The obvious polished shallow groove/finger crack.

Ticklists: Orange Spot Lower Wye, CUMC Ticklist, Shorn Cliff Nose, Ultimate HVS ticklist.

Doug miller 17/Oct Lead
Doug miller 17/Oct 2nd rpt
Hidden 17/Oct 2nd rpt
kirsten 10/Oct 2nd
with Mike, Tim
George Frisby 04/Oct 2nd O/S
steve_gibbs 03/Oct Lead O/S
mossrug 02/Oct Lead dog

Ouch!! Not my style - gruelling jams.

with Rob
caradoc 06/Sep Lead

Led to rescue Matt's gear. I didn't really fancy it, especially after Matt's struggles but it went OK. Tricky move at the top. Overall I think it is a straightforward climb with a few tiring moves.

with Matt H.
pearson9596 06/Sep Lead O/S

So polished it's hardly worth the stars.....

Tony Holdsworth 29/Aug Lead dnf
rurp 18/Aug -

HVS ha ha

with emma rowland, ben rowland, bill farmer
JoeE 02/Aug Lead O/S

Its not polished, try climbing at avon gorge! Despite this, it did feel like a battle with several crux moves. Awesome route, even better when you know how to jam :D

with Dave West
Stickle Tarn 26/Jul Lead O/S
tcn_2002 18/Jul Lead
C May 11/Jul 2nd


with Tim
Gareth T 11/Jul Lead dog

Defeated by rubber lacking shoes on polish

Longsufferingropeholder 11/Jul Lead rpt
with C May
Ravenonthewire 11/Jul 2nd O/S
with Stuart
Kate Hutchence 11/Jul 2nd
poeter210 04/Jul Lead dog

One rest, though a massive improvement over last years effort, top half is way more interesting when you're pumped silly from the bottom!

luke glaister 27/Jun Lead O/S

3*** brilliantNess when looking at the polish it make u think. O this is gunna be fun... but it never spoilt the climb I thought. First route of the day and I walked up it. Bridge when u can and place bomber gear. Loved it.

casey johns 27/Jun 2nd
danbirkby 26/Jun Lead rpt

Feet slipped off a smear with my hands on the finishing holds. Talked myself out of taking a dangerous looking lob (gear quite low). Phew.

with Adrian, Gordon
Luuuuuke 21/Jun Lead O/S
with martin
Egons Issy 21/Jun 2nd
with Kevin Vans-Colina
stpauliblade 21/Jun 2nd
EllieWoods 06/Jun 2nd O/S
with Tim
timreynolds 06/Jun Lead

Polished & Pumpy!

Neil Rigiani 06/Jun 2nd O/S

Tim's lead

with Ellie Woods, Tim Reynolds
bpmclimb 30/May Lead rpt

Still a great route, despite the polish.

with Kirsten
kirsten 30/May 2nd

Nails and polished (no pun intended) . Felt much harder than Side Effects (E1)

with Brian
katherinesydney 04/May 2nd dog
with neil morbey
rich H0001 ?/May Lead
Hidden 24/Apr Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Apr Lead rpt
martinlevya82 19/Apr Lead O/S
hutchay 18/Apr 2nd rpt
with Dave Clover
wilkinscl 12/Apr -
Lil_Pete 12/Apr Lead O/S

Bit exciting!

Kemics 12/Apr 2nd O/S

Harder than I remembered it. Used painful finger jam to pass the bulge.

with Pete, Corin
climbingpixie 05/Apr 2nd O/S
with Adam
Nick Arthur 22/Mar 2nd
Jack Porteous 22/Mar Lead
Hidden 22/Mar Lead O/S
Tom '14 22/Mar Lead dnf

First trad fall. Two of the three nuts came loose, top ( no.3 walnut) help. Scared the crap out of me.

s.thursz 22/Mar Lead
Hidden 15/Mar Lead rpt
jing 10/Jan 2nd dog

First Trad climb of the year. Messed up the last move. Mentally taxing. Must do better next time!!! :/

with Vince
Sarah Black 01/Nov/14 Lead O/S
LucasHarazin 12/Oct/14 2nd β
Hidden 12/Oct/14 Lead O/S
maddy92 21/Sep/14 Lead O/S
halfwaythere 16/Sep/14 Lead dog

Hard lead

with tom
Ash Sayers 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Legs 18/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Sachi
jsmcfarland 18/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Jumped on this as my warm up climb for the day (slightly optimistic?). Initial section is pumpy as hell because of the polish, I didn't trust a single hand or foothold for the first 5m it was that bad. Once past that the route gets easier the higher up it gets (seems to be a feature of this crag?). Gear was generally good. Ace route!

