Rockfax Description
A good route - testing and totally traditional on its second pitch.
1) 4b, 28m. Start just in from an arete. Move up and left to gain the arete, follow it past a break to a ledge. Move right and climb the face/groove to the ledge. Large cams for the belay.
2) 5a, 8m. The monster crack above will eat you alive. Brute force and ignorance work best, but so does a little old-fashioned off-width technique. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start up the left side of the arete moving towards centre of face to move past the right side of a holly bush to an impressive ledge. Belay. 2nd pitch (5m) leads up hard corner crack which is climbed by either grace or grunting. Take big gear plus some small cams.
North Wales Rock Graded List , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist
User | Date | Notes | ||
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paulinepavlova | 13 May, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Can use big cams ranging from size 3 blue to size 6 big green in the main crack. Can also put some smaller cams/ nuts around small purple cam/ green cam size in a hidden crack off to the left before the offwidth | ||
Show beta
βeta: Can use big cams ranging from size 3 blue to size 6 big green in the main crack. Can also put some smaller cams/ nuts around small purple cam/ green cam size in a hidden crack off to the left before the offwidth |
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Pete_Frost | 27 Aug, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Leave a large gold cam and a red cam for the belay. A Camalot 5 or 6 will protect the upper crux. The lower wall is fair at the grade, but protection is spaced and hard to place. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Leave a large gold cam and a red cam for the belay. A Camalot 5 or 6 will protect the upper crux. The lower wall is fair at the grade, but protection is spaced and hard to place. |
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Steve Long | 15 Jul, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: If you stick to the arete from the ground all the way, it's at least 4c, maybe 5a. | ||
Show beta
βeta: If you stick to the arete from the ground all the way, it's at least 4c, maybe 5a. |
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Grade: VS 5a ***
(Craig y Castell (Tremadog))