Three pitches: F6b, F6b+, F6b+
The first 45m pitch can be split at a 2-bolt belay.
Start below sunset buttress. Take the line of bolts on the far right (looking at crag). at top veer right. belay. Climb right again into groove. make tricky moves up groove and trend right along break. belay on top of pinnacle. take bolts and pegs up the wall in front of you until an awkward traverse left past two bolts and a finish up a chossy groove on to the terrace.

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Cheddar Intermediate.

Benjaminblanc 03/Oct AltLd

Ben Phillips lead pitches 1+2. I lead pitch 3 but had a cheeky pull on gear on the step across. Great route but nasty top out. I finished on a bolt to the left before going over the top, could have done with extending that one. Look out for ticks up there btw.......

ben.phillips 03/Oct AltLd O/S

Led pitches 0.5 and 3. Started following another line of bolts going high on pitch 3 and then had to down climb to get back on track. Really good route!

Hidden 07/Sep Lead O/S
holister 27/Jun Lead O/S

Great views

with Si, andy
Phil Murray 27/Jun AltLd rpt

SPeed ascent record for us - 85 mins. Brilliant.

with Steve Wright
Kap 21/Jun AltLd

Lead 1st (45m) & 3rd pitch

with Sean
Hidden 16/Jun Lead O/S
EllieWoods 16/Jun 2nd O/S
with pete belfield
s0458892 11/Jun Lead dog

Good. Soft 6b+. Messed up the traverse by going too low. Top pitch is the best

patrickcd 12/May AltLd O/S

First pitch has hardest moves.

with Yura
Paul Baller 10/May Lead O/S
with matt stevens
Caspian Johnson 10/May Lead O/S
with Nick Jones
Ellis Butler-Barker 26/Apr AltLd O/S
Charlotte Warner 26/Apr AltLd O/S
bonelessivar 22/Apr Lead dog

Led all 3. Fell on the 1st and 2nd pitches. Bit gutted as neither are that hard. Think I traversed too high on pitch 2. Great route.

with Alan
wurzelinzummerset 22/Apr 2nd dog

Evening climb so just tried to get up it as quick as I could, which included a bit of draw-pulling on the harder bits. One definite crux on each pitch, most of the remainder was fairly straightforward.

with Ric
Hidden 17/Apr AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Feb AltLd O/S
i_a_coops 03/Nov/14 Lead rpt
with Jenny
kennythescot 13/Oct/14 Lead dog
with Luke Robinson
philipbwilliams 12/Oct/14 2nd
with Tanya, Steve Wright
youwillfindjimbo 12/Oct/14 AltLd O/S
with Dan Ely
leobold ?/Oct/14 Lead dog
with Matt Davis
PalfreyN 23/Sep/14 AltLd RP
johncoxmysteriously 21/Sep/14 Lead

Nice - strange grades, though. The second pitch is never 6b+ and the first one (6a+ in the guide) is harder than either of the other two. The 'weirdly jammed ledge' on pitch two moves - not sure if it's supposed to - but didn't actually fall out.

Tru 21/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Fun climb top pitch is definitely the best. Make sure to use furthest belay to the right on pitch one. Asked Rory to be my best man at the top.

halfwaythere 21/Sep/14 2nd dog

Seconded this; fell on the second pitch as moved across to belay and third pitch on traverse as went left to join another, bolted line near the top. Thoroughly enjoyed it.

with john
felixizzy 14/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

1st & 3rd Pitch.

with Mike
Hidden 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Paul Eckton 08/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with steve read
brices 29/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Llinos
Rob Morgan 25/Jun/14 2nd dog
Hidden 20/Jun/14 Lead rpt
luke harvie 15/Jun/14 Lead O/S

actually fluffed the crux on the first pitch - putting that down as a warm up! lead p2+3 clean. great route, great views. p2 i'd say was only a 6b+ if you climb above the shelf that runs level with the terrace - very trick balance traverse then. easier if you step across to the break earlier.

Digga 15/Jun/14 2nd dog

Peeled off the tricky bulge crux on P1 and fell in the chimney last move of P2 (luckily leader clipped first bolt on Sunsations to protect this). Awesome route though, I'll be back. Great views, good exposure and good abseil off too!

magicmartin 13/Apr/14 2nd dnf

Perry lead this and I came up 2nd with Zane. The first pitch (Missing first bolt belay) Wasn't too bad at all but the 2nd crux pitch I REALLY struggled with and ending up pulling on gear. It was late so we Abseiled down from the terrace. One for another day!!

with Perry Adams, Zane Butcher
Kap 12/Apr/14 Lead dnf

Lead first two pitches clean, backed off the third due to time.

chrisweight 16/Mar/14 AltLd dog

Led the first pitch, messed up the crux sequence and peeled off, rest of it was clean. Mark led the last two pitches in damned good style. 6b+ and 2 stars seems about right. Fine climb, especially worth doing if you add a pitch-black ab-off with headtorches left at the bottom of the crag ;)

with Mark Challoner
budchawla 15/Mar/14 AltLd

Led P1 - messed up the crux. The rest was pretty smooth apart from slight flutters at the P3 crux. P2 felt soft. Fun route, well worth it - just under 3 hours round trip. Damn nettles.

