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Kangaroo Wall*** E2 6a

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[Leaving the cave stance on Kangaroo Wall (pitch 3), 3 kb]90m, 4 pitches. A fantastic sustained climb, covering impressive territory at a reasonable grade. Start up the bridging corner capped by a roof, about 10 metres right of King Kong. Climb the corner, good wires and a peg, to the roof (peg) and make a difficult move right onto the face. Follow the best rock and holds more or less straight up the face, past a peg, heading towards a flake crack in a white wall. Peg belay on a ledge above the flake crack. Make a difficult move off the ledge, up and right towards a peg, and continue to a bulge with a downward pointing peg. The 6a crux follows, well protected by an in situ thread once you've got high enough to clip that. This section can be passed on the left at 5c. Traverse right into the start of the chimney and climb up for about 5 metres to a comfortable belay in a cave (ignore the deep, narrow cleft lower down the chimney, though it makes for a memorable belay if you so wish). Climb slightly up the chimney and transfer right onto the face in a sensationally exposed position. Aim for a break in the vegetation above, past a peg. Carefully scramble up the earthy section - roots and branches come in handy. Belay at the base of the final headwall. Follow either of the two crack lines in the headwall, the right hand one is 5c per the guidebook and the left hand one is 5a, with a short traverse right where vegetation blocks the way and a final layback to the top (although the 2007 guide book suggests going left at 5b (up a corner, swinging left to an arete and final mantel) rather than right).
C King (F Bennett, P Lennard May 1966, aid) May/1978

Ticklists: 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Ultimate E2 ticklist.

Photo: Leaving the cave stance on Kangaroo Wall (pitch 3) © The Pylon King
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 118 logbooks, and on 20 wishlists.

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/14

P1+3.
skippington - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/14

danmullett - AltLd dog - 29/Jun/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/14

Andy Smallwood - AltLd O/S - 21/May/14

CA1289 - 2nd - 21/May/14

first pitch only linked to king kong on ledge
jack1996 - Lead - 21/May/14

Connoor - 21/May/14

Not really clean and didnt lead any crux sections. Having done the crux, via 5c move I pulled on the thread for a bit. Only to realise I didnt need to at all. So a cowardly point of aid. Top pitches were excellent as well, full value route. Very top of the grade? cant think of many E2s that I found harder.
Kemics - AltLd β - 14/May/14 with Neil

jcw - 2014

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Sep/13

P1, rested below the roof. Aided the lay back at the top of P1, shameful tactics. Lead P3, excellent exposure great route in all
riddle - AltLd dog - 31/Aug/13 with Adam Ryan

Tough little cookie. I led pitch 2 & 4, after spending a long time trying to work out the crux move I ended up pulling on the peg to get the thread clipped. I could then do the move, but it felt utterly desperate. The thread doesn't really protect the crux as you have to make the move to reach it, relying on the poor peg. P3 had wild exposure!
adam 24 - AltLd dog - 31/Aug/13 with Roger Hamilton Smith

Shocker. One point of rest and aided the 6a move. Going back to climb it properly...
gripped01 - Lead - 21/Aug/13 with Colin Scott

tom.e - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/13 with Charlie Everett

What a great route! Varied climbing, and the exposure on p3 is awesome! The p2 crux would be a lot harder for the short... I led 1,2 and 4 (as described in 2007 guide up the corner and arete)
Nick Russell - AltLd O/S - 03/Aug/13 with Will Attridge

Hidden - AltLd dog - 03/Aug/13

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Jun/13

lead p1 and p3, Dave combined p2&4. end of the day, just didn't have the power to pull through crux on p1 nor on p2. Fabulous climbing throughout.
msoldn - AltLd dog - 09/Jun/13 with Dave

Pete Rigby - AltLd dog - 09/Jun/13 with Jim Tan

THe left hand variant over the bulge is much easier than straight over beneath the thread - and more in keeping with the rest of the route - 5c. If some kind soul could carry some secateurs up to prune the rose bush that's growing at the top of the last pitch I'm sure many would be grateful. A nut key wasn't really up to the job.
nniff - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/13

Led Pitches 3 and 4. Pulled on thread on 2nd pitch. Atmospheric and exciting climb. I will be back to lead pitches 1 and 2!
LJKing - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/13 with Adrian Botting

Fell off the crux on pitch two - twice
stuart34 - Lead dog - 25/May/13 with simon white

Led the first two pitches. Bloody awkward exiting the corner on the first, and foot popped on the second just as I got a good incut - held it all together and ploughed on upwards. Excellent fun, and in some lovely sunshine at points too.
AJM - AltLd O/S - 22/May/13 with Crispin Cooper

P1+2 seconded oldschool style (A0). Lead P3+4.
Stone Muppet - AltLd - 22/May/13 with am

