Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.
GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.
North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made.
All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.
Dates: 1 March to 15 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.
Peregrins nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pithes of left hand route (from the great ledge)
Rockfax Description
Three contrasting pitches. The start is bold to the first break but good protection is available after this. Start directly behind a tall tree, 5m right of a notice board bolted to the wall and left of a line of bolts. (The line of Never Say Never Again).
1) 5b, 26m. Climb boldly to a horizontal break and then up past more breaks to a peg. Head up and left to the base of an arete and a ledge. From a ledge above, pull out right (thread) and ascend on good holds to a ledge and peg belays.
2) 5b, 16m. From a block on the ledge, move up to a crack-line and follow it to its end under a wall (peg). Thin moves up the wall (peg) end under unstable ground, from where moves out left and up through trees and vegetation reach a tree belay at a corner.
3) 5c, 15m. Head up left to a left-leading groove (peg) and climb it (bolt) to a break. Continue up (peg) to a ledge and a bolted belay - shared with Cheetah. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
An exquisite climb, never really struggling for good protection (apart from first few moves). The last pitch is a dream. Looks much harder than it is. Once committed the moves appear.
Bristol Crack School , Wye Valley Starred E1-E3
User | Date | Notes | ||
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plant_based_tommo | 25 Jun, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Pegs and in situ thread were in good nick 25.06.23 | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Pegs and in situ thread were in good nick 25.06.23 |
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VezzaD | 18 Jun, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Very happy with leading the first and final pitches of this as not only my first E2 multipitch but also my first E2 onsight! The first bold section wasn't as scary once I saw the finger-jug-side-pull at the crux. Last section is DEFINITELY harder if you can't reach the break to the final peg (cry), was so close to coming off, did some super odd moves to reach the break. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Very happy with leading the first and final pitches of this as not only my first E2 multipitch but also my first E2 onsight! The first bold section wasn't as scary once I saw the finger-jug-side-pull at the crux. Last section is DEFINITELY harder if you can't reach the break to the final peg (cry), was so close to coming off, did some super odd moves to reach the break. |
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Grade: E2 5b ***
(Shorn Cliff)