Nifl-Heim** HVS 5a
64m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
This makes the most of the left-hand side of the buttress. Start below a chimney.
1) 4a, 12m. Climb the large chimney-groove past some alpine-esque blocks to gain a good ledge.
2) 4c, 15m. From the far left side of the ledge gain a right trending ramp-line (steep at first) and continue to a good tree belay.
3) 5a, 12m. Pad up the slab on the right to gain a steep blocky section and a junction with other routes. Climb up to an overlap and stride left, passing an old peg, to gain a breath-taking horizontal traverse on positive finger-slots. Follow these to a tree on the left.
4) 4c, 12m. Easy ground leads to a thin crack which is followed to a ledge and tree.
5) 4c, 12m. Climb the large off-width crack on the right. Luckily a parallel crack on the left takes normal sized nuts. © ROCKFAX

H Banner + E Baldwin 27/Sep/1955

Ticklists: Enigmatic Affection: The Dark Art of Chimneying.

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This climb is in 170 logbooks, and on 10 wishlists.

A fine varied outing. Hoping for a relaxed final day of trip, based on guidebook description 'low in the grade.' Hmm. Can see why some think 4b, 5a, 5b, 5a. Exciting traverse pitch: seemed harder than similar situation on Tantalus to me - but I was feeling hot, tired & geriatric. Led P1 & 3+4.
Andy Clarke - AltLd O/S - 10/Sep/15 with Johnny

had to back off before last pitch, too dark!
tom jefferies - AltLd O/S - 09/Sep/15 with dan hobbs

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/15

Vegetation on pitch 4.
VPJB - Lead - 14/Aug/15 with Lloyd

If the traverse pitch is 5a then I'm Johnny Dawes. Harder than a lot of E1s although the gear is OK, as I know from experience…..
Postmanpat - AltLd dog - 12/Aug/15

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/15

rushy11111918 - AltLd - 30/Jul/15 with David

rob.grafton - AltLd - 25/Jul/15 with Jo Sunderland, Martin Smith

Interesting p3 and 5
benkelsey - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/15 with Ollie birkhill

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Jun/15

Gustav - AltLd O/S - 07/Jun/15 with Matt G

Only first two pitches then rained off
Dan Vaj - Lead O/S - 27/May/15 with Khalid

Abseiled off after pitch 2 because of the rain, just like last time.
khalidq - 2nd dnf - 27/May/15 with Dan Vajzovic

Hidden - AltLd dog - 23/May/15

Mark Grist - AltLd O/S - 25/Apr/15 with Paul Tanton

PaulTanton - AltLd O/S - 25/Apr/15 with Mark Grist

SAF - 2nd - 20/Apr/15 with Phil

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/15

Dan724 - Lead O/S - 10/Mar/15 with Dan Jones

r.greaves - AltLd - 30/Nov/14 with neil

natlavender - 2nd dog - 16/Nov/14 with Brian Mead

P1,3,5. Crux pitch was wet which was 'fun'. Good route, just don't expect long pitches.
Matthew Ferrier - AltLd O/S - 12/Oct/14 with Fran

Lead pitched 2 and 4. Pleasant climbing in general, a little overgrown in places though. Some seepage for added spice.
franhammond92 - AltLd O/S - 12/Oct/14 with Matt Ferrier

Also did merlin direct before this.
Ewan Russell - 2nd O/S - 28/Sep/14 with Sam(Tom's friend), Tom Nichols

DubyaJamesDubya - Lead O/S - Sep/14 with Andrew Bevan

will moy - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/14

Hidden - 2nd dog - 15/Aug/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/14

Sol Armer - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/14

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Aug/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/14

P1+P3. P3 was nice and the top pitch is good. Lovely moves.
Ewano - AltLd O/S - 13/Jun/14 with Pete Danson

