|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
|George Frisby||04/Oct||2nd O/S|
Ouch!! Not my style - gruelling jams.
Led to rescue Matt's gear. I didn't really fancy it, especially after Matt's struggles but it went OK. Tricky move at the top. Overall I think it is a straightforward climb with a few tiring moves.
So polished it's hardly worth the stars.....
|Tony Holdsworth||29/Aug||Lead dnf|
HVS ha ha
emma rowland, ben rowland, bill farmer
Its not polished, try climbing at avon gorge! Despite this, it did feel like a battle with several crux moves. Awesome route, even better when you know how to jam :D
|Stickle Tarn||26/Jul||Lead O/S|
|Gareth T||11/Jul||Lead dog||
Defeated by rubber lacking shoes on polish
One rest, though a massive improvement over last years effort, top half is way more interesting when you're pumped silly from the bottom!
|luke glaister||27/Jun||Lead O/S||
3*** brilliantNess when looking at the polish it make u think. O this is gunna be fun... but it never spoilt the climb I thought. First route of the day and I walked up it. Bridge when u can and place bomber gear. Loved it.
Feet slipped off a smear with my hands on the finishing holds. Talked myself out of taking a dangerous looking lob (gear quite low). Phew.
Polished & Pumpy!
|Neil Rigiani||06/Jun||2nd O/S||
Ellie Woods, Tim Reynolds
Still a great route, despite the polish.
Nails and polished (no pun intended) . Felt much harder than Side Effects (E1)
Harder than I remembered it. Used painful finger jam to pass the bulge.
|Tom '14||22/Mar||Lead dnf||
First trad fall. Two of the three nuts came loose, top ( no.3 walnut) help. Scared the crap out of me.
First Trad climb of the year. Messed up the last move. Mentally taxing. Must do better next time!!! :/
|Sarah Black||01/Nov/14||Lead O/S|
|Ash Sayers||23/Aug/14||Lead O/S|
Jumped on this as my warm up climb for the day (slightly optimistic?). Initial section is pumpy as hell because of the polish, I didn't trust a single hand or foothold for the first 5m it was that bad. Once past that the route gets easier the higher up it gets (seems to be a feature of this crag?). Gear was generally good. Ace route!
|Graeme Hammond||13/Aug/14||Lead O/S||
Excellent. Thought the start was the hardest bit and the rest was good juggy crack climbing with perfect gear. Not as polished as people make out and certainly makes it no harder or detracts from the climbing.
|alaster tonge||03/Aug/14||Lead dnf||
Hard climb. Polished crack. My dog barked and barked when I was half way up and people arrived and stopped right next to us. We had had the cliff to ourselves all day at that point. Wished they had moved on, in a panic to let Assad calm the dog down, I rested on a nut that came out when the large flake it was behind moved a few mm. I fell about 9m and was just caught enough to hit the ground gently at the end of rope stretch. Teaches me to trust to minimal levels of protection on this kind of rock! The rock can move... I want to come back.
Family en masse
coulnd't get up this but came back to it 20 mins later after spotting a foothold I hadn't seen. Sustained with a difficult crux. Well led by Stew
|Ricky Rocks||21/Jul/14||Lead O/S||
|Julie Carroll||21/Jul/14||Lead O/S||
|Curly Rich||13/Jul/14||Lead dog||
Gutted 1 rest at about 4-5 metres
Awesome climb, sustained but bomber gear all the way up.
|Felix Ottey||14/Jun/14||Lead O/S|
Good route, tricky start
Had a really hard time on this one but Al breezed up it like spiderman, Harry couldn't hack it
All a bit polished and strenuous for me. Didn't get far off the bottom.
Nice route, quite sustained right to the last, but did not feel too polished to me.
|Stuart William||13/Apr/14||Lead O/S||
Perfect jams and easier than I expected. Minor polish doesn't detract from the route at all.
Really nice climb. Freaked out a little bit, but sorted it out
What an inspiring route! so good, loved it!
