Restricted Access
The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.
Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
Interesting climbing on a slightly bold and wandering line. Begin below a pair of sticking out concretions, just left of where the approach meets the base of the crag. Head up the wall, passing the concretions, to a ledge at 7m on the left. Now ascend the wall (not leftwards) past a flake to another concretion. Traverse leftwards to the large tree. © Rockfax
Ticklists
Shorn Cliff HVS and E1 *'d Routes , Shorn cliff starred routes HVS-E1 according to guidebook , Wye Valley Starred E1-E3
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Becky Athay | 16 May, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: I certainly haven’t been climbing much this year, but found this route quite testing and brave for E1. I really didn’t want to take a fall at the second lot of concretions! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I certainly haven’t been climbing much this year, but found this route quite testing and brave for E1. I really didn’t want to take a fall at the second lot of concretions! |
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| Katsmiff | 6 May, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Gear was spaced and looked a bit shit. So falling would not be advised. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Gear was spaced and looked a bit shit. So falling would not be advised. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Shorn Cliff
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
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Wurlitzer
Grade: E1 5c ***
(Wintour's Leap)