with Max
frank ramsay 17/Aug/14 Lead
with Aaron
Aaron Lines 17/Aug/14 2nd
Graeme Hammond 13/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Excellent. Thought the start was the hardest bit and the rest was good juggy crack climbing with perfect gear. Not as polished as people make out and certainly makes it no harder or detracts from the climbing.

with Becky E
alaster tonge 03/Aug/14 Lead dnf

Hard climb. Polished crack. My dog barked and barked when I was half way up and people arrived and stopped right next to us. We had had the cliff to ourselves all day at that point. Wished they had moved on, in a panic to let Assad calm the dog down, I rested on a nut that came out when the large flake it was behind moved a few mm. I fell about 9m and was just caught enough to hit the ground gently at the end of rope stretch. Teaches me to trust to minimal levels of protection on this kind of rock! The rock can move... I want to come back.

with Assad Lahlou
andy dunn ?/Aug/14 2nd
with J
jfletcher 31/Jul/14 Lead
with Family en masse
TomGB 26/Jul/14 2nd dnf
with Stewart Moody
TomGB 26/Jul/14 2nd RP

coulnd't get up this but came back to it 20 mins later after spotting a foothold I hadn't seen. Sustained with a difficult crux. Well led by Stew

with Stewart Moody
Ricky Rocks 21/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Nath Kitcher
Dave Thompson 21/Jul/14 2nd
Julie Carroll 21/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Dave Thompson
Curly Rich 13/Jul/14 Lead dog

Gutted 1 rest at about 4-5 metres

with gmc
bigbobbyking 13/Jul/14 2nd
Hidden 13/Jul/14 2nd β
Hidden 13/Jul/14 Lead O/S
felixizzy 12/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Awesome climb, sustained but bomber gear all the way up.

with Dan
Hidden 12/Jul/14 Lead β
cdpuk 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S
08nbrierley 14/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with jamie
Felix Ottey 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S
garywong 08/Jun/14 Lead O/S
julesmckim 08/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Good route, tricky start

with Rob Smart
poeter210 01/Jun/14 2nd dog
jrccrosby 18/May/14 Lead O/S

Had a really hard time on this one but Al breezed up it like spiderman, Harry couldn't hack it

with Alastair
Hidden 17/May/14 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/May/14 2nd O/S
tskelhon ?/May/14 Lead
clmacdonald ?/May/14 2nd
cvsephton 18/Apr/14 2nd dnf

All a bit polished and strenuous for me. Didn't get far off the bottom.

with Rob
K Wall 18/Apr/14 Lead

Nice route, quite sustained right to the last, but did not feel too polished to me.

with Martin
kivell 17/Apr/14 Lead
Dawlish 16/Apr/14 Lead dog
with neil
Stuart William 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Perfect jams and easier than I expected. Minor polish doesn't detract from the route at all.

with Pleb
Neil 12/Apr/14 Lead O/S
tobydunford 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Oli
Lazytraveller 24/Mar/14 Lead β

Really nice climb. Freaked out a little bit, but sorted it out

RichyBOYY 24/Mar/14 Lead O/S

What an inspiring route! so good, loved it!

jammy4536 24/Mar/14 TR O/S

Such an awesome climb. Definitely one to lead next time I'm down

jon_gill1 22/Mar/14 -

Clean Aid with free in trainers practice.great fun

with chris Lyness
JHC 16/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Great climb! Worth 3 stars

with Jena
Sam Watson 16/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Stunning line. Not too difficult but sustained in places and fun all the way.

with Pablo
Becky E ??/2014 2nd dog

Not a glittering performance. Fell off about half way up due to not seeing a jug. Then ran out of juice and couldn't top out.