Such an awesome climb. Definitely one to lead next time I'm down
Clean Aid with free in trainers practice.great fun
Great climb! Worth 3 stars
|Sam Watson||16/Mar/14||Lead O/S||
Stunning line. Not too difficult but sustained in places and fun all the way.
|Becky E||??/2014||2nd dog||
Not a glittering performance. Fell off about half way up due to not seeing a jug. Then ran out of juice and couldn't top out.
excellent if abit polished, possibly 5b
|James Oswald||27/Aug/13||Lead dog||
Tough climbing up the groove, bad warm-up. I fell off twice, once stood at a rest and then on the crux. A poor effort!
|Phil PBC||14/Jul/13||2nd O/S||
tom rogers, sarah jane d
Nice. Sustained, had me out of breath by the top. Another good lead by AF.
clean on second go
|Peter Lovell||28/Jun/13||Lead O/S|
Finally ticked the first climb on wishlist! Very well protected, absolute sinker large/medium wires the whole way. Only used a few finger jams, more like sustained 4c..no real crux and hardly polished except for one edge which was avoidable.
Pretty sustained, but the gear's all there. Good if you like cracks!
Hard - don't hang around - place gear or not, but keep moving!
Nicholas Lokuciewski, Anna Morris
|Anna Morris||08/Jun/13||2nd O/S|
|Fiona McFarlane||?/Jun/13||2nd dog||
Still dogged, but found it a lot more manageable than last time. Would consider leading it as it has excellent protection
|Tom Brierley Gore||18/May/13||Lead O/S||
Nick Eaton, Shijing Hu
Much easier now I can jam!
A good route. Lots of 5a moves.
|Giles Eperon||20/Apr/13||Lead O/S||
benedikt, adam poundall
|Ed morris||27/Oct/12||Lead O/S||
Jack keo, wildblood, chris irwin
Very, very pumpy, but i didn't do any jamming which i would guess makes it less pumpy. Also i didn't notice the polish at all.
John Bennetts, Ollie Stevens
|Phil Layton||19/Sep/12||Lead O/S||
This would have been a great climb a very long time ago, unfortunately it's now just so polished the grade doesn't count and the enjoyment is zero.
|Tala M||04/Sep/12||Lead O/S||
Fantastic solid gear, great moves, the rests are there if you look but then you just have to keep moving. Top out is awkward!
2nd of 17 routes in 6 hours.
Climbed with four pieces in low down after Roberts attempt. Some really awesome jams to rest on, loved it.
|martin one||26/Aug/12||2nd rpt||
|Fiona McFarlane||?/Aug/12||2nd dog||
On Tony's gear up to the crux
|Duncan Turner||29/Jun/12||Lead O/S||
Brilliant. sustained route
Notsi, Fat Al
|Greg M||26/May/12||Lead dog||
Technical start then finger thuggery up to the ledge 2/3 up, managed a couple of jams but mostly laybacked it. Sweating and panting by the finish
Found very hard, first proper trad fall
Jammed my way up.
Polished, challenging, yet satisfying. Didn't use a single jam; the climb affords a kaleidascope of possibility when it comes to technique.
Bloody hard - didn't cry
Strenuous (for me). Had to hang on the rope a couple of times one the way up. Arrived at the top, absolutely exhausted. Touched the top, then fell off while trying to top out. My first trad lead fall! A superb experience.
|harold walmsley||05/Apr/12||2nd O/S||
Smooth slippery feet and fingers make it a test of body tension
Ross, Tom Adams
Enjoyed this second time round.
Mark Jones, Andrew Abraham
such a great route! definatly 3 star HVS, loved every minute
Amazing Climb, thoroughly enjoyable and solid for the grade.
Great route, enjoyed it. Harder than other HVS routes at crag (I thought)!
Definitely getting more polished, and harder.
Exhausting polished jamming
|Dave Ing||10/Jul/11||Lead dnf||
Struggled with the early footwork then got pumped. Would be keen to see if new shoes help.
|Gareth T||10/Jul/11||2nd O/S||
hard for hvs
First HVS lead. Not 3* route - the bottom is polished to hell. The top section which the guide claims is harder was much more pleasant as it has friction! Well protected.