Hidden - AltLd - 13/Jun/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/14

Came off the traverse, then got up and completed it. The old guide said to belay at a tree, so I went past Kyle looking for it, and ended up climbing the choss next to the 4th? pitch all the way to the belay :-(
paulerussell - 2nd dog - 18/Apr/14 with Kyle Pattinson

Pitch 3 is certainly harder than 5a.
TimJ - Lead - 11/Apr/14 with Dodi

kp64zl - Lead - Apr/14 with Paul OMC

davebrox - 2014

Si - 2014

michael burrows - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/13 with mike doyle

Have lead before but abbed off after crux. We did the top pitch this time which was worth while. Managed it all in my trainers.
jezb1 - 2nd - 24/Aug/13

Rob84 - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/13 with Rob Adie, Mel

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/13

Went off route and climbed 5b pitch of Petzl Logic. Paul was solid on the offwidth.
demarcation86 - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/13 with Paul

Very traditional, starts with a chimney and ends with an off-width. The finger traverse is exciting.
Pete_Frost - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/13

Led P2. How was this ever VS?? Traverse was tough.
woody0606 - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/13 with Pete

theomoore - AltLd RP - 06/Jun/13

start of 2nd pitch dodgy for grade, P3 clearly not VS 5a, lovely crack to finish with hidden surprise holds. HVS 5b due to P2 and 3
Little B - AltLd - 01/Jun/13 with Simon

Well... Interesting climb. HVS/easy E1 5b I suspect. Pitch 2 is probably touching 5a, Pitch 3 5b HVS/E1. The last pitch is brilliant, but harder than VS 4c. Great route that I suspect sees many epics and retreats due to being wrongly graded (still)
Simonfarfaraway - AltLd - 01/Jun/13 with Ben Francis

Bailed on the traverse - felt better when we found out it wasn't VS5a.
Louis Hume - Lead dnf - 29/May/13 with Oli

SteveM - Lead - 06/May/13 with Kat

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/May/13

kitkat78 - 2nd O/S - 06/May/13 with SteveM

MikeLeeds - AltLd O/S - 06/May/13 with Kevin Bowser

Led P2&4. Spent ages fortifying the middle of P2 but did it in the end. P3 was just brilliant, & climbed P4 like it was a proper offwidth, just for the practice. Bring on the chicken-wings!
NB Pixel - AltLd O/S - 20/Apr/13 with Megan

BenRyle - AltLd O/S - 03/Apr/13 with Dely

Abbed off after the 5a traverse. P2 damp.
jezb1 - Lead - 25/Mar/13

After several attempts finally completed the harder 5a pitch just to have to abseil down as it was too dark to continue...
Sol Armer - AltLd dnf - 17/Feb/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Feb/13

adie84 - 2013

Very vegetated and a bit discontinuoius. Definitely NOT worth two stars
edmitchell - Lead O/S - 27/Oct/12 with brmc members

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Oct/12

Hidden - AltLd - 07/Aug/12

roberts1234567890 - AltLd - 21/Jul/12 with dan abbatt

danJBA - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/12 with Matt Roberts

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/12

I thought this felt pretty tough for VS!
Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/12 with Steve Shenton

Hidden - Lead - 04/Jun/12

SJS - 2nd - 04/Jun/12 with Nick

Felt Soft at HVS,But a great wandering route.
Sam Simpson - AltLd O/S - 19/May/12 with Tom Doldon

Tom Doldon - AltLd O/S - 19/May/12 with sam simpson 48

guy757 - Lead - 28/Apr/12

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Apr/12

VS?? not in my opinion. should have been clean but i misread the sequence a bit and slipped at the start of the second pitch. good fun up the final crack.
arandall - Lead dog - 07/Apr/12 with Wendy Matthews

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Mar/12

This gets Hvs in the new guide....which it is. Some Nice moves and well protected. A couple of small cams are useful.
Owain Llewelyn - Lead - 07/Feb/12 with Dad