Excellent
Ollie B - AltLd O/S - 18/May/13 with B.Brewer

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 01/May/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Apr/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Apr/13

OS attempt - Failed on the 6a crux - disproportionatly tough to onsight (for the grade).
Kevster - Lead - 27/Apr/13 with Tony Johnson

tonevert - 2nd dog - 27/Apr/13

Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13 with Caroline

Frozen to flash pumped to pissed off followed by much swearing and a highly ungraceful retreat from a pathetic high-point of about 20' up having struggled for the best part of an hour to get that far. A very traditional climb by the looks of it. Not on my wish-list any more.
Justin T - Lead dnf - 31/Mar/13 with Cherry

pearson9596 - AltLd O/S - 27/Oct/12 with Ian Faulkner

Had a wee rest on the first pitch :(
ian d f - AltLd dog - 27/Oct/12 with Michael P

Cool climb, great first pitch and cool weirdness on the 3rd. Led 2nd and 4th, first is probably the crux overall (hard E2 5c) and I kind of think it would be a better route if you just aided past the overly hard moves on the 2nd (not that I did this of course...). Good last pitch too, totally unpolished and would be worth a star on its own (do most people skip this?).
thomasadixon - AltLd O/S - 15/Sep/12 with Becca

Led pitch 1 and 3. Needed a little help to get through crux on p2 - absolutely desperate for the short, hard 6a?
BeccaSnowden - AltLd O/S - 15/Sep/12 with Tom

2nd pitch
mikeshewring - AltLd - 15/Jul/12

The route is pretty much HVS apart from 2 and a half moves. Quality climbing though!
al99 - AltLd O/S - 29/May/12 with Tom Irving

Hidden - AltLd dog - 29/May/12

Cha p1, 2, 4, Chris p2.5-3. Pulled on thread on crux. Uncomfortably hot day - feet swelled making boots agony by p4. Felt sick with the heat and didn't commit to crux on p4, so lowered and let Cha do it.
Chris Sansum - AltLd dog - 26/May/12 with Chakrit Suriyo

lead P1&2
markalmack - AltLd - 21/Apr/12 with simon kimber

timtimpeggy - 2012

led p1&2
Aaron Lines - AltLd - 07/Oct/11 with frank ramsay

Epic, again. Took up a sport climber and a (strong) beginner who'd never multi-pitched before - memorable day out for all but the 6a crux still felt nails. The third pitch gets you some of the best exposure in the valley on easy enough ground to really enjoy it.
quiffhanger - Lead rpt - 29/Aug/11

Dogged the crux.
Chubbard - Lead dog - 21/Aug/11 with Ray

shoulders - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/11 with andy sharp

37 year gap since my last ascent
sharpie - AltLd rpt - 12/Aug/11 with Jon

harrythegunz - 2nd O/S - Jul/11 with sam

pulled on the sling p2 - shame
Tim M - Lead dog - 30/Jun/11 with Emma

climbergg - 2nd - 30/Jun/11 with cheesesarnie

Chris Sansum - AltLd dog - 14/Jun/11 with James Miller

beautiful have to come back and get this clean
j miller - AltLd dog - 13/Jun/11 with chris sansum

Hidden - AltLd O/S - May/11

thomb - Lead - 30/Apr/11 with David Coley, Darren

lead P2 and P4
davidgent - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/11 with Joe Prinold

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Apr/11

crispyboy - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/11 with alessio

Hidden - Lead - 16/Oct/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Sep/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/10

lead pitch three (5a). P1 very strenuos and fairly sustained. P2 the move felt easier that P1 and the traverse was very airy and exposed but on huge holds. P3 great climbing with plenty of gear but an interesting top out in some vegetation.
benkelsey - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/10 with Remus Knowles

Lead the 3rd and 4th pitches (cleanly). One rest on the rope mid crux on the first pitch and frigged the 6a move on the second pitch. A brilliant route with a awesome feeling finishing move in a truely spectacular position.
lrandall - AltLd dog - 16/Aug/10 with Max Adamson

dan gibson - Lead rpt - 07/Aug/10

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Jul/10

First 2 pitches only due to fading light
Tim Sparrow - AltLd - Jun/10 with Ned

P2+4
Ed Babs - AltLd O/S - 24/May/10 with Harry

irish paul - AltLd O/S - 23/May/10 with Will [Brecon]

Rich led all pitches (did 5c variation of p2) and me and Nick simul-climbed as seconds both aiding the 6a variation of p2. Great exposed climbing with 2 short cruxes. 4.5 hrs in total.
Jon Didymus - 2nd O/S - 07/May/10 with Nick, Rich

richiebongo - Lead O/S - 07/May/10 with Nick Smith, Jon Didymus

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/10

frigged the move by the peg (seemed very hard for the short, couldn't span off the good hold in the corner, smeary moves on the arete maybe?) and then fell quite far off the layback (silly boy), abbed off and went for a pint
Dr Caterpillar - Lead dnf - 14/Mar/10 with Alan Sage