Took a rest after heading off on the wrong side of the crack, a sustained climb for a HVS.
|j miller||19/Jun/11||Lead O/S||
horrible climb might have been nice 30 years ago but its polished to hell truly didn't enjoy this at all. it is a nice line though.
|Ruth ND||14/Jun/11||2nd dog||
|Ben Vieyra||05/Jun/11||Lead O/S|
This route seems to have annoyed/scared a few people. It was quite a cool route. It was obviously a lot easier and nicer in 1984 though.
|Mike Kiss||22/May/11||Lead O/S||
Steep and sustained finger crack, felt hard, good gear though. Getting a bit polished
Old man Andy, Nick Hatton
Tried on second after last time's lead fiasco. Still didn't find it as easy as Monkey, who managed to do the whole route bridging the corner on invisible holds.
Really nice route.
|andrzej kierzek||15/May/11||Lead O/S|
First attempt at HVS, rested on a piece of gear as wasn't confident to move up off slightly polished foothold. Manned up and did move, finished. Happy to not back off.
|just one more||04/May/11||Lead||
|Ybot Htulk||02/May/11||Lead dnf||
First HVS, harder than it looked
Utter sandbag. If a VS leader tried this they'd give up any thoughts of ever reaching Extreme grades. If you like thrutchy, polished jamming cracks it'll be right up your street.
|Andy Clarke||17/Apr/11||Lead rpt||
A great line that cries out to be climbed. Getting polished at start, but OK if you can jam. Probably desperate if you can't!
|3 Names||10/Apr/11||2nd rpt|
Great climb, slightly thuggy finger jamming crack!
Very pumpy, pretty tough! Fell off about 1/3rd of the way up - couldn't stay on a very polished foothold!
This is extreme good value for the grade!
|NB Pixel||20/Mar/11||2nd O/S|
|Yanis Nayu||19/Mar/11||2nd O/S||
One rest, much needed after finally getting a nut in! Very pumpy!
This felt way harder than motion pictures. couldnt feel my fingers all the way up due to cold and felt like i was about to collapse by the 2/3height ledge. Good climb but so so so hard
Hard. Very Hard, even on 2nd. Just mind the vomit.
Really hard for the grade. Pumpy and does not let up untill the good ledge. Good climbing but hard.
Sustained until ledge at two-thirds height, but well protected.
|ian d f||13/Nov/10||Lead O/S||
.. but I nearly did. Not sure what happened on this one, didn't feel right from the word go. Never found a rhythm and had a bit of a struggle the whole way up. Fell off twice below the first small roof/bulge at ~10m. Rained briefly when I was near the top, finally topped out literally as night fell. So, good fun!
Lovely sustained climbing. Really enjoyable, I await the day I will be able to lead such delights. Thanks Kev!
|Sophie Nunn||18/Aug/10||Lead O/S||
First climb of the day ....... maybe I should have warmed up before this climb. Anyway I was warm after! Loads of gear but quite strenuous. I didnt notice that much polished rock though.
|Mike Cameron||15/Aug/10||2nd O/S||
dean bucknall, marc lloyd
First 20 feet are hard due to the polish - worth 5b I reckon
|Helen Gibson||24/Jul/10||Lead O/S||
|Trisha Murphy||28/Jun/10||Lead O/S|
|Different Steve||12/Jun/10||2nd rpt||
Guy Reid, Martin Hore
seconded this before but great to lead. sustained and fabulous!!
|Jessie Rushbrooke||05/Jun/10||Lead O/S||
Very pumpy with polished foot holds = not as otherwise enjoyable as it might have been
Dont let the grade fool you. Very much full on for its grade.
High in the HVS grade, and the now polished start is probably just about worth 5b.
|Andrew Sloan||15/May/10||Lead O/S||
Well protected but I thought the first 25ft was sustained 5b.
