Gwynedd > Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog) >
 
Nifl-Heim** HVS 5a

Adjacent Climbs
<< Bashi Bazouk
 
Pizzle Puzzle >>
64m, 4 pitches. This makes the most of the left-hand side of the buttress. Start below a short chimney. 1) 4a, 12m. Climb the large chimney-groove past some alpine-esque blocks to gain a good ledge. 2) 4c, 15m. From the far left side of the ledge gain a right trending ramp-line (steep at first) and continue to a good tree-belay. 3) 5a, 12m. Pad up the slab on the right to gain a steep block-section and a junction with other routes. Climb up to an overlap and stride left, passing an old peg, to gain a breath-taking horizontal traverse on positive finger-slots. Follow these to a tree on the left. 4) 4a, 12m. Easy ground leads to a thin crack which is followed to a ledge and tree. 5) 4c, 12m. Climb the large off-width crack on the right. Luckily a parallel crack on the left takes normal sized nuts. © ROCKFAX
H Banner + E Baldwin 27/Sep/1955
Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 123 logbooks, and on 7 wishlists.

Pitch 3 is certainly harder than 5a.
TimJ - Lead - 11/Apr/14 with Dodi

kp64zl - Lead - Apr/14 with Paul OMC

michael burrows - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/13 with mike doyle

Have lead before but abbed off after crux. We did the top pitch this time which was worth while. Managed it all in my trainers.
jezb1 - 2nd - 24/Aug/13

Rob84 - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/13 with Rob Adie, Mel

Alex Riley - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/13 with Jasper

Went off route and climbed 5b pitch of Petzl Logic. Paul was solid on the offwidth.
demarcation86 - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/13 with Paul

Very traditional, starts with a chimney and ends with an off-width. The finger traverse is exciting.
Pete_Frost - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/13

Led P2. How was this ever VS?? Traverse was tough.
woody0606 - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/13 with Pete

theomoore - AltLd RP - 06/Jun/13

start of 2nd pitch dodgy for grade, P3 clearly not VS 5a, lovely crack to finish with hidden surprise holds. HVS 5b due to P2 and 3
Little B - AltLd - 01/Jun/13 with Simon

Well... Interesting climb. HVS/easy E1 5b I suspect. Pitch 2 is probably touching 5a, Pitch 3 5b HVS/E1. The last pitch is brilliant, but harder than VS 4c. Great route that I suspect sees many epics and retreats due to being wrongly graded (still)
Simonfarfaraway - AltLd - 01/Jun/13 with Ben Francis

Bailed on the traverse - felt better when we found out it wasn't VS5a.
Louis Hume - Lead dnf - 29/May/13 with Oli

SteveM - Lead - 06/May/13 with Kat

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/May/13

kitkat78 - 2nd O/S - 06/May/13 with SteveM

MikeLeeds - AltLd O/S - 06/May/13 with Kevin Bowser

Led P2&4. Spent ages fortifying the middle of P2 but did it in the end. P3 was just brilliant, & climbed P4 like it was a proper offwidth, just for the practice. Bring on the chicken-wings!
NB Pixel - AltLd O/S - 20/Apr/13 with Megan

BenRyle - AltLd O/S - 03/Apr/13 with Dely

Abbed off after the 5a traverse. P2 damp.
jezb1 - Lead - 25/Mar/13

After several attempts finally completed the harder 5a pitch just to have to abseil down as it was too dark to continue...
Sol Armer - AltLd dnf - 17/Feb/13

Brilliant weather. A good route. Worth the the grade. A shame it crosses so much vegetation, but it's still well worth doing. The second pitch felt hard and awkward for 4c, but it was very wet! The traverse is nice with the hardest part being deciding how to follow it! Great top pitch, two stars for that.
JezH - AltLd O/S - 17/Feb/13 with Ellie

Very vegetated and a bit discontinuoius. Definitely NOT worth two stars
edmitchell - Lead O/S - 27/Oct/12 with brmc members

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Oct/12

roberts1234567890 - AltLd - 21/Jul/12 with dan abbatt

danJBA - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/12 with Matt Roberts

max railing - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/12 with Luis

I thought this felt pretty tough for VS!
Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/12 with Steve Shenton