Phil PBC - 2010

simon kimber - Lead - 05/Nov/09 with Sam Lewis

Hidden - 2nd dog - 30/Sep/09

clean on-site on the understanding that it was done in the traditional manner - ie 2 points of aid ;). This is a brilliant route but it was rather hard in 2 places
chris wyatt - Lead - 06/Sep/09 with Tiger Tom

1st pitch only. Dirty, vegetated, polished and hard! 1 rest.
Dave Rumney - Lead - 21/Jun/09 with Tanya Milner

Brilliant route, sustained and with excellent positions. Led P1, P2 and P4, Tom did the exposed P3. Annoying had a rest on the crux of P1 which wasn't really necessary, did the rest clean. The 6a crux on P2 is pretty safe with the in situ tat and the footholds aren't particularly polished - they just aren't particularly there!
Misha - AltLd dog - 14/Jun/09

Stunning and safe climbing throughout, a total classic! Rested on insitu thread at curx on second pitch (hard 5c).
msoldn - AltLd - 13/May/09 with Jason

possibly the slowest ever ascent - 6hrs 30 mins to get up and down
simon kimber - Lead rpt - 03/Apr/09 with Hannah Hunt & Magic Zatorski

Hanski - 2nd - 03/Apr/09 with Simon Kimber

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2009

quiffhanger - Lead O/S - 2009

Seconded the first pitch (cleanly?) in about 04/05 and backed off the second (with TS). put that right this time.
Paz - AltLd - 24/Aug/08 with CH

Fantastic. Brilliant route.
Chubbard - AltLd dog - 24/Aug/08 with Paz

Hidden - 2nd - 10/May/08

fan-tan-tastic!! best route in a very very long time!!
maybe_si - AltLd O/S - 29/Sep/07 with dan gibson

dan gibson - Lead rpt - 28/Sep/07

feilx - Lead O/S - 03/Feb/07 with Tom H

Hidden - 2nd dog - 03/Feb/07

haydng - AltLd O/S - 2007 with Rob

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/06 with jamie evans

Hidden - Lead dog - 09/Sep/06

Lead 2nd and 4th pitches
simonf - AltLd O/S - May/06 with Simon + Chris

Bern - 2006

tonanf - 2006

Can't remember when. Even the year is a guess. Just know I did it at some point. Rested on the peg under the roof on pitch one after failing to find holds over the top. Fell off the crux on pitch two a few times aswell.
Circus - Lead dog - 2006 with Marina

p1 only
Tim M - Lead O/S - 2005 with Emma

climbergg - 2nd - 2005 with cheesesarnie

Lead pitches 2 & 4, grabbed a piece of insitu cord on the second pitch
Lev - AltLd dog - 14/Sep/04 with Spen

Hidden - Lead β - 03/Jul/03

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Apr/03

simon kimber - AltLd O/S - 2002

Billg - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/00 with Hayden Griffiths

Tim M - AltLd O/S - 2000 with Phil T

Hidden - AltLd - 1997

Roget - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/96 with jon

Justin Tracey - AltLd - 1996 with Stu Ingram

WB - AltLd O/S - Jul/94 with Geoff

sdht - 1994

mikej - 2nd - 21/Aug/92 with Andy March

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Aug/91

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/May/91

Marti999 - AltLd - 1990

Hidden - Lead - 25/Jun/89

ChrisJD - Lead dnf - 14/Apr/89

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 02/Nov/85

Hidden - 14/Oct/81

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Ash Sayers, hutchay, Pathological_Climber, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Owen W-G, Hidden, 3 Names, vertigo714, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, tobydunford, poey50, SamStokes, bpmclimb, Bux

Voting
Total votes cast 77
hard E30 of 30
E32 of 30
easy E33 of 30
hard E27 of 30
E218 of 30
easy E20 of 30
hard E10 of 30
E10 of 30
easy E10 of 30
hard 6b0 of 23
6b0 of 23
easy 6b0 of 23
hard 6a3 of 23
6a15 of 23
easy 6a3 of 23
hard 5c1 of 23
5c1 of 23
easy 5c0 of 23
3 Stars20 of 24
2 Stars4 of 24
1 Star0 of 24
0 Stars0 of 24
Bag of .....0 of 24
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Style of ascent

Lead35 of 118 (29.7%)
Followed13 of 118 (11.0%)
Alt Leads62 of 118 (52.5%)
Unknown8 of 118 (6.8%)

'Climbed'37 of 118 (31.4%)
clean O/S46 of 118 (39.0%)
clean β2 of 118 (1.7%)
clean rpt6 of 118 (5.1%)
dogged23 of 118 (19.5%)
dnf4 of 118 (3.4%)