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Double Criss* VS 5a

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[Double Criss, pitch 1, 2 kb]2 pitches. Start up the left side of the arete moving towards centre of face to move past the right side of a holly bush to an impressive ledge. Belay. 2nd pitch (5m) leads up hard corner crack which is climbed by either grace or grunting. Take big gear plus some small cams.

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List.

Photo: Double Criss, pitch 1 © caradoc
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 100 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

Tough start, particularly for the short: had to pop for the jugs. Harder than the 4b given in guide. Crack on P2 climbed with a good deal more grunting than grace, though a fair bit of grazing to all the different body bits I inserted at various times!
Andy Clarke - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/14 with Johnny

Hidden - Solo O/S - 29/Jun/14

Dave Almond - AltLd O/S - 28/Jun/14 with Nicole Almond

remi_mcm - Lead - 22/Jun/14

First pitch is more like 5a
A Crook - AltLd - 03/May/14 with Neil Griffiths

NeilGriffiths - 03/May/14 with Adam

Alex Mason - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/14 with Tony Powell

Si - 2014

LRob - Lead O/S - 2014

mike mo - 2014

jade Edwards Leaney - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/13 with Al

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/13

Michael Allday - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/13

MIke led bottom pitch. I totally underestimated the offwidth crack on p2. its short but hard work, especially with my crap technique!
George_Surf - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/13 with Mike Allday

Climbed a crack in the middle of the slab, quality. Top crack is fun
Rob Evans - Lead O/S - May/13

peter myers - Lead - May/13 with Simon Bennet

tim20 - 2013

horrible scary bottom pitch with run out on slippy quartze! fun top crack though
bwestwood - AltLd - 07/Aug/12 with Ben Smedley

martrin - AltLd - 20/Jun/12 with Sarah Kekus

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 05/May/12

Had a short rest on a cam half way up the second pitch great climb on a boiling hot day.
Jones_88 - Lead dog - 26/Mar/12

got my knee stuck in the top crack so had to rest on the rope to get it out. so handed the lead over to wyn so he could go for the onsite.
adam06 - 2nd - 25/Mar/12 with Wyn Jones

Ant Man Bee - Lead O/S - 25/Feb/12 with Kirill Spiridonov

Kirill - 2nd dog - 25/Feb/12 with Paul Bolton

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Jan/12

First pitch was rubbish, second pitch was dripping and greasy
jezb1 - 2nd - 13/Oct/11

Hidden - Lead - 02/Oct/11

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Oct/11

stevepotter - AltLd - 29/Aug/11 with ken

emmarowe - 2nd dog - 01/May/11 with ed mitchell

Steep bottom section probably warrants HVS!
edmitchell - Lead O/S - 01/May/11 with Emma Rowe

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Apr/11

Lead both pitches. First is a little run out, but not bad. Second pitch was the best fight I've had in a long time! Really enjoyed jamming and scraping to the top. Shame it was so wet and slimy.
JezH - Lead - 20/Feb/11 with James BW

Lead second pitch; the slimy vagina of a crack spat me out on the first attempt. Decent route!
Tommy Cole - AltLd dog - 20/Feb/11 with Chris Carrol

chriscarroll - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/11 with Tommy Cole

Took 1st Section
Alex.M-M. - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/11

Awesome top pitch, steady if you like fist jams. Shame its over so fast. Wall climbing on the first pitch is also excellent
david morse - 29/Jan/11 with Chris+Tori

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Jan/11

Hidden - 2011

PAJames - 2011

PAJames - 2011

Julian Wedd - AltLd - 2011 with A. Brierley

Led both pitches.
stuaart - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/10 with Laura Middleton

