The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.
Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.
Dates: 15 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
A strong line with good technical climbing, although the easy lower wall may need a bit of on-route cleaning. Start 7m right of the A Stitch in Time buttress, under a right leading overlap. Gain the overlap and follow it to a peg at its end. Move out left to stand above the overlap. Make technical moves up past a peg in a break and climb the wall above to a flake and easier ground. Tree belay above. © Rockfax
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Grade: E2 5b ***
(Shorn Cliff)