Tommyads ??/2014 -
Nick Russell 26/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Led the top two pitches. A great route with awesome exposure on P3

with Jack
Richezzz 25/Jun/13 2nd O/S

amazing climb, a really nice climb to end the day think we did it in just under 3 hours or just over :)

markfromstoke 19/May/13 Lead
with Norman
Norman_P_W 19/May/13 AltLd
markfromstoke 24/Apr/13 -

Pitch 1 and 2

with Norman
Norman_P_W 24/Apr/13 -
Didymus 20/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
with Marcus
beardy mike ??/2013 -
Hidden 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
MikeC59 07/Sep/12 Lead

First two pitches only, lowered from Utopia terrace due to visit to osteopath day before! Bulge on first pitch needs thinking followed by bold approach I found.

with Kuang
jiggerypokery 05/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Led all pitches, awesome but rank, rank top-out. Any pegs or whatever to the right are well overgrown with Ivy

tommytuffa 05/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Libby
mountain_jay 19/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

lead 1&3. Tricky crux on 1st pitch for 6a.

Pippa 19/Jun/12 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Gareth Bowen 27/May/12 Lead dog

Fell at the end of P2 with a silly error in route reading. P1 and 3 onsight.

with Matt Hawes
Hidden 25/May/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/May/12 AltLd O/S
MarcT ?/May/12 Lead dog

Lead all 3 pitches. Waved to open topped bus at top of first. Clipped a rusty piton at the top of 3rd because of lack of bolts and, well, why not. Small shower a couple of times.

with Duncan S
ian d f 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Mark
markfromstoke 15/Apr/12 2nd dog
with Ian
Hidden 15/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
grp 30/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Nov/11 AltLd
Justin T 06/Nov/11 AltLd O/S


with Cherry
Hidden 06/Nov/11 AltLd O/S
robertcunningham86 15/Oct/11 2nd dog

Tim Howell

paddymitton 02/Oct/11 Lead

Bloody brilliant fun route.

robbie Warke 25/Sep/11 Lead O/S


with Jamie Parfrey
drcorbasisgod 11/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
Luke Dawson 15/Jun/11 -
benkelsey 28/May/11 AltLd rpt

Lead the easy pitch (2) having done it before I let Remus have the good ones. Had work for 9 hours and finished at 10 pm. Picked Remus up at 11 and started by just gone 11.30 and finished by a tidy 3 a.m up and down. Went off route on the first pitch which resulted in some adventures bramble bashing in the dark.. interesting lead. Night climbing is the best way to do routes for sure, although footwork is fairly tricky. Nice calm leads from Remus all the way. another 10 hours work starting early this morning... :/

Hidden 27/May/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/May/11 AltLd O/S
BenRyle 21/May/11 Lead O/S
Ant Parkes 21/May/11 Lead dog
with ryler89
CharlotteMilner 21/May/11 Lead dnf
Hidden 18/May/11 AltLd dnf
just one more 18/May/11 Lead
with tony l
Hidden 07/May/11 2nd dog
DrGav 16/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Good fun. Quite cruxy on all 3 pitches (did it in four). Think 6b, 6b+,6b+ is fair. Both the 6b+ pitches had their cruxes on traverse sections, although the final pitch well-protected for the second at that point. Both took some working out! The final pitch had a bit of a runout at the end with 2 rusty pegs providing some mild comfort...

with Dave
David Martin 16/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Surprisingly tough. F6b+ seems fair. P1 was interesting and fun and P2 can be a little sketchy moving up to the belay stance. P3 took focus; no ring anchors on the rock, rather topping out on to the grass to a good tree anchor - results in a substantial run out from the last bolt, through two rusty pegs, and up on to the grass.

with DrGav
Hidden 08/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
willbatho 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S
philmcf ?/Mar/11 AltLd dog

Lead 1st and 2nd. First ever multipich, great climb!