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/10

Led P1
CharlotteJelleyman - AltLd - 30/Aug/10 with Helen Pitt

dan gibson - Solo O/S - 29/Jun/10

jossjones - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/10

tigertim - AltLd O/S - 30/May/10 with Tony Payne

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/May/10

Adam1973 - Lead O/S - 02/May/10 with Ann S

First pitch super, second pitch-crumbs!!!
Ann S - 2nd - 02/May/10 with Adam

first pitch stiff start - no gear - second pitch - just bloody minded
bob johnson - 2nd - 25/Apr/10 with Rich Ball

Glyn - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/10 with Amy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Mar/10

lead 2nd pitch - 'lovely' short but sweet jam crack. just like being on grit!
disturbed_one51 - AltLd - 07/Mar/10 with Matt (Ruths's friend)

metal arms - Lead O/S - 07/Feb/10

justin burgoyne - Lead O/S - 2010

Final corner crack with monumental grunting and zero grace. I led P1 which was great climbing, a little run out in places.
The Ivanator - AltLd O/S - 29/Oct/09 with Stewart

Little B - AltLd O/S - 10/Oct/09 with Adam

petegruf - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/09 with sarah a

Hidden - 2nd dog - 02/May/09

eagleopus - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/09 with Alys

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Mar/09

Hidden - Lead - 20/Feb/09

snakebite - AltLd O/S - 02/Nov/08 with Matt Reynolds

Led pitch 1.
cmsg - AltLd O/S - 18/Oct/08 with Claire Symes

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/08

jamie ward - AltLd O/S - 14/Aug/08 with Stuart Williams

samwisethebrave2 - 2nd - 05/May/08 with Tim Evans

popov86 - Lead - 24/Apr/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Feb/08

peter myers - Lead O/S - 2008 with Angela Boyson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Oct/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Oct/07

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Apr/07

mikelaing - 2007

fran04 - AltLd - 2007

deanroberts - Lead O/S - 2007

mikelaing - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/May/04

Mark Kemball - Lead - 16/Mar/03 with Rob Jarrett

John Kettle - Lead - 2003

Mark Riley - Lead O/S - Aug/02

kjbix - AltLd - 07/Jun/01 with Richard Beech

mikej - Lead - 10/Jul/98 with R

Marti999 - Lead O/S - Jun/97 with larry

pete_fewings - Lead O/S - 1997

timreynolds - AltLd - 22/Jun/95 with Ivan Key

Hidden - Lead - 08/Jun/95

Ched - Lead O/S - 1993 with Glanfor

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Sep/92

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1990

Geckoid did 1st pitch, I fell dramatically off top pitch. Geck then jammed up top pitch
Peakology - 2nd RP - 1990 with mod

nigehughes - AltLd - Apr/89 with Ian Merridith

michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 04/Apr/88 with pete roberts

Too windy.
mikej - AltLd dnf - 04/Sep/83 with Mike Byles

Mark Kemball - Solo - 30/Jul/77

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Sep/75

Mike Owen - Sep/75 with John Roberts

Hidden - 2nd - Jul/75

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
druss, runestone, gareth r, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 60
hard HVS0 of 22
HVS0 of 22
easy HVS1 of 22
hard VS9 of 22
VS12 of 22
easy VS0 of 22
hard HS0 of 22
HS0 of 22
easy HS0 of 22
hard 5b0 of 21
5b0 of 21
easy 5b1 of 21
hard 5a2 of 21
5a15 of 21
easy 5a2 of 21
hard 4c1 of 21
4c0 of 21
easy 4c0 of 21
3 Stars8 of 17
2 Stars5 of 17
1 Star4 of 17
0 Stars0 of 17
Bag of .....0 of 17
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Style of ascent

Soloed3 of 100 (3.0%)
Lead36 of 100 (36.0%)
Followed16 of 100 (16.0%)
Alt Leads34 of 100 (34.0%)
Unknown11 of 100 (11.0%)

'Climbed'44 of 100 (44.0%)
clean O/S48 of 100 (48.0%)
clean rpt1 of 100 (1.0%)
clean RP1 of 100 (1.0%)
dogged5 of 100 (5.0%)
dnf1 of 100 (1.0%)