Matt1234 08/Sep/13 Lead O/S
tomhull 04/Sep/13 Lead O/S

excellent if abit polished, possibly 5b

with Stephen Cumberland
James Oswald 27/Aug/13 Lead dog

Tough climbing up the groove, bad warm-up. I fell off twice, once stood at a rest and then on the crux. A poor effort!

panda70 27/Aug/13 2nd
TimKnight 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Dave Marshall
Anthony Dixon 24/Jul/13 Lead
Phil PBC 14/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with tom rogers, sarah jane d
gb05 09/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with James Matthews
BenFitzG ?/Jul/13 Lead
BenFitzG ?/Jul/13 Lead
spearing05 30/Jun/13 2nd β

Nice. Sustained, had me out of breath by the top. Another good lead by AF.

with Andrew
Hidden 30/Jun/13 Lead dog
Kirill 29/Jun/13 Lead RP

clean on second go

with Artyom Skrobov
angie 28/Jun/13 2nd dnf
Peter Lovell 28/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Kemics 23/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Finally ticked the first climb on wishlist! Very well protected, absolute sinker large/medium wires the whole way. Only used a few finger jams, more like sustained real crux and hardly polished except for one edge which was avoidable.

with Anthony
Nick Russell 09/Jun/13 2nd

Pretty sustained, but the gear's all there. Good if you like cracks!

kim.mulji 09/Jun/13 Lead dog

Hard - don't hang around - place gear or not, but keep moving!

albt 09/Jun/13 2nd O/S
SJS 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Nick
MarkCunnington 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Nicholas Lokuciewski, Anna Morris
Hidden 08/Jun/13 2nd dog
jon_gill1 08/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with ross garfoot
Anna Morris 08/Jun/13 2nd O/S
jiggerypokery 02/Jun/13 Lead β
Hidden 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Fiona McFarlane ?/Jun/13 2nd dog

Still dogged, but found it a lot more manageable than last time. Would consider leading it as it has excellent protection

stevorobs3 ?/Jun/13 Lead RP
with Xandra
Tom Brierley Gore 18/May/13 Lead O/S
with Nick Eaton, Shijing Hu
alastairbegley 07/May/13 2nd rpt

Much easier now I can jam!

wurzelinzummerset 05/May/13 2nd

A good route. Lots of 5a moves.

with Ric
bonelessivar 05/May/13 Lead O/S
with Alan
adam 24 ?/May/13 2nd
Giles Eperon 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with benedikt, adam poundall
onlyfoddington 07/Apr/13 2nd dog

Pumpy as hell.

with Adam
alooker ?/Apr/13 Lead
Ian JL ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Ed morris 27/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Jack keo, wildblood, chris irwin
Chris.Irwin 27/Oct/12 2nd dog
with Ed Morris
zcsharp 22/Sep/12 Lead β

Very, very pumpy, but i didn't do any jamming which i would guess makes it less pumpy. Also i didn't notice the polish at all.

with John Bennetts, Ollie Stevens
Phil Layton 19/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Muy divertido

with simon
simeclimb68 19/Sep/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 09/Sep/12 2nd rpt
Steve Perry 09/Sep/12 Lead

This would have been a great climb a very long time ago, unfortunately it's now just so polished the grade doesn't count and the enjoyment is zero.

Tala M 04/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Fantastic solid gear, great moves, the rests are there if you look but then you just have to keep moving. Top out is awkward!

ericinbristol 02/Sep/12 Lead rpt

2nd of 17 routes in 6 hours.

with Johnny S
rd20 01/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with David P
dprctr 01/Sep/12 Lead β

Climbed with four pieces in low down after Roberts attempt. Some really awesome jams to rest on, loved it.

Hidden ?/Sep/12 2nd
Mike Hood 30/Aug/12 Lead
martin one 26/Aug/12 2nd rpt
with Tim
Hidden 26/Aug/12 -
Fiona McFarlane ?/Aug/12 2nd dog
with Helen Lear
jacobjlloyd 24/Jul/12 Lead O/S

On Tony's gear up to the crux

with Tony
Hidden 24/Jul/12 2nd
benscarter 22/Jul/12 Lead β
with Chris O
Hidden 22/Jul/12 2nd
Duncan Turner 29/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Excellent climb

with stu
Hidden 29/Jun/12 2nd
thetradlad 09/Jun/12 2nd O/S
with Keeno
Ross.Cooper 09/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Brilliant. sustained route

mjeffery 01/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Ando
Becky C 27/May/12 2nd
with Notsi, Fat Al
Hidden 26/May/12 Lead O/S
Greg M 26/May/12 Lead dog
with Dave H
mikeyg 26/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/May/12 2nd
Puckle 24/May/12 -

Technical start then finger thuggery up to the ledge 2/3 up, managed a couple of jams but mostly laybacked it. Sweating and panting by the finish

alastairbegley 22/May/12 Lead dog

Found very hard, first proper trad fall

Ade7 13/May/12 2nd O/S
with Stewart
marcduhig 13/May/12 Lead O/S

Jammed my way up.

