UKC

2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A good route - testing and totally traditional on its second pitch.
1) 4b, 28m. Start just in from an arete. Move up and left to gain the arete, follow it past a break to a ledge. Move right and climb the face/groove to the ledge. Large cams for the belay.
2) 5a, 8m. The monster crack above will eat you alive. Brute force and ignorance work best, but so does a little old-fashioned off-width technique. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start up the left side of the arete moving towards centre of face to move past the right side of a holly bush to an impressive ledge. Belay. 2nd pitch (5m) leads up hard corner crack which is climbed by either grace or grunting. Take big gear plus some small cams.

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
paulinepavlova 13 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Can use big cams ranging from size 3 blue to size 6 big green in the main crack. Can also put some smaller cams/ nuts around small purple cam/ green cam size in a hidden crack off to the left before the offwidth
Show beta
βeta: Can use big cams ranging from size 3 blue to size 6 big green in the main crack. Can also put some smaller cams/ nuts around small purple cam/ green cam size in a hidden crack off to the left before the offwidth
Pete_Frost 27 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Leave a large gold cam and a red cam for the belay. A Camalot 5 or 6 will protect the upper crux. The lower wall is fair at the grade, but protection is spaced and hard to place.
Show beta
βeta: Leave a large gold cam and a red cam for the belay. A Camalot 5 or 6 will protect the upper crux. The lower wall is fair at the grade, but protection is spaced and hard to place.
Steve Long 15 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: If you stick to the arete from the ground all the way, it's at least 4c, maybe 5a.
Show beta
βeta: If you stick to the arete from the ground all the way, it's at least 4c, maybe 5a.

Logged Ascents

206 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Craig y Clipiau (Moelwyns)

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 33 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 39
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 38
Votes cast 32
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Creagh Dhu Wall Direct

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Craig y Castell (Tremadog))

Loading Notifications...