110m, 5 pitches.
An ancient route brought screaming into the modern age. This makes a 3* outing, well worth checking out if low lying snow and a constant low level freeze create the necessary conditions.
Start just above & right of the true base of the ridge, 5m above the rowan sapling, at an obvious rock spike belay. Lots of grade I ground over snow covered scree to get to it.
P1 30m 6 The 'Irvine' alternative. This is the only pitch not to follow the original route. Just to the left of the belay lies a steep heathery groove, ascend this with interest to a large ledge at 8m. Move up & right onto the arete. Fix gear & traverse/bridge left across to a wide crack (& thread) which leads to the top of a small pillar. Above is a wall with some lines of turf. The upper half is bounded on the right by an obvious flake crack. This gives sustained but well protected climbing to heathery ledges & then back right to a spacious belay on a selection of spikes, threads & a huge spike on the arete.
P2 20m 4 From the left side of the huge spike move up to slightly slabbier ground. Gain the arete, following this and the groove above with continual interest, exposure & great gear to another spacious ledge.
P3 30m 7 Well protected (with micro wires) thin moves lead onto the face, with jaw dropping exposure for good measure. Sustained, well protected, climbing on thin hooks & torques lead up & rightwards across the wall to a series of small flakes & spikes which are followed to a ledge with some hollow sounding flakes & spikes. Climb more easily up to another spacious belay ledge below the final headwall.
P4 12m 5 The wall and groove/crack above prove tricky to enter but difficulties ease with height. Another spacious ledge awaits.
P5 18m 2 Follow the ridge in a tremendous position across spikes & flakes to one last pull over the heathery top to the summit. It's possible to run these last 2 pitches together without much problem.
Start just above & right of the true base of the ridge, 5m above the rowan sapling, at an obvious rock spike belay. Lots of grade I ground over snow covered scree to get to it.
P1 30m 6 The 'Irvine' alternative. This is the only pitch not to follow the original route. Just to the left of the belay lies a steep heathery groove, ascend this with interest to a large ledge at 8m. Move up & right onto the arete. Fix gear & traverse/bridge left across to a wide crack (& thread) which leads to the top of a small pillar. Above is a wall with some lines of turf. The upper half is bounded on the right by an obvious flake crack. This gives sustained but well protected climbing to heathery ledges & then back right to a spacious belay on a selection of spikes, threads & a huge spike on the arete.
P2 20m 4 From the left side of the huge spike move up to slightly slabbier ground. Gain the arete, following this and the groove above with continual interest, exposure & great gear to another spacious ledge.
P3 30m 7 Well protected (with micro wires) thin moves lead onto the face, with jaw dropping exposure for good measure. Sustained, well protected, climbing on thin hooks & torques lead up & rightwards across the wall to a series of small flakes & spikes which are followed to a ledge with some hollow sounding flakes & spikes. Climb more easily up to another spacious belay ledge below the final headwall.
P4 12m 5 The wall and groove/crack above prove tricky to enter but difficulties ease with height. Another spacious ledge awaits.
P5 18m 2 Follow the ridge in a tremendous position across spikes & flakes to one last pull over the heathery top to the summit. It's possible to run these last 2 pitches together without much problem.
Geoff Bennett & Mike Pycroft 27/Mar/2013.
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Route of Interest
Shallow Gully Direct
Grade: VI 5 ***
(Y Lliwedd)