lizzie789 13/May/12 2nd
Hidden 06/May/12 Lead dog
Danny_boulders 06/May/12 AltLd O/S
with fireman pete
Hidden 22/Apr/12 2nd
98%monkey 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Polished, challenging, yet satisfying. Didn't use a single jam; the climb affords a kaleidascope of possibility when it comes to technique.

with Nicki
Mistee 07/Apr/12 2nd dog

Bloody hard - didn't cry

with Phil
Country_Boy 06/Apr/12 Lead dog

Strenuous (for me). Had to hang on the rope a couple of times one the way up. Arrived at the top, absolutely exhausted. Touched the top, then fell off while trying to top out. My first trad lead fall! A superb experience.

with Anton
harold walmsley 05/Apr/12 2nd O/S

Smooth slippery feet and fingers make it a test of body tension

with Paul Evans
Hidden 31/Mar/12 Lead
RossT 24/Mar/12 2nd
Goose4 03/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Ross, Tom Adams
monsteratt 25/Feb/12 2nd

Enjoyed this second time round.

with Mark Jones, Andrew Abraham
Andrew Abraham 25/Feb/12 Lead O/S
jack1996 16/Feb/12 Lead O/S

such a great route! definatly 3 star HVS, loved every minute

with pete
Hidden 14/Feb/12 2nd O/S
Elise2977 ?/Feb/12 2nd dog
Hidden 02/Jan/12 Lead O/S
TomMorgan 02/Jan/12 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 23/Oct/11 Lead O/S
hutchay 23/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Amazing Climb, thoroughly enjoyable and solid for the grade.

tomhill#1 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Oct/11 Lead O/S
tommytuffa 18/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Great route, enjoyed it. Harder than other HVS routes at crag (I thought)!

with Quicko
bpmclimb 18/Oct/11 2nd rpt

Definitely getting more polished, and harder.

with Helen S
Cornish Cream 27/Sep/11 Lead
with Alice Loudon
Hidden 23/Sep/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Sep/11 Lead O/S
mick1jones 06/Aug/11 2nd dog


with Rich Rogers
haydng 30/Jul/11 2nd O/S


with Dave
Didymus 26/Jul/11 Lead β

Exhausting polished jamming

with Nick
Hidden 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Dave Ing 10/Jul/11 Lead dnf

Struggled with the early footwork then got pumped. Would be keen to see if new shoes help.

with Nick H
Gareth T 10/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Tim Popplestone
georgel 03/Jul/11 Lead β

hard for hvs

with anthony
Hidden 03/Jul/11 Lead dog
MarkRyder 02/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with James P
jamespilgrim 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S

First HVS lead. Not 3* route - the bottom is polished to hell. The top section which the guide claims is harder was much more pleasant as it has friction! Well protected.

with Mark
antdav 26/Jun/11 2nd dog

Took a rest after heading off on the wrong side of the crack, a sustained climb for a HVS.

with Wayne
waynem1985 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
j miller 19/Jun/11 Lead O/S

horrible climb might have been nice 30 years ago but its polished to hell truly didn't enjoy this at all. it is a nice line though.

with elena
Ruth ND 14/Jun/11 2nd dog
with Fletch
Ben Vieyra 05/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/11 2nd
Hidden 25/May/11 Lead rpt
s.c.white 25/May/11 2nd O/S

This route seems to have annoyed/scared a few people. It was quite a cool route. It was obviously a lot easier and nicer in 1984 though.

Mike Kiss 22/May/11 Lead O/S

Steep and sustained finger crack, felt hard, good gear though. Getting a bit polished

with Old man Andy, Nick Hatton
mullermn 21/May/11 2nd rpt

Tried on second after last time's lead fiasco. Still didn't find it as easy as Monkey, who managed to do the whole route bridging the corner on invisible holds.

with Monkey
Monk 21/May/11 Lead O/S

Really nice route.

andrzej kierzek 15/May/11 Lead O/S
with Tara
Hidden 14/May/11 2nd
lizzie789 08/May/11 Lead dog

First attempt at HVS, rested on a piece of gear as wasn't confident to move up off slightly polished foothold. Manned up and did move, finished. Happy to not back off.

marcduhig 08/May/11 2nd O/S
just one more 04/May/11 Lead
with Svenn G
Ybot Htulk 02/May/11 Lead dnf
with Norman
Kap 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S

First HVS, harder than it looked

grp 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S

just awesome

Justin T 23/Apr/11 2nd

Utter sandbag. If a VS leader tried this they'd give up any thoughts of ever reaching Extreme grades. If you like thrutchy, polished jamming cracks it'll be right up your street.

with Cherry
Hidden 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Andy Clarke 17/Apr/11 Lead rpt

A great line that cries out to be climbed. Getting polished at start, but OK if you can jam. Probably desperate if you can't!

with Suzanne, Dale
Dibdawg 16/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Mark Sheridan
3 Names 10/Apr/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Apr/11 Lead rpt
Goose4 06/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Great climb, slightly thuggy finger jamming crack!

