Paradise Lost*** 7b
[Paradise lost, Cheddar. 7b (top pitch), 3 kb]Two pitches: F7a+ (7b+ direct), F7b.
Start at a belay below the left edge of the largest ceiling.

P1. Climb a huge flake to a ledge. Work up leftwards through bulges to a break. Step left for a rest, then move up to a small pillar. From the top of the pillar traverse right to the belay. The direct climbs straight up to the belay from the break.

P2. Follow the groove above to the top.

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, Classic UK F7s.

Photo: Paradise lost, Cheddar. 7b (top pitch) © Brian H
View all 7 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 59 logbooks, and on 39 wishlists.

Supposed to be alternating lead, but ran out of go on my lead of the second pitch.
DorsetGareth - 2nd RP - 22/Jun/15 with Andy Wiseman

Rested on P1, then red pointed P2. Quality climbing in an epic position. Not too hard, plenty of bolts but still feels exposed. A Cheddar must do.
Wise - Lead dog - 22/Jun/15 with Gareth

Linked into one mega pitch, a few extenders, a lot of doubled up QD's and a bit of reversing to take draws out and surprisingly the drag wasn't too bad.
_m.cox_ - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/15 with Tom Harrison

Lead first pitch, but failed at the crux - had spend a bit of time working it out. Top roped the second pitch clean.
DorsetGareth - AltLd dog - 07/Jun/15 with Andy Wiseman

Pitch 2- not sure if was climbing or falling upwards
piken - AltLd O/S - 17/May/15 with Andy

Let P2. Brill! Tho hard with numb hands & feet. It was freezing - def should have taken the clue from name of the crag and startred a couple of hours later.
quiffhanger - AltLd O/S - 16/May/15 with Adam Ryan

O/s the 7a+ pitch I led. Misread the sequence going through the roof on the groove pitch, slipped there.
adam 24 - AltLd - 16/May/15 with Ross

This climb may have just changed my life forever...... what a belter!
tobydunford - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/15 with Harry Martin

Climbed as one long pitch but got awful rope drag, 2nd go extended the 2 clips at the top of first pitch with 4' slings. Probably best to do the 7b+ first pitch if you are going to do it as a mega route ! Anyway, beautiful sunny evening on sunset buttress - unbeatable
James Marshall - Lead RP - 15/Apr/15 with Mike Coles

WB - AltLd O/S - 01/Nov/14 with Andy M

Led both pitches, L1 flash, L2 OS
LucasHarazin - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/14 with Steve Barnard

Great position with some good varied climbing.1st pitch juggy and pumpy, 2nd tenuous bridging. Led both pitches, 1st onsight,2nd flashed but only just!
just one more - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/14 with lucas

managed to lead the 7a+ clean, but cheated shameless up the second pitch to the top.
flashpanther - AltLd dog - 01/Jul/14

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/14

7a+ pitch first redpoint. Pumpy and exposed! Fantastic moves but with some loose rock as you traverse above that roof.
DrGav - Lead RP - 05/Oct/13 with Dave

first pitch only as top one wet
brices - Lead β - 26/Sep/13 with Yan

L1 & L2 in one pitch. Desert island route. Mind blowing. Did the direct by accident, 7b not 7b+.
Jeronimo - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/13

Stunning climb, the most adventurous-feeling bolt clipping I've ever done! Hard crux on the first pitch, only just managed it on second, and then lead the GLORIOUS groove pitch at the top which felt OK, getting used to the exposure and all that I guess. A must-do Cheddar (and British) classic!
Mike Goldthorp - AltLd O/S - 13/May/13 with Cailean Harker

Graham Atkins - AltLd - 13/Jun/12 with will boxen

seconded the 7a+, lead the 7b. Will be back to lead the 7a+ into a different top pitch. Great route!
Tris.w - Lead RP - 25/Mar/12 with Donald

Lead second pitch, superb route on an awesome crag.
John Mcshea - AltLd O/S - 23/Oct/11 with tom rainbow

richiebongo - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/11 with Dan Perrot

1st pitch 1st RP. Fell on top pitch. One to come back to.
Bristoldave - Lead dog - 23/Sep/11 with Pete Polish

Hidden - Lead dog - 23/Sep/11

RP the 7a+ pitch only.
Tomar - Lead RP - 19/Jun/11 with Tom

Great route, but a bit chilly !! P1 is really only 7a
Billg - Lead O/S - 15/May/11 with Will Calvert

willbatho - Lead O/S - 13/May/11

Hidden - 2nd RP - 11/May/11

Hidden - 2nd dog - 07/May/11

Spacetourist - Lead O/S - Apr/11 with Rosea

Rosea Day - 2nd dog - Apr/11 with Thomas Heslam

Hidden - Lead RP - 08/Sep/10

direct on pitch 1 is 7b.
guy xavier percival - Lead β - 25/Jun/10 with paul

P1 direct with a rest. P2 on aid. Nerves seemed to be the main problem.
Paul Robertson - Lead dog - 24/Jun/10 with Guy Percival

Silly fall on the first pitch then on sighted it to the top.
eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/10 with James

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Jun/10

Hidden - 2nd dog - 23/May/10

One hang on P1 when moved too far left; P2 clean.
Dave Turnbull, BMC - AltLd - 16/May/10 with Jiri Sefl (Czech)

Hidden - Lead β - 15/May/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/10

billb - AltLd - May/10 with Rich Smith

Fantastic position & rock, classic! Led 7b pitch.
Rich Kirby - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/10 with Tom Briggs

DNF as fell off seconding the last pitch and tore a massive flap of skin off my finger : (
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - AltLd - 18/Apr/10 with Richard Kirby

just the 7a+ pitch (first hard OS) then into Bird of paradise to work.
James Marshall - Lead O/S - 09/May/09

another one amazing as a long pitch, linking both pitches (doing the dirtect on p1). 7b? not sure the first pitch is worth a plus, easier than p1 of bird of paradise.
Ged Desforges - 2009

Kev Little - Lead O/S - 2009

Amazing! first pitch was alright nice and steady but had a real hard time on pitch 2! Fantastic climbing though well worth its 3 stars!!!
SamStokes - 2nd dog - 21/Sep/08 with Alex Harper

Redpointed P1, worked P2
Paul Robertson - Lead dog - 16/Sep/08 with Peter Shepherd

eddieclimb - Lead O/S - Sep/08 with Tom Harrison

First pitch only (7a+)
Paz - 2nd rpt - 14/May/08 with CS

Hidden - 2007

Lead P1 onsight (steady 7a+), but frigged P2 seconding - holds at a shakeout were wet (but it would still have been too hard if dry).
Paz - 2nd dog - 07/Oct/06 with AS

linked both pitches. awesome!!!
westyb3 - Lead O/S - Oct/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/06

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Sep/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - May/05

Hidden - Lead dnf - 06/Mar/05

frank ramsay - Lead - 1990

Hidden - Lead - 1981

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
TomJ, Robheirene, max_dickens, lewisrichardson, dominic lee, stp, Luuuuuke, flashpanther, DrGav, Palmer, keithpeck, Seraphic8x, mloskot, j4star, iforwms, web10steelj, Nick Russell, Ross Davidson, marcduhig, tommytuffa, TiffTiff, Billg, Chubbard

Total votes cast 39
hard 7b+0 of 19
7b+0 of 19
easy 7b+0 of 19
hard 7b0 of 19
7b16 of 19
easy 7b3 of 19
hard 7a+0 of 19
7a+0 of 19
easy 7a+0 of 19
3 Stars17 of 20
2 Stars3 of 20
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP