UKC

Restricted Access

Bearacleave Wood is owned by the National Trust and contains some fantastic quality bouldering with something for everyone. Access problems have arisen recently at this and other bouldering areas on Dartmoor due mainly to excessive cleaning of boulders, but also some other issues. Please follow the Respect the Rock code as well as the following site specific access code of conduct:  

  • No new development - there are in excess of 700 exisiting lines across Bovey Woods as a whole and further development would mean more cleaning and removal of important mosses and lichens. This is a real concern to the landowners and continued development and new cleaning could result in loss of access.

  • Keep cleaning to a minimum. A completely clean boulder might look good to a climber, but to the landowner it looks a lot like environmental damage. Keep individual holds clean, don't strip entire faces of vegetation.

  • Chalk really stands out in the environment, so remove as much as possible from the rock before leaving a problem.

  • Please don't use this area for lantern sessions (night bouldering) - this has been a contributing factor in the developing access concerns of the landowner.

  • Take your litter home with you as well as any other litter in the area. This includes things like pieces of finger tape which can be easily forgotten.

Rockfax Description
From the low flat hold, traverse up left on good holds to pull over on a proper jug handle. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The hand traverse line on the left face. Start low on the obvious flat hold and traverse good holds until it is possible to move up to an obvious "thread" jug.

Tom Rainbow.

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Guidebooks for Bovey Woods

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High f5+
Mid f5+
Low f5+
High f5
Mid f5
Low f5
High f4+
Mid f4+
Low f4+
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Horn

Grade: f5 ***
(Hound Tor)

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