Binder 20/Mar/11 2nd dog

Very pumpy, pretty tough! Fell off about 1/3rd of the way up - couldn't stay on a very polished foothold!

with JT
Hidden 20/Mar/11 Lead rpt
Dizz 20/Mar/11 Lead dog

This is extreme good value for the grade!

NB Pixel 20/Mar/11 2nd O/S
with DizLiz
Hidden 20/Mar/11 Lead dog
Yanis Nayu 19/Mar/11 2nd O/S

Bloody strenuous!

with Tom
arunthomas 19/Mar/11 2nd dog
with Shaun E
shaunyegg 19/Mar/11 Lead dog

One rest, much needed after finally getting a nut in! Very pumpy!

stvredmond 06/Mar/11 Lead

This felt way harder than motion pictures. couldnt feel my fingers all the way up due to cold and felt like i was about to collapse by the 2/3height ledge. Good climb but so so so hard

Run_Ross_Run 06/Mar/11 2nd dnf

Hard. Very Hard, even on 2nd. Just mind the vomit.

with Steve
Helnorris 06/Mar/11 2nd

Really hard for the grade. Pumpy and does not let up untill the good ledge. Good climbing but hard.

Nevil ??/2011 Lead
with Rich, Vince
Vincej ??/2011 2nd
with Nevil
will_benfold 13/Nov/10 Lead O/S

Sustained until ledge at two-thirds height, but well protected.

with Giovanni
ian d f 13/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with D Haley
Hidden 31/Oct/10 2nd
Hidden 24/Oct/10 Lead O/S
mullermn 16/Oct/10 Lead dog

.. but I nearly did. Not sure what happened on this one, didn't feel right from the word go. Never found a rhythm and had a bit of a struggle the whole way up. Fell off twice below the first small roof/bulge at ~10m. Rained briefly when I was near the top, finally topped out literally as night fell. So, good fun!

Ceridwen 19/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with Andy
pffft 18/Sep/10 TR O/S

Lovely sustained climbing. Really enjoyable, I await the day I will be able to lead such delights. Thanks Kev!

Hidden 18/Sep/10 TR
simeclimb68 11/Sep/10 Lead rpt
Sophie Nunn 18/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Mike
marclloyd77 15/Aug/10 Lead β
JWB 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S

First climb of the day ....... maybe I should have warmed up before this climb. Anyway I was warm after! Loads of gear but quite strenuous. I didnt notice that much polished rock though.

dean79 15/Aug/10 2nd rpt
jon_gill1 15/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Mike Cameron 15/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with dean bucknall, marc lloyd
Hidden 31/Jul/10 Lead O/S
hardoreVdiffBen 31/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Remus
Andy Chubb 25/Jul/10 Lead

First 20 feet are hard due to the polish - worth 5b I reckon

with Nick Gregory
Hidden 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S
sammycolon 25/Jul/10 TR rpt
Kevster 25/Jul/10 Lead
Helen Gibson 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Richard
Hidden 23/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Dux 29/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Trisha Murphy 28/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with mike
Didymus 20/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Rich
richiebongo 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Jon Didymus
ScottyD 19/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Different Steve 12/Jun/10 2nd rpt
with Guy Reid, Martin Hore
dean79 06/Jun/10 Lead β

seconded this before but great to lead. sustained and fabulous!!

with alan watson
toasted 06/Jun/10 2nd
with Dean Bucknall
Jessie Rushbrooke 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with GF
Ali.B ?/Jun/10 Lead dog

Very pumpy with polished foot holds = not as otherwise enjoyable as it might have been

JimBee ?/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Ian Whitehead
Hidden 28/May/10 2nd rpt
Herron 28/May/10 Lead O/S

Dont let the grade fool you. Very much full on for its grade.

with Shane Underwood
bpmclimb 27/May/10 Lead rpt

High in the HVS grade, and the now polished start is probably just about worth 5b.

