A fine varied outing. Hoping for a relaxed final day of trip, based on guidebook description 'low in the grade.' Hmm. Can see why some think 4b, 5a, 5b, 5a. Exciting traverse pitch: seemed harder than similar situation on Tantalus to me - but I was feeling hot, tired & geriatric. Led P1 & 3+4.
Andy Clarke - AltLd O/S - 10/Sep/15 with Johnny
had to back off before last pitch, too dark!
tom jefferies - AltLd O/S - 09/Sep/15 with dan hobbs
Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/15
Vegetation on pitch 4.
VPJB - Lead - 14/Aug/15 with Lloyd
If the traverse pitch is 5a then I'm Johnny Dawes. Harder than a lot of E1s although the gear is OK, as I know from experience…..
Postmanpat - AltLd dog - 12/Aug/15
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/15
rushy11111918 - AltLd - 30/Jul/15 with David
rob.grafton - AltLd - 25/Jul/15 with Jo Sunderland, Martin Smith
Interesting p3 and 5
benkelsey - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/15 with Ollie birkhill
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Jun/15
Gustav - AltLd O/S - 07/Jun/15 with Matt G
Only first two pitches then rained off
Dan Vaj - Lead O/S - 27/May/15 with Khalid
Abseiled off after pitch 2 because of the rain, just like last time.
khalidq - 2nd dnf - 27/May/15 with Dan Vajzovic
Hidden - AltLd dog - 23/May/15
Mark Grist - AltLd O/S - 25/Apr/15 with Paul Tanton
PaulTanton - AltLd O/S - 25/Apr/15 with Mark Grist
SAF - 2nd - 20/Apr/15 with Phil
Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/15
Dan724 - Lead O/S - 10/Mar/15 with Dan Jones
r.greaves - AltLd - 30/Nov/14 with neil
natlavender - 2nd dog - 16/Nov/14 with Brian Mead
P1,3,5. Crux pitch was wet which was 'fun'. Good route, just don't expect long pitches.
Matthew Ferrier - AltLd O/S - 12/Oct/14 with Fran
Lead pitched 2 and 4. Pleasant climbing in general, a little overgrown in places though. Some seepage for added spice.
franhammond92 - AltLd O/S - 12/Oct/14 with Matt Ferrier
Also did merlin direct before this.
Ewan Russell - 2nd O/S - 28/Sep/14 with Sam(Tom's friend), Tom Nichols
DubyaJamesDubya - Lead O/S - Sep/14 with Andrew Bevan
will moy - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/14
Hidden - 2nd dog - 15/Aug/14
Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/14
Sol Armer - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/14
Hidden - 2nd - 07/Aug/14
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/14
P1+P3. P3 was nice and the top pitch is good. Lovely moves.
Ewano - AltLd O/S - 13/Jun/14 with Pete Danson
Hidden - AltLd - 13/Jun/14
Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/14
Came off the traverse, then got up and completed it. The old guide said to belay at a tree, so I went past Kyle looking for it, and ended up climbing the choss next to the 4th? pitch all the way to the belay :-(
paulerussell - 2nd dog - 18/Apr/14 with Kyle Pattinson
Pitch 3 is certainly harder than 5a.
TimJ - Lead - 11/Apr/14 with Dodi
kp64zl - Lead - Apr/14 with Paul OMC
davebrox - 2014
Si - 2014
michael burrows - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/13 with mike doyle
Have lead before but abbed off after crux. We did the top pitch this time which was worth while. Managed it all in my trainers.
jezb1 - 2nd - 24/Aug/13
Rob84 - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/13 with Rob Adie, Mel
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/13
Went off route and climbed 5b pitch of Petzl Logic. Paul was solid on the offwidth.
demarcation86 - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/13 with Paul
Very traditional, starts with a chimney and ends with an off-width. The finger traverse is exciting.
Pete_Frost - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/13
Led P2. How was this ever VS?? Traverse was tough.
woody0606 - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/13 with Pete
theomoore - AltLd RP - 06/Jun/13
start of 2nd pitch dodgy for grade, P3 clearly not VS 5a, lovely crack to finish with hidden surprise holds. HVS 5b due to P2 and 3
Little B - AltLd - 01/Jun/13 with Simon
Well... Interesting climb. HVS/easy E1 5b I suspect. Pitch 2 is probably touching 5a, Pitch 3 5b HVS/E1. The last pitch is brilliant, but harder than VS 4c. Great route that I suspect sees many epics and retreats due to being wrongly graded (still)
Simonfarfaraway - AltLd - 01/Jun/13 with Ben Francis
Bailed on the traverse - felt better when we found out it wasn't VS5a.
