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North-West Gully** II/III

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North-West Gully - Direct Start >>
[Emily - first winter Route, 2 kb]The grade strongly depends on which forks are taken.

Ticklists: Great routes in the Coe.

Photo: Emily - first winter Route © stratandrew
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 42 logbooks, and on 9 wishlists.

Great neve on most of the route, snow very consolidated on the upper section towards the summit.
The Ghost Rider - AltLd - 15/Feb/14

Up and down right fork as far as the top ice pitch, which was a bit thin with little gear, a good route on a complex face.
Sankey - AltLd dnf - 11/Mar/13 with Ed

darrenasquith - AltLd - 02/Mar/13

mark12345 - 2nd - 25/Feb/13

Col Kingshott - Lead O/S - 24/Feb/13

JamesRoddie - Solo O/S - 24/Feb/13

GlennWatson - Solo - 23/Feb/13

As finish to Deep-Cut. Neve all the way with cheeky ice corner towards the end.
lawrenceK - AltLd - 22/Feb/13

Tricky powder snow so we deviated as much as poss onto turfy ribs. Upper section after left fork was all on the buttress seeking out harder moves. Helicopter appeared 2pm due to avalanche 500m away - 4 dead. Sobering day.
stratandrew - AltLd O/S - 19/Jan/13 with Steve Graham

Day of the avalanche that killed a group - 4? people - on Bidean nam Bian. Terrified. Sobering.
EmilyCreative - 19/Jan/13

DougSt - AltLd - 2013 with Al Brightman

Banked out so v.easy. Nice to be out in fairly rubbish weather though.
markfairbank - Solo O/S - 18/Feb/12 with Paul Sheehan, Dave Brown

Very wild conditions, so was n't expecting to climb anything. Fairly banked out with snow.
Mountain Llama - Solo - 18/Feb/12 with Mark F, Paul S

Deep Cut was a waterfall...
allyrocke - Solo O/S - 22/Jan/11 with Robbie

rcammack - Solo O/S - 22/Jan/11 with Alistair Rocke

Hidden - 2011

finos - 2nd O/S - 02/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead - 01/Mar/10

Avoided initial ice pitch by a long traverse left as it was thin, brittle and hacked about. Above, took left fork to finish up a nice little pitch of easy III on snow ice. II/III by the line I took.
Only a hill - Solo O/S - 22/Feb/10

Moved together for most of route with Dan in front. Took easiest line, missing out possible ice pitches due to poor conditions. I led last crux section as a pitch. Snow soft and wet due to mild conditions.
Ant Man Bee - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/10 with Dan Muldoon

Pete and Rich also did this at the same time.
Tony Holdsworth - AltLd O/S - 13/Feb/10 with Nick Mitchell

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Feb/10

used screw left by Nick and Tony on 1st pitch
Richie Rich - AltLd O/S - Feb/10 with Pete Colley

Not certain this was exact route. Climbed three ice pitches before ab'ing off abalakovs. Was closer to approach than Arch Gully which i believe was left of our climb.
Braintax - 2nd - Feb/10

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Jan/10

Hidden - 22/Apr/08

morsy - AltLd - 13/Apr/08 with gerhard mors/alan rodger

alan.rodger - 2nd - 13/Apr/08 with gerhard mors, stephan mors

Bit of an epic day on my first winter climbing experience. Originally went up to climb Arch Gully, but it wasnt in condition. So came back down from it and started on No. 4 butress route then changed over onto NW Gully. There were 3 of us so climbing was fairly slow and the leaders were finding it hard to find runner placements. We took the right fork that takes us up to the crux climb. Should have taken the left fork in retrospect. Got to the crux at about 7.30pm having spent about 7 hours on the route already. One of the guys led the crux in diminishing light then brought us up. It was dark by the time we got up. The clouds had come down as well so visibility wasnt great so we decided to use the ropes for the rest of the climb even though the guidebook says the ground is easier at this point. Eventually topped out at 11.30pm. Luckily the weather was ok and we managed to navigate off. We got back to the car at 2am. The mountain rescue were waiting at the car park for another couple that we'd met on the last pitch and had phoned them because they didnt know the way down. Hopefully my next winter climb wont be quite as long.
climberuk - 2nd β - 22/Mar/08 with 2

McGus - AltLd - 16/Mar/08 with Phil Amos

punj - AltLd - Mar/08 with john meechan

Captain Solo - Solo - 22/Jan/07

rob k - AltLd O/S - 01/Mar/06 with C Marsden

Hidden - 2004

lawrenceK - Solo - Jan/02

Tarquin - 1997

Hidden - Solo - 09/Mar/96

Hidden - Solo - Mar/96

CMacD - 1995

ChrisJD - Solo - 21/Feb/88

michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 17/Feb/87 with steve ward

Bruce Kerr - Solo - 19/Jan/80

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
arose, Hoyes, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, simonjkinsella, Phatman, Hidden, ckmoffat

Voting
Total votes cast 16
hard III0 of 9
III0 of 9
easy III2 of 9
hard II/III2 of 9
II/III3 of 9
easy II/III1 of 9
hard II1 of 9
II0 of 9
easy II0 of 9
3 Stars1 of 7
2 Stars5 of 7
1 Star1 of 7
0 Stars0 of 7
Bag of .....0 of 7
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Style of ascent

Soloed13 of 42 (31.0%)
Lead2 of 42 (4.8%)
Followed5 of 42 (11.9%)
Alt Leads16 of 42 (38.1%)
Unknown6 of 42 (14.3%)

'Climbed'27 of 42 (64.3%)
clean O/S13 of 42 (31.0%)
clean β1 of 42 (2.4%)
dnf1 of 42 (2.4%)