Andrew Sloan 15/May/10 Lead O/S

Well protected but I thought the first 25ft was sustained 5b.

with Tim
ASchwirtz 09/May/10 TR O/S
with Misha
Misha 08/May/10 Lead O/S

Seconded Mark on this route back in summer 2006 so it was nice to go back and lead it. Good climbing, quite hard for the grade on the bottom section - I think the old guide's grade of HVS 5b was fair. Jamability definitely helps!

with Ant
Chris Sansum 03/May/10 Lead rpt
with Richard Lade, Gary Lewin
benscarter ?/May/10 TR
Pete Rigby ?/May/10 Lead O/S
natalietanzer 25/Apr/10 2nd β

scary - you can see your reflection in the rock most of the way...

with nacnud
stuart34 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/10 2nd dog
nacnud 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
five 18/Apr/10 Lead dog
with AV
katherinesydney 17/Apr/10 2nd dog

good climb but a bit strenuous for a warm up!

with andrew hepworth, gary burgess
tobyb 16/Apr/10 Lead
surfer38 11/Apr/10 Lead dog

Lead this with rests and on pre-placed gear. Very pumpy and a lot of jamming. Will be a project to fully trad lead clean. Bottom of the crack a bit slimy and wet.

crossdressingrodney 07/Mar/10 TR O/S
with Eric
Tomar 07/Mar/10 2nd O/S

Great fun! I can see myself getting addicted to the jamming action

with Eric
ericinbristol 07/Mar/10 Lead rpt
with Jay
lakeyross 06/Mar/10 Lead O/S
chalkiesurf ??/2010 -
dean79 04/Oct/09 2nd

fantastic route, worth 3 stars. sustained with great finger jamming.

marclloyd77 04/Oct/09 Lead dog
peaches69 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S

not the ideal end of day route. or to start lerning finger jamming

with sarah
ASchwirtz 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Sep/09 2nd
AndyFunnell 12/Sep/09 Lead
gingergeorge 05/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Andrea
Hidden 05/Sep/09 Lead
duzinga 05/Sep/09 2nd O/S

good climb

with Pete
gazbonutter 05/Sep/09 2nd dog
monsteratt 29/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Ben Hills
DorsetGareth 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Great climb, v sustained.

with Richard Nadin
simon kimber 07/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hanski 07/Aug/09 2nd
joeym ?/Aug/09 2nd dog
Dunx ?/Aug/09 Lead
with Joe M
Hidden 25/Jul/09 Lead
aldred 04/Jul/09 Lead O/S

Very pumpy, all the way to the last bit.

james.lane 02/Jul/09 Lead O/S
tincann 02/Jul/09 2nd rpt
JamesColeman ?/Jul/09 Lead dog

First Lead HVS. Alot of rests!

with Alan
mattjam 19/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with sammy d
Hidden ?/Jun/09 Lead
tcn_2002 26/May/09 Lead
Dan_Carroll 23/May/09 Lead O/S
with Eric Herring
Hidden 23/May/09 Lead dog
Danhan 23/May/09 2nd
with Steve
grumpyoldjanner 10/May/09 Lead dog

Had a couple of rests

with CUMC
Hidden 05/May/09 Lead O/S
chrisallan 04/May/09 Lead O/S
chrisjones199 03/May/09 2nd dog

not fully fit - 1 rest to remove gear

with Will Jones
Webster 01/May/09 2nd dog

very hard climbing on polished holds and a slimy crack.

aged_ape ?/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Apr/09 Lead O/S
daviesp2 21/Mar/09 2nd
JPGR ?/Mar/09 Lead O/S
gdb4060 21/Feb/09 Lead
with Richard
summo ??/2009 -
gripped01 ??/2009 Lead O/S
quiffhanger ??/2009 Lead O/S

got v. pumped

ChrisAllen ??/2009 -
Dunx 30/Dec/08 Lead
with Adam
Hidden 30/Nov/08 2nd O/S
jasclimb 27/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Steve Williams, Andrew Taylor
Andrew Taylor 27/Sep/08 2nd O/S
DafSWMC 21/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Gareth
gejones 21/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with DafSWMC
Hidden 20/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Shauna 16/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with Steve
sara n 08/Sep/08 2nd
with CS
chockstone ?/Sep/08 2nd β
with Eric Herring
Hidden ?/Sep/08 Lead
maresia 30/Aug/08 2nd O/S
with Rob Scheichl
Hidden 25/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/08 2nd
al99 16/Aug/08 Lead O/S
martinazando 16/Aug/08 2nd dog
Hidden 07/Aug/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Aug/08 Lead
shoulders 03/Aug/08 Lead
with dai
lithos 19/Jul/08 Lead O/S

pumpy but more gear than needlesports

Mark Kemball 13/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Lee Bartrop
gdb4060 24/Jun/08 Lead
with collin
Paul Bowen 14/Jun/08 Lead rpt
Hidden 14/Jun/08 2nd
Sam W 12/Jun/08 Lead
with Ali Williams
Rob84 09/Jun/08 2nd O/S
with Andy F
Chris Sansum 01/Jun/08 2nd dog

