UKC

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The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.

Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 April to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

Rockfax Description
The rib between Alta Vista and Beeline has some good fingery climbing. Two pegs show the way in the mid-section. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The blunt arete left of the dirty wide corner. Some old pegs protect.

Ticklists

Wye Valley Starred E1-E3

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Guidebooks for Shorn Cliff

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 8
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Brain Smasher

Grade: E3 6a ***
(Coaley Wood Crag)

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