Seconded Mark on this route back in summer 2006 so it was nice to go back and lead it. Good climbing, quite hard for the grade on the bottom section - I think the old guide's grade of HVS 5b was fair. Jamability definitely helps!
|Chris Sansum||03/May/10||Lead rpt||
Richard Lade, Gary Lewin
|Pete Rigby||?/May/10||Lead O/S|
scary - you can see your reflection in the rock most of the way...
good climb but a bit strenuous for a warm up!
andrew hepworth, gary burgess
Lead this with rests and on pre-placed gear. Very pumpy and a lot of jamming. Will be a project to fully trad lead clean. Bottom of the crack a bit slimy and wet.
Great fun! I can see myself getting addicted to the jamming action
fantastic route, worth 3 stars. sustained with great finger jamming.
not the ideal end of day route. or to start lerning finger jamming
Great climb, v sustained.
|simon kimber||07/Aug/09||Lead O/S|
Very pumpy, all the way to the last bit.
First Lead HVS. Alot of rests!
Had a couple of rests
not fully fit - 1 rest to remove gear
very hard climbing on polished holds and a slimy crack.
|James Marshall||01/Apr/09||Lead O/S||
Horrible & polished
got v. pumped
Steve Williams, Andrew Taylor
|Andrew Taylor||27/Sep/08||2nd O/S|
pumpy but more gear than needlesports
|Mark Kemball||13/Jul/08||Lead O/S||
|Paul Bowen||14/Jun/08||Lead rpt|
|Chris Sansum||01/Jun/08||2nd dog||
Didn't feel like leading anything today due to monster hangover!
Very familiar now but still feels hard!
|Al Franks||26/Jan/08||Lead O/S||
2nd tigers dont cry
|Dr Caterpillar||24/Aug/07||2nd dog|
Tried to do this as my first HVS (stupid idea!), got about 4 metres up and backed off. Nice to finally get it done. Doesn't let up at all!
Gareth & Dee
|chris wyatt||14/Jul/07||2nd O/S|
|Jim Slater||10/Jun/07||Lead dog||
Brilliant climb. Sustained. Need to get back there and clean climb it!
sustained and pumpy - needs better footwork and confidence than I gave it
|annabel hodges||?/Nov/06||2nd dog||
My first HVS second, second time ever climbing!
Lower section is quite thin and has some serious polish on a critical foothold. Slipped a couple of times, then actually popped off. Quite thin hand jams at the bottom even though it does ease up to around 5a. Hard for the grade!
|David Martin||14/Oct/06||Lead dog|
Second time outdoor climbing, first time HVS and on-the-job learning how to layback - fun.
|dan gibson||28/Sep/06||Lead O/S||
Very good climb, polished in parts and tests a few different climbing techniques
A sustained, physical climb with a lot of finger jamming. One of the hardest cimbs I had done at the time. Simon Turner, failed to second it.
Harry and Sam
|Tim W||06/May/06||Lead O/S|
Nice climb. Real tricky and polished start to some bold moves in the middle section. Jugs towards top prove a relief for tired arms!
|jon thompson27||?/May/06||Lead O/S||
Pleasing HVS tick classic of Shorn Cliff! Good gear & not too pumpy
Knacked arms by the stance 3/4 way up. Very tough on the arms.
|Fat Tim||14/May/05||Lead O/S||
|Dave Reeve||?/Apr/05||Lead O/S||
When was this route downgraded to 5a? I think it deserves everybit of a technical 5b!
|Mark A Humphries||??/2004||Lead O/S||
Cedric Favre, Martin Flint
|Jim Brooke||25/Jul/99||Lead O/S|
|chris sm||05/Jul/98||2nd O/S||
|guy xavier percival||05/Jun/98||Lead O/S||
Janet Vince, Adrian Fox
|Gary Coggon||??/1997||Lead O/S||
Lynn Wilkins, John Wright
|3 Names||??/1993||Lead O/S|
|Jelly Mould Surfer||22/Apr/89||Lead O/S|