Didn't feel like leading anything today due to monster hangover!

with David Gent
davidgent 01/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Chris Sansum
Bristoldave 17/May/08 Lead O/S
with douglas
Hidden 14/May/08 2nd O/S
riddle 03/May/08 Lead O/S
with Yasmina
Hidden 02/May/08 2nd dog
Prez 26/Apr/08 2nd O/S
with Oli
leerybunny 26/Apr/08 Lead
bpmclimb 01/Apr/08 Lead rpt

Very familiar now but still feels hard!

with Heather Lewis
HughM ?/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with John Tomlinson
Hidden ?/Apr/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Jan/08 Lead
Al Franks 26/Jan/08 Lead O/S
with Ingrid
Alasdair88 26/Jan/08 Lead O/S
with Ingrid
pattisonr 22/Oct/07 Lead β
with 2nd tigers dont cry
Hidden 20/Oct/07 Lead dog
poey50 02/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Chris W
Circus 24/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Loz
Dr Caterpillar 24/Aug/07 2nd dog
with Adam
thomasadixon 11/Aug/07 Lead rpt

Tried to do this as my first HVS (stupid idea!), got about 4 metres up and backed off. Nice to finally get it done. Doesn't let up at all!

with John_Hat
eagleopus 01/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Gareth & Dee
chris wyatt 14/Jul/07 2nd O/S
Andrew1 18/Jun/07 Lead
with Hannah
Jim Slater 10/Jun/07 Lead dog

Brilliant climb. Sustained. Need to get back there and clean climb it!

with Mirek
featuresforfeet 20/May/07 2nd O/S


with Clive M
Hidden 05/May/07 Lead
Eccentric ?/May/07 2nd dog
Duncan Skelton 22/Apr/07 Lead

sustained and pumpy - needs better footwork and confidence than I gave it

with Kai Green
brer-rabbit 20/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Apr/07 Lead dog
mikej 20/Apr/07 2nd
with Nick Salmon
toasted 01/Apr/07 Lead
with Ian Atkins
Hidden ??/2007 -
Stone Muppet ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
annabel hodges ?/Nov/06 2nd dog

My first HVS second, second time ever climbing!

with Jon Bleiker
DrGav 15/Oct/06 2nd

Lower section is quite thin and has some serious polish on a critical foothold. Slipped a couple of times, then actually popped off. Quite thin hand jams at the bottom even though it does ease up to around 5a. Hard for the grade!

with Dave
David Martin 14/Oct/06 Lead dog
with DrGav
annabel hodges ?/Oct/06 2nd

Second time outdoor climbing, first time HVS and on-the-job learning how to layback - fun.

with Jon Bleiker
Hidden 28/Sep/06 2nd O/S
dan gibson 28/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with chris broadly
sam8oy 10/Sep/06 Lead O/S

Very good climb, polished in parts and tests a few different climbing techniques

with John
Mark_RMC 30/Jul/06 Lead

A sustained, physical climb with a lot of finger jamming. One of the hardest cimbs I had done at the time. Simon Turner, failed to second it.

with Michelle
turnersi 29/Jul/06 2nd
with Mark Taylor
Bux 18/Jul/06 2nd rpt
with Harry and Sam
Morgan Woods 02/Jul/06 2nd
with Gareth
Hidden 01/Jun/06 2nd RP
Hidden ?/Jun/06 2nd
Hidden 28/May/06 Lead O/S
leerybunny 06/May/06 2nd O/S
Tim W 06/May/06 Lead O/S
tincann 05/May/06 2nd β

Nice climb. Real tricky and polished start to some bold moves in the middle section. Jugs towards top prove a relief for tired arms!

jon thompson27 ?/May/06 Lead O/S

Pleasing HVS tick classic of Shorn Cliff! Good gear & not too pumpy

with Richard
localboy 22/Apr/06 2nd O/S

Knacked arms by the stance 3/4 way up. Very tough on the arms.