Louis Hume - Lead dnf - 29/May/13 with Oli
SteveM - Lead - 06/May/13 with Kat
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/May/13
kitkat78 - 2nd O/S - 06/May/13 with SteveM
MikeLeeds - AltLd O/S - 06/May/13 with Kevin Bowser
Led P2&4. Spent ages fortifying the middle of P2 but did it in the end. P3 was just brilliant, & climbed P4 like it was a proper offwidth, just for the practice. Bring on the chicken-wings!
NB Pixel - AltLd O/S - 20/Apr/13 with Megan
BenRyle - AltLd O/S - 03/Apr/13 with Dely
Abbed off after the 5a traverse. P2 damp.
jezb1 - Lead - 25/Mar/13
After several attempts finally completed the harder 5a pitch just to have to abseil down as it was too dark to continue...
Sol Armer - AltLd dnf - 17/Feb/13
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Feb/13
adie84 - 2013
Very vegetated and a bit discontinuoius. Definitely NOT worth two stars
edmitchell - Lead O/S - 27/Oct/12 with brmc members
Hidden - AltLd - 27/Oct/12
Hidden - AltLd - 07/Aug/12
roberts1234567890 - AltLd - 21/Jul/12 with dan abbatt
danJBA - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/12 with Matt Roberts
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/12
I thought this felt pretty tough for VS!
Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/12 with Steve Shenton
Hidden - Lead - 04/Jun/12
SJS - 2nd - 04/Jun/12 with Nick
Felt Soft at HVS,But a great wandering route.
Sam Simpson - AltLd O/S - 19/May/12 with Tom Doldon
Tom Doldon - AltLd O/S - 19/May/12 with sam simpson 48
guy757 - Lead - 28/Apr/12
Hidden - AltLd - 15/Apr/12
VS?? not in my opinion. should have been clean but i misread the sequence a bit and slipped at the start of the second pitch. good fun up the final crack.
arandall - Lead dog - 07/Apr/12 with Wendy Matthews
Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Mar/12
This gets Hvs in the new guide....which it is. Some Nice moves and well protected. A couple of small cams are useful.
Owain Llewelyn - Lead - 07/Feb/12 with Dad
Hidden - 2012
Hidden - 2012
Lenny - 2nd O/S - 19/Nov/11 with John, Phil .N
dan-8990 - AltLd - 04/Oct/11 with PR, NM
Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/11
khalidq - 2nd - 17/Sep/11 with John Tomlinson
i think this is what we did. chimney type of first picth then a nice pull over a small overhang to go right into a groove then a tree with a abseil bit there. abbed off from the tree
al123 - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/11 with alex
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/11
Led P1 then P3&4 run together. A very good route. Didn't think the traverse was too bad but p2 nearly as hard (5a?)
harold walmsley - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/11 with Colin Struthers
Katex - AltLd O/S - 05/Aug/11 with Will, Simon Edwards
Led p1, Andy led p2 (overhang variation) then i wimped out on p3 so Andy bailed me out after down-climbing, wasn't climbing well at all today
Blurgy319 - AltLd β - 09/Jul/11 with Andy Woolston
In Tremadog guide as VS4c, complete sandbag at that grade. lead pitch 1, backed off pitch 3 for partner to take over, lead pitch 4.
Simon Cahill - AltLd - 08/Jun/11 with David
A very testing route in hot and sweaty conditions! Def HVS as in new guide book & not VS! I led second & third pitches. Ben led 1st & 4th. My hand slipped on second pitch & nearly took a huge barn-door fall. Couldn't get enough chalk on to make the traverse comfortably! Spent time fixing average gear and working moves before committing. Ben's final pitch was also tough. A big route - high in the grade when hot and a little dirty in places - a good adventure up the crag though and a good final route for our few days of climbing in Wales!
carlh - 04/Jun/11
guido led all but the first pitch. pitch 2 has a hard but really good move on it, pitch 3 felt much harder than 5a!
pebbles - 2nd - 29/May/11 with guido
DOVEY - Lead - 12/May/11 with Loz / Maker
Backed off the 3rd pitch cos it was sopping wet.
HIGHTOWER - Lead dnf - 02/Apr/11 with Nikki
Hidden - 2011
Rory Shaw - 2011
PAJames - 2011
crag_monster - AltLd - 16/Oct/10 with Leo, murphydave
i got the traverse pitch, rockfax book has the route at VS! HVS much more appropriate..
rustaldo - AltLd O/S - 13/Oct/10 with Alasadair
Worth doing even if pitch 1 is offputting. 4c pitches have interest and pitch 3 traverse is well protected but strenuous - more like 5b than 5a
uphillnow - AltLd - 10/Oct/10 with Rik
popov86 - May/10
popov86 - Lead - May/10
Hidden - AltLd dog - 27/Mar/10
dan-8990 - AltLd O/S - 08/Mar/10 with PB
beeson_paul - AltLd - 06/Mar/10
simeclimb68 - 2010
tough little cookie
sdawson1 - 2010 with Vic Belshaw
alasdair19 - 2010
Hidden - AltLd dnf - 26/Sep/09
tough climb and varied ...a gem
sdawson1 - AltLd - 15/Jul/09 with Martin
This is the hardest VS 5a I've ever done in my life. I'm not surprised if someone wants to grade it E1.
Skinny Kin - AltLd dog - 27/Jun/09 with Nick Steen, Trevor Langhorne
Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/09
Wayne S - 2009 with Jon Croxford
Hidden - AltLd rpt - 21/Sep/08
I found the hand traverse on second not so bad. With the in-situ peg about 1 foot above my head, and the positive 1 inch ledge running half the length of the traverse at my chin, I stepped from a block hole on the left to the a ledge below the crack on the right, then stepped again round the arete.
Final pitch was a bugger tho! Bridging initially with good nuts on the left, I then leg jammed the wide crack. this turned into a body jam, and squirmed my way up and out, ripping my trouserinthe process. I can never climb chimneys like this with any style!
Karlos - AltLd O/S - 21/Sep/08 with Mark B
Hidden - AltLd - 20/Sep/08
Well what an EPIC!! 1) Slippery slab and chimney VS 4b 2) HVS 5a at least thin on gear and wet 3)Unprotectable 5b traverse more like E1 followed by chossy unprotected climbing upto tree. 4)Awkward strenuose climbing HVS 5b at least. BEWARE VS leaders!!!
jamie ward - AltLd O/S - 13/Aug/08 with Stuart Williams
rob1 - AltLd - 10/Aug/08 with Dave Williams
Glyn - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/08 with Trystan
paulpitcher - AltLd O/S - 2008 with Deiter and Angela
paulpitchermp - AltLd - 2008
Hidden - AltLd dnf - 02/Nov/07
Led final 4b pitch in big boots.
Andrew Sloan - AltLd O/S - 30/Sep/07 with Steve Grove
Dan 85 - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/07 with Jonny
peter myers - AltLd O/S - Jun/07 with Tom Sylvester
Mick B - AltLd O/S - 05/May/07 with Matt Brennen
Hidden - 2nd dnf - 21/Apr/07
AngelaC - AltLd - 04/Apr/07 with Dieter Cole
Horrible route in the wet. We abbed off after the first two pitches as the crag was running with water.
climbingpixie - AltLd dnf - 10/Mar/07 with Shaun
Wayne S - 2007
way harder especially when wet more like HVS 5b especially third pitch
tumbling wizard - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/06
sgl0jd - AltLd - Jul/06 with Steve Hobbs
Backed off pitch 3 on traverse bit and then seconded it,hard to route find on this one for 2 pitch.
ritchierich - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/06 with Phil Taggart
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/May/06
Ed Booth - AltLd - 29/May/06 with remus
Hidden - 2006
mikelaing - 2nd - Nov/05
Hidden - AltLd - Apr/05
babymoac - 23/Nov/03
Hammy - AltLd - 06/Sep/03 with Joe Gittens
John Kettle - AltLd - 2003
Hidden - AltLd - 2003
Great route. I led P1,3,4. Probably worth HVS, and would get the traffic it deserves if it was graded this way.
Siderunner - Lead β - 04/May/02 with Pete D
Led in Trainers! Well, 5.10 Tennies! Thought it was VS, and ok at that. Led it again 10 years later, bloody desperate!!
Just Another Dave - Lead O/S - 2001 with Chris Bird
chrishedgehog - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/00 with Joe Thompson
zero six - Lead O/S - 2000
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1999
Ched - Lead O/S - 1997 with Glanfor
Hidden - AltLd - 11/Jun/95
Hidden - Lead - 30/Apr/94
Hidden - Lead - 1993
Hidden - AltLd - 27/Jun/92
Hidden - AltLd - 1990
ewar woowar - 1987
nigehughes - AltLd - Jun/83 with Ian Maguire
Paula Hamilton-Gibson - Lead - Jun/83 with Phillippa Mathews
GordonHart - Lead O/S - 1982
Hidden - Lead - 09/Apr/80
Ghastly Rubberfeet - Solo - 1980
Hidden - 1980
Hidden - 1978
RichardMc - Lead - 02/May/76 with Dave Langmead
steve L - AltLd O/S - 25/Feb/76 with sharpie
RichardMc - 2nd - 12/Sep/75 with Roger Everett
Hidden - AltLd - 23/Aug/75
petemeads - Lead - 1975
granitbahn - AltLd - 1975
rogerskews - 04/Jul/73 with Keith Jenkins
RichardMc - AltLd - 10/Jun/73 with Alastair Gordon
tapley - AltLd - 04/Jun/71 with Dave Hearnshaw
mikej - AltLd - 26/May/70 with Jerry Young
Hidden - Lead - 26/Jun/66