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Lenny - 2nd O/S - 19/Nov/11 with John, Phil .N

dan-8990 - AltLd - 04/Oct/11 with PR, NM

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/11

khalidq - 2nd - 17/Sep/11 with John Tomlinson

i think this is what we did. chimney type of first picth then a nice pull over a small overhang to go right into a groove then a tree with a abseil bit there. abbed off from the tree
al123 - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/11 with alex

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/11

Led P1 then P3&4 run together. A very good route. Didn't think the traverse was too bad but p2 nearly as hard (5a?)
harold walmsley - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/11 with Colin Struthers

Katex - AltLd O/S - 05/Aug/11 with Will, Simon Edwards

Led p1, Andy led p2 (overhang variation) then i wimped out on p3 so Andy bailed me out after down-climbing, wasn't climbing well at all today
Blurgy319 - AltLd β - 09/Jul/11 with Andy Woolston

In Tremadog guide as VS4c, complete sandbag at that grade. lead pitch 1, backed off pitch 3 for partner to take over, lead pitch 4.
Simon Cahill - AltLd - 08/Jun/11 with David

A very testing route in hot and sweaty conditions! Def HVS as in new guide book & not VS! I led second & third pitches. Ben led 1st & 4th. My hand slipped on second pitch & nearly took a huge barn-door fall. Couldn't get enough chalk on to make the traverse comfortably! Spent time fixing average gear and working moves before committing. Ben's final pitch was also tough. A big route - high in the grade when hot and a little dirty in places - a good adventure up the crag though and a good final route for our few days of climbing in Wales!
carlh - 04/Jun/11

guido led all but the first pitch. pitch 2 has a hard but really good move on it, pitch 3 felt much harder than 5a!
pebbles - 2nd - 29/May/11 with guido

DOVEY - Lead - 12/May/11 with Loz / Maker

Backed off the 3rd pitch cos it was sopping wet.
HIGHTOWER - Lead dnf - 02/Apr/11 with Nikki

Hidden - 2011

Rory Shaw - 2011

PAJames - 2011

crag_monster - AltLd - 16/Oct/10 with Leo, murphydave

i got the traverse pitch, rockfax book has the route at VS! HVS much more appropriate..
rustaldo - AltLd O/S - 13/Oct/10 with Alasadair

Worth doing even if pitch 1 is offputting. 4c pitches have interest and pitch 3 traverse is well protected but strenuous - more like 5b than 5a
uphillnow - AltLd - 10/Oct/10 with Rik

popov86 - May/10

popov86 - Lead - May/10

Hidden - AltLd dog - 27/Mar/10

dan-8990 - AltLd O/S - 08/Mar/10 with PB

beeson_paul - AltLd - 06/Mar/10

simeclimb68 - 2010

tough little cookie
sdawson1 - 2010 with Vic Belshaw

alasdair19 - 2010

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 26/Sep/09

tough climb and varied ...a gem
sdawson1 - AltLd - 15/Jul/09 with Martin

This is the hardest VS 5a I've ever done in my life. I'm not surprised if someone wants to grade it E1.
Skinny Kin - AltLd dog - 27/Jun/09 with Nick Steen, Trevor Langhorne

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/09

Wayne S - 2009 with Jon Croxford

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 21/Sep/08

I found the hand traverse on second not so bad. With the in-situ peg about 1 foot above my head, and the positive 1 inch ledge running half the length of the traverse at my chin, I stepped from a block hole on the left to the a ledge below the crack on the right, then stepped again round the arete. Final pitch was a bugger tho! Bridging initially with good nuts on the left, I then leg jammed the wide crack. this turned into a body jam, and squirmed my way up and out, ripping my trouserinthe process. I can never climb chimneys like this with any style!
Karlos - AltLd O/S - 21/Sep/08 with Mark B