with Simon F
Hidden ?/Apr/06 2nd O/S
alaan 25/Feb/06 Lead O/S
with Chris
beardy mike ??/2006 -
bpmclimb 23/Aug/05 Lead rpt
with Clare
TimPerkin 07/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Dave Gale
Hidden 16/Jul/05 TR
naughtybadboy 16/Jul/05 2nd
Bux ?/Jul/05 Lead rpt
with Rupert Bassadone
givemetea ?/Jun/05 Lead O/S
with Ann Chong
Fat Tim 14/May/05 Lead O/S
with Ben Fridland
Hidden 08/May/05 Lead dog
gimmer ?/May/05 -
with Matt Telfer
Dave Reeve ?/Apr/05 Lead O/S
with Tony Payne
Hidden ??/2005 -
tom.e ??/2005 2nd
with Charlie Everett
dycotiles ??/2005 Lead O/S

When was this route downgraded to 5a? I think it deserves everybit of a technical 5b!

with Patrik
Ken Taylor 01/Jun/04 2nd
with Gerry Dunford
Hidden ??/2004 Lead O/S
a_radiohead_fan ??/2004 -
Mark A Humphries ??/2004 Lead O/S
with dean howard
Urgles ?/Nov/03 Lead O/S
with Laura
bpmclimb 23/Oct/03 Lead dog
with Clare
drysori ?/Aug/03 Lead
with StephC
Hidden 11/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe 31/May/03 Lead
with Dave Clilverd
Boxy 06/Oct/02 Lead rpt
Hidden 17/Aug/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jul/02 Lead
verticalsport 02/Jun/02 2nd

Brilliant route

with Nick
Hidden ??/2002 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/01 Lead O/S
Tim Sparrow ??/2001 Lead
Lepista 20/Aug/00 Lead
DubyaJamesDubya 25/Jun/00 -
with Cedric Favre, Martin Flint
migs493 01/May/00 2nd β
Scotsken ??/2000 -
cem ??/2000 Lead dog

1 rest

with James Gregory
alan moore ??/2000 -


pezzerrr 22/Aug/99 Lead O/S
Jim Brooke 25/Jul/99 Lead O/S
Laramadness 26/May/99 Lead dog
Hidden ?/May/99 2nd
mikej 11/Apr/99 2nd
with Nick Salmon
Hidden ??/1999 Lead rpt
chris sm 05/Jul/98 2nd O/S
with Nick Wheeler
liabilityliz 28/Jun/98 Lead
with Mark Trepte
guy xavier percival 05/Jun/98 Lead O/S
with rod
Budge 21/Mar/98 Lead O/S
with Janet Vince, Adrian Fox
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
Hidden 27/May/97 Lead
goi.ashmore 16/Mar/97 Lead O/S
with Roy Thomas
Gary Coggon ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Colin Dry
Hidden ??/1997 Lead
Tim Bateman 07/Jul/96 Lead
Mark Salter ??/1995 2nd
with Matt Hurst
AndySL ??/1994 2nd O/S
with Jerry
Hidden 13/Jul/93 -
Hidden 11/Jul/93 2nd
Backinthegame ?/Jul/93 Lead O/S
with Lynn Wilkins, John Wright
3 Names ??/1993 Lead O/S
sdht ??/1992 -
Tony Buckley ?/Aug/91 -
strapless 30/Jun/91 Lead
with Ju
Hidden 16/Sep/90 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Jun/90 2nd
Hidden 07/Jun/90 Lead
nigehughes ?/Mar/90 Lead
with Gary Clough
Marti999 ??/1990 Lead
GordonHart ??/1990 Lead O/S
with Clare Hart
mark-abz 06/Aug/89 TR
with Phill R
RichardMc 21/May/89 Lead
with Geoff Dunne
Hidden 13/May/89 Lead
Jelly Mould Surfer 22/Apr/89 Lead O/S
babymoac 03/Sep/88 Lead
with MTW
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
matt davies, Hawkgirl, radams2000, callumbtaylor, Doug miller, Leelogs, Hidden, lem, Zane_18, druss, Hidden, dawesbub, Hidden, Hidden, JonmapDL, Albie, Hidden, Fred_Richard, solenostomus, davidgc, martinazando, alexanderjwatts, Tyson Broad, Hidden, Hidden, Dassie, Kemics, nchammer, Fatclimber, Owen W-G, Hidden, Ander, AsleepOnBelay, Dax, Hidden, gareth r, James Moyle, Hidden, Eccentric, Hidden, JackMountains, Hidden, Hidden
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 149
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 142
Votes cast 125
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set