Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.
GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.
North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made.
All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.
Dates: 1 March to 15 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.
Peregrins nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pithes of left hand route (from the great ledge)
Rockfax Description
The first pitch is a bit earthy. Start just left of a small tree at ledges leading to a wide corner-crack.
1) 4b, 13m. Gain the crack at the top of the earthy ledges and bridge it to the midway ledge. Peg and nut belays.
2) 5b, 12m. Ascend the short wall to a ledge and move right to a slim corner. Climb the corner past a peg with difficulty to an overhang. Pass the overhang on the right and finish leftwards. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start right of Moth at the large crack. Bridge either side of this to the terrace. 2 peg belay. Move up to the ledge above (stuck micro nut and rusty peg). Move up with delicate feet past the peg to block and overhang (surmount on the right). Move easily to the top and block belays.
CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS) , Wye Valley Starred E1-E3
User | Date | Notes | ||
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mikedunk | 13 Jan, 2023 |
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βeta: Some loose bits and pieces getting into the initial groove | βeta? | |
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βeta: Some loose bits and pieces getting into the initial groove |
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BStar | 15 Apr, 2021 |
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βeta: Stuck micro wire has now been removed. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Stuck micro wire has now been removed. |
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Grade: E1 5c ***
(Shorn Cliff)