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Sep/08

Well what an EPIC!! 1) Slippery slab and chimney VS 4b 2) HVS 5a at least thin on gear and wet 3)Unprotectable 5b traverse more like E1 followed by chossy unprotected climbing upto tree. 4)Awkward strenuose climbing HVS 5b at least. BEWARE VS leaders!!!
jamie ward - AltLd O/S - 13/Aug/08 with Stuart Williams

rob1 - AltLd - 10/Aug/08 with Dave Williams

Glyn - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/08 with Trystan

paulpitcher - AltLd O/S - 2008 with Deiter and Angela

paulpitchermp - AltLd - 2008

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 02/Nov/07

Led final 4b pitch in big boots.
Andrew Sloan - AltLd O/S - 30/Sep/07 with Steve Grove

Dan 85 - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/07 with Jonny

peter myers - AltLd O/S - Jun/07 with Tom Sylvester

Mick B - AltLd O/S - 05/May/07 with Matt Brennen

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 21/Apr/07

AngelaC - AltLd - 04/Apr/07 with Dieter Cole

Horrible route in the wet. We abbed off after the first two pitches as the crag was running with water.
climbingpixie - AltLd dnf - 10/Mar/07 with Shaun

Wayne S - 2007

way harder especially when wet more like HVS 5b especially third pitch
tumbling wizard - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/06

sgl0jd - AltLd - Jul/06 with Steve Hobbs

Backed off pitch 3 on traverse bit and then seconded it,hard to route find on this one for 2 pitch.
ritchierich - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/06 with Phil Taggart

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/May/06

Ed Booth - AltLd - 29/May/06 with remus

Hidden - 2006

mikelaing - 2nd - Nov/05

Hidden - AltLd - Apr/05

babymoac - 23/Nov/03

Hammy - AltLd - 06/Sep/03 with Joe Gittens

John Kettle - AltLd - 2003

Hidden - AltLd - 2003

Great route. I led P1,3,4. Probably worth HVS, and would get the traffic it deserves if it was graded this way.
Siderunner - Lead β - 04/May/02 with Pete D

Led in Trainers! Well, 5.10 Tennies! Thought it was VS, and ok at that. Led it again 10 years later, bloody desperate!!
Just Another Dave - Lead O/S - 2001 with Chris Bird

chrishedgehog - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/00 with Joe Thompson

zero six - Lead O/S - 2000

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1999

Ched - Lead O/S - 1997 with Glanfor

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Jun/95

Hidden - Lead - 30/Apr/94

Hidden - Lead - 1993

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Jun/92

Hidden - AltLd - 1990

ewar woowar - 1987

nigehughes - AltLd - Jun/83 with Ian Maguire

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - Lead - Jun/83 with Phillippa Mathews

GordonHart - Lead O/S - 1982

Hidden - Lead - 09/Apr/80

Ghastly Rubberfeet - Solo - 1980

Hidden - 1980

Hidden - 1978

RichardMc - Lead - 02/May/76 with Dave Langmead

steve L - AltLd O/S - 25/Feb/76 with sharpie

RichardMc - 2nd - 12/Sep/75 with Roger Everett

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Aug/75

petemeads - Lead - 1975

granitbahn - AltLd - 1975

rogerskews - 04/Jul/73 with Keith Jenkins

RichardMc - AltLd - 10/Jun/73 with Alastair Gordon

tapley - AltLd - 04/Jun/71 with Dave Hearnshaw

mikej - AltLd - 26/May/70 with Jerry Young

Hidden - Lead - 26/Jun/66

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Gareth T, vix, EyebrowTom, hedgehog77

Total votes cast 117
hard E10 of 29
E12 of 29
easy E110 of 29
hard HVS5 of 29
HVS6 of 29
easy HVS4 of 29
hard VS1 of 29
VS1 of 29
easy VS0 of 29
hard 5b0 of 46
5b6 of 46
easy 5b14 of 46
hard 5a15 of 46
5a9 of 46
easy 5a2 of 46
hard 4c0 of 46
4c0 of 46
easy 4c0 of 46
3 Stars1 of 42
2 Stars28 of 42
1 Star12 of 42
0 Stars1 of 42
Bag of .....0 of 42
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP