get it out. so handed the lead over to wyn so he could go for the onsite.
adam06 - 2nd - 25/Mar/12 with Wyn Jones

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Feb/12

Kirill - 2nd dog - 25/Feb/12 with Paul Bolton

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Jan/12

First pitch was rubbish, second pitch was dripping and greasy
jezb1 - 2nd - 13/Oct/11

Hidden - Lead - 02/Oct/11

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Oct/11

stevepotter - AltLd - 29/Aug/11 with ken

emmarowe - 2nd dog - 01/May/11 with ed mitchell

Steep bottom section probably warrants HVS!
edmitchell - Lead O/S - 01/May/11 with Emma Rowe

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead - 20/Feb/11

Lead second pitch; the slimy vagina of a crack spat me out on the first attempt. Decent route!
Tommy Cole - AltLd dog - 20/Feb/11 with Chris Carrol

chriscarroll - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/11 with Tommy Cole

Took 1st Section
Alex.M-M. - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/11

Awesome top pitch, steady if you like fist jams. Shame its over so fast. Wall climbing on the first pitch is also excellent
david morse - 29/Jan/11 with Chris+Tori

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Jan/11

Hidden - 2011

PAJames - 2011

PAJames - 2011

Julian Wedd - AltLd - 2011 with A. Brierley

Led both pitches.
stuaart - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/10 with Laura Middleton

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/10

Led P1
CharlotteJelleyman - AltLd - 30/Aug/10 with Helen Pitt

dan gibson - Solo O/S - 29/Jun/10

jossjones - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/10

tigertim - AltLd O/S - 30/May/10 with Tony Payne

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/May/10

Adam1973 - Lead O/S - 02/May/10 with Ann S

First pitch super, second pitch-crumbs!!!
Ann S - 2nd - 02/May/10 with Adam

first pitch stiff start - no gear - second pitch - just bloody minded
bob johnson - 2nd - 25/Apr/10 with Rich Ball

Glyn - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/10 with Amy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Mar/10

lead 2nd pitch - 'lovely' short but sweet jam crack. just like being on grit!
disturbed_one51 - AltLd - 07/Mar/10 with Matt (Ruths's friend)

metal arms - Lead O/S - 07/Feb/10

justin burgoyne - Lead O/S - 2010

Final corner crack with monumental grunting and zero grace. I led P1 which was great climbing, a little run out in places.
The Ivanator - AltLd O/S - 29/Oct/09 with Stewart

Little B - AltLd O/S - 10/Oct/09 with Adam

petegruf - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/09 with sarah a

Hidden - 2nd dog - 02/May/09

eagleopus - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/09 with Alys

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Mar/09

Hidden - Lead - 20/Feb/09

snakebite - AltLd O/S - 02/Nov/08 with Matt Reynolds

Led pitch 1.
cmsg - AltLd O/S - 18/Oct/08 with Claire Symes

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/08

jamie ward - AltLd O/S - 14/Aug/08 with Stuart Williams

samwisethebrave2 - 2nd - 05/May/08 with Tim Evans

popov86 - Lead - 24/Apr/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Feb/08

peter myers - Lead O/S - 2008 with Angela Boyson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Oct/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Oct/07

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Apr/07

mikelaing - 2007

fran04 - AltLd - 2007

deanroberts - Lead O/S - 2007

mikelaing - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/May/04

steve prior - Lead - Jul/03 with Andy C

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Mar/03

Mark Kemball - Lead - 16/Mar/03 with Rob Jarrett

John Kettle - Lead - 2003

Mark Riley - Lead O/S - Aug/02

kjbix - AltLd - 07/Jun/01 with Richard Beech

mikej - Lead - 10/Jul/98 with R

Marti999 - Lead O/S - Jun/97 with larry

pete_fewings - Lead O/S - 1997

timreynolds - AltLd - 22/Jun/95 with Ivan Key

Hidden - Lead - 08/Jun/95

Ched - Lead O/S - 1993 with Glanfor

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Sep/92

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1990

Geckoid did 1st pitch, I fell dramatically off top pitch. Geck then jammed up top pitch
Peakology - 2nd RP - 1990 with mod

nigehughes - AltLd - Apr/89 with Ian Merridith

michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 04/Apr/88 with pete roberts

Too windy.
mikej - AltLd dnf - 04/Sep/83 with Mike Byles

Mark Kemball - Solo - 30/Jul/77

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Sep/75

Mike Owen - Sep/75 with John Roberts

Hidden - 2nd - Jul/75

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
druss, runestone, gareth r

Total votes cast 69
hard E10 of 25
E10 of 25
easy E10 of 25
hard HVS0 of 25
HVS0 of 25
easy HVS1 of 25
hard VS12 of 25
VS12 of 25
easy VS0 of 25
hard 5b0 of 24
5b0 of 24
easy 5b1 of 24
hard 5a2 of 24
5a18 of 24
easy 5a2 of 24
hard 4c1 of 24
4c0 of 24
easy 4c0 of 24
3 Stars9 of 20
2 Stars7 of 20
1 Star4 of 20
0 Stars0 of 20
Bag of .....0 of 20
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean repeat
Clean RP