Pete Rigby ?/Feb/11 AltLd

Freezing cold in the middle of the night. Very good fun!

with Jim Tan
_m.cox_ ?/Nov/10 AltLd O/S
arandall 06/Oct/10 2nd dog
benkelsey 06/Oct/10 Lead

Fantastic Climbing - dry and almost sunny. weirdly the first pitch felt the hardest. Had an interesting moment with Alex falling just before the pinnacle - fortunately he left in the draw first!! having a slack belay I headed out away from the pinnacle. Great moves on all of the pitches - exposed but not in a bad way. Abbed down in 6! as we onlt had one 50meter rope, very slick though and got down in under half an hour.

Hidden 02/Oct/10 2nd dog
mrtom 25/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
with Mike Stephenson, Mike Moss
jacobjacob 12/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

lead pitch 2, lots of fun. With Jenni and Ian.

thomb 23/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Jim Brooke 19/Jun/10 AltLd
with Rich
richiebongo 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Nick Smith
DorsetGareth 17/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Pip lead first and fourth, I lead second & third pitch as one to pass other climbers (wouldn't recommend due to rope drag!). Great route, esp last pitch.

with Pip
Leeds 17/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/10 -
Hidden 21/May/10 AltLd O/S
Dr Caterpillar 21/May/10 AltLd dog
with Harry
Dan Jenkin 15/May/10 AltLd O/S
with Gordon Jenkin
Hidden 28/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
Campbell.D ?/Apr/10 AltLd dog

first multi pitch climb enjoyed so much onsited 2nd pitch. need to re do with no falls soon

with Grant, sash
Phil Murray 14/Mar/10 2nd dog

So cold had to take a break on top pitch! Very thin...

with Fenella, Steve Wright
brices ??/2010 Lead
WillRees ??/2010 2nd β

My first climb at Avon

with Tom White, Gav
Rosea Day ??/2010 AltLd O/S
with Thomas Heslam
Hidden ??/2010 -
Paul Bowen 18/Oct/09 AltLd O/S

me p1&3 john p2

with John James
Mowglee 01/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Thought the first pitch was hardest! No way the 2nd two are 6b+, I'd say 6b, 6b, 6a+

with Andy Tobin
jlgoddard 28/Sep/09 2nd β

first pitched route, awesome!!!

andy dunn 24/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

J led P1, I led P2 & P3 If you don't remember a set of wires then you're faced with a fairly run out section on pitch 3. Really enjoyed the route!

with J
tobydunford 05/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Greg Pittam 05/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with Andrew Bitmead
Hidden 04/Jul/09 Lead rpt
Jack R-N 16/Jun/09 AltLd β
with James
Gareth 13/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 1 last year. Pitch 2 by me, pitch 3 by Andy.

with Andrew
andybenham 13/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Red pointed 1st pitch after falling last year seconding it in the rain. Clean second on second pitch Led third pitch onsight. Awsome route. All pitches good and all have an exciting crux move or two ... the traverse at the top of the corner on pitch three is especially memorable

Tim M 12/Jun/09 Lead O/S

P1 only

with Steve W
Paz 21/May/09 Lead dnf

P1 only.

with TS2
billb ?/May/09 AltLd O/S
A-dog ??/2009 -
chockstone ?/Oct/08 AltLd dog

pitch 1/2 lead clean onsight. pitch 3 lead, hung on gear once. pitch 4 seconded clean no falls.

with Eric Herring
Hidden 24/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
SamStokes 21/Sep/08 Lead O/S

Pitch 1 then moved across to Paradise

with Alex Harper
Chubbard 21/Sep/08 2nd rpt
with C Godfrey
Hidden 20/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Paz 20/Sep/08 AltLd rpt

Lead P1

with WG
ericinbristol ?/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

S P1 (L P1 in 04/11), S P2, L P3.

with Tom
just one more 29/Jun/08 Lead
with tim b
Hidden 25/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
JimR 13/Jun/08 2nd
with Charles H
Chubbard 13/Jun/08 Lead O/S


John Southworth 07/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
with Jason Parker
Kev Little ??/2008 Lead O/S
steve taylor 11/Mar/07 AltLd O/S

Led middle pitch - excellent climbing all the way, and hard all the way too.

Marti999 11/Mar/07 Lead
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden 11/Mar/06 2nd dog
Fat Tim 11/Mar/06 Lead O/S

I lead all the pitches

with Nick Ingram, Mark kauntz
Hidden 04/Mar/06 AltLd dog
Spacetourist ??/2006 2nd O/S
with Ed Heslam
just one more 27/Nov/04 Lead
with tim b
Hidden 21/Oct/04 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball ?/Feb/04 AltLd
with Stu Bradbury
Paz ?/Feb/04 AltLd O/S
with AS
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High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 36
Votes cast 32
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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