Hidden - Lead - 04/Jun/12

Felt Soft at HVS,But a great wandering route.
samsimpson - AltLd O/S - 19/May/12 with Tom Dolden

Tom Doldon - AltLd O/S - 19/May/12 with sam simpson 48

guy757 - Lead - 28/Apr/12

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Apr/12

VS?? not in my opinion. should have been clean but i misread the sequence a bit and slipped at the start of the second pitch. good fun up the final crack.
arandall - Lead dog - 07/Apr/12 with Wendy Matthews

Made the 5a pitch way too hard! And thought the 5c crack was the 4c crack, had to reverse, woops!
vertigo714 - Lead O/S - 06/Mar/12 with Will Molyneaux

This gets Hvs in the new guide....which it is. Some Nice moves and well protected. A couple of small cams are useful.
Owain Llewelyn - Lead - 07/Feb/12 with Dad

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Lenny - 2nd O/S - 19/Nov/11 with John, Phil .N

dan-8990 - AltLd - 04/Oct/11 with PR, NM

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/11

khalidq - 2nd - 17/Sep/11 with John Tomlinson

i think this is what we did. chimney type of first picth then a nice pull over a small overhang to go right into a groove then a tree with a abseil bit there. abbed off from the tree
al123 - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/11 with alex

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/11

Led P1 then P3&4 run together. A very good route. Didn't think the traverse was too bad but p2 nearly as hard (5a?)
harold walmsley - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/11 with Colin Struthers

Katex - AltLd O/S - 05/Aug/11 with Will, Simon Edwards

Led p1, Andy led p2 (overhang variation) then i wimped out on p3 so Andy bailed me out after down-climbing, wasn't climbing well at all today
Blurgy319 - AltLd β - 09/Jul/11 with Andy Woolston

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Jun/11

Hidden - 04/Jun/11

guido led all but the first pitch. pitch 2 has a hard but really good move on it, pitch 3 felt much harder than 5a!
pebbles - 2nd - 29/May/11 with guido

DOVEY - Lead - 12/May/11 with Loz / Maker

Backed off the 3rd pitch cos it was sopping wet.
HIGHTOWER - Lead dnf - 02/Apr/11 with Nikki

Hidden - 2011

Rory Shaw - 2011

PAJames - 2011

crag_monster - AltLd - 16/Oct/10 with Leo, murphydave

i got the traverse pitch, rockfax book has the route at VS! HVS much more appropriate..
rustaldo - AltLd O/S - 13/Oct/10 with Alasadair

Worth doing even if pitch 1 is offputting. 4c pitches have interest and pitch 3 traverse is well protected but strenuous - more like 5b than 5a
David Smith - AltLd - 10/Oct/10 with Rik

popov86 - May/10

popov86 - Lead - May/10

Hidden - AltLd dog - 27/Mar/10

dan-8990 - AltLd O/S - 08/Mar/10 with PB

beeson_paul - AltLd - 06/Mar/10

simeclimb68 - 2010

tough little cookie
sdawson1 - 2010 with Vic Belshaw

alasdair19 - 2010

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 26/Sep/09

tough climb and varied ...a gem
sdawson1 - AltLd - 15/Jul/09 with Martin

This is the hardest VS 5a I've ever done in my life. I'm not surprised if someone wants to grade it E1.
Skinny Kin - AltLd dog - 27/Jun/09 with Nick Steen, Trevor Langhorne

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/09

P2, P3DNF
Wayne S - 2009 with Jon Croxford

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 21/Sep/08

I found the hand traverse on second not so bad. With the in-situ peg about 1 foot above my head, and the positive 1 inch ledge running half the length of the traverse at my chin, I stepped from a block hole on the left to the a ledge below the crack on the right, then stepped again round the arete. Final pitch was a bugger tho! Bridging initially with good nuts on the left, I then leg jammed the wide crack. this turned into a body jam, and squirmed my way up and out, ripping my trouserinthe process. I can never climb chimneys like this with any style!
Karlos - AltLd O/S - 21/Sep/08 with Mark B

chalk monster - AltLd - 20/Sep/08 with Karl

Well what an EPIC!! 1) Slippery slab and chimney VS 4b 2) HVS 5a at least thin on gear and wet 3)Unprotectable 5b traverse more like E1 followed by chossy unprotected climbing upto tree. 4)Awkward strenuose climbing HVS 5b at least. BEWARE VS leaders!!!
jamie ward - AltLd O/S - 13/Aug/08 with Stuart Williams

rob1 - AltLd - 10/Aug/08 with Dave Williams

Glyn - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/08 with Trystan

paulpitcher - AltLd O/S - 2008 with Deiter and Angela

paulpitchermp - AltLd - 2008

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 02/Nov/07

Led final 4b pitch in big boots.
Andrew Sloan - AltLd O/S - 30/Sep/07 with Steve Grove

Dan 85 - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/07 with Jonny

peter myers - AltLd O/S - Jun/07 with Tom Sylvester

Mick B - AltLd O/S - 05/May/07 with Matt Brennen

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 21/Apr/07

Horrible route in the wet. We abbed off after the first two pitches as the crag was running with water.
climbingpixie - AltLd dnf - 10/Mar/07 with Shaun

Wayne S - 2007

way harder especially when wet more like HVS 5b especially third pitch
tumbling wizard - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/06

sgl0jd - AltLd - Jul/06 with Steve Hobbs

Backed off pitch 3 on traverse bit and then seconded it,hard to route find on this one for 2 pitch.
ritchierich - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/06 with Phil Taggart

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/May/06

Ed Booth - AltLd - 29/May/06 with remus

Hidden - 2006

mikelaing - 2nd - Nov/05

Hidden - AltLd - Apr/05

babymoac - 23/Nov/03

Hammy - AltLd - 06/Sep/03 with Joe Gittens

John Kettle - AltLd - 2003

Hidden - AltLd - 2003

Great route. I led P1,3,4. Probably worth HVS, and would get the traffic it deserves if it was graded this way.
Siderunner - Lead β - 04/May/02 with Pete D

Led in Trainers! Well, 5.10 Tennies! Thought it was VS, and ok at that. Led it again 10 years later, bloody desperate!!
Just Another Dave - Lead O/S - 2001 with Chris Bird

chrishedgehog - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/00 with Joe Thompson

zero six - Lead O/S - 2000

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1999

Ched - Lead O/S - 1997 with Glanfor

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Jun/95

Hidden - Lead - 30/Apr/94

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Jun/92

ewar woowar - 1987

nigehughes - AltLd - Jun/83 with Ian Maguire

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - Lead - Jun/83 with Phillippa Mathews

GordonHart - Lead O/S - 1982

Hidden - Lead - 09/Apr/80

Ghastly Rubberfeet - Solo - 1980

Hidden - 1980

Hidden - 1978

RichardMc - Lead - 02/May/76 with Dave Langmead

RichardMc - 2nd - 12/Sep/75 with Roger Everett

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Aug/75

petemeads - Lead - 1975

granitbahn - AltLd - 1975

rogerskews - 04/Jul/73 with Keith Jenkins

mikej - AltLd - 26/May/70 with Jerry Young

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Jeannie, Mike Nolan, hedgehog77, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 76
hard E10 of 15
E11 of 15
easy E14 of 15
hard HVS1 of 15
HVS5 of 15
easy HVS4 of 15
hard VS0 of 15
VS0 of 15
easy VS0 of 15
hard 5b0 of 32
5b2 of 32
easy 5b9 of 32
hard 5a12 of 32
5a8 of 32
easy 5a1 of 32
hard 4c0 of 32
4c0 of 32
easy 4c0 of 32
3 Stars1 of 29
2 Stars21 of 29
1 Star7 of 29
0 Stars0 of 29
Bag of .....0 of 29
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 123 (0.8%)
Lead33 of 123 (26.8%)
Followed8 of 123 (6.5%)
Alt Leads63 of 123 (51.2%)
Unknown18 of 123 (14.6%)

'Climbed'64 of 123 (52.0%)
clean O/S45 of 123 (36.6%)
clean β2 of 123 (1.6%)
clean rpt1 of 123 (0.8%)
clean RP1 of 123 (0.8%)
dogged3 of 123 (2.4%)
dnf7 of 123 (5.7%)