Rockfax Description
Roche Rock's finest climb. Start at a wide crack which curves to the left at mid-height.
Climb the crack to a corner where the rock steepens. Bridge up the corner and pull steeply up right, using good holds into a niche. Move up the crack on the right to easier ground and finish leftwards. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The direct variation of Moping Owl. Start as for Moping Owl, and climb the crack directly for 15ft, then the short corner and overhang above by pulling directly into the groove. Follow this and the short slab to the top of the buttress.

R Lambourne & M Dunning 27/Jun/1974

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

robertmills4 21/Sep Lead O/S
with Katie Welch
Hidden 19/Sep Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Sep Lead
Master Chief 01/Sep Lead rpt
with Jeremy
Hidden 16/Aug Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Aug Lead
emc110502 16/Aug 2nd O/S

A steep and awkward roof

lukesh 14/Aug Lead
Shannyb 25/Jul 2nd O/S
alex goodall 25/Jul Lead O/S
with Shannyb
robertcollier 18/Jul Lead dnf

Got scared by the crux

with Emily Collier
stalbot93 03/Jul Lead O/S
IsBrad 03/Jul 2nd dog
ginl11 03/Jul 2nd dnf

Couldn't pass the crux.

clams ?/Jul Lead
with Cat, Doug and Coral
CatMc ?/Jul 2nd
with clams
bpw666 28/Jun Lead dnf

Did the crux but didn't go... Couldn't find gear, chicken out, down climbed the crux (twice) then lowered off. Good moved solid climbing but wasn't comfortable enough above gear that I wasn't 100% on.

James Lamb 15/Jun Lead dog
Hidden 14/Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jun 2nd O/S
HazelMacLean 11/Jun Lead O/S

Climbed with Steph. Not sure its 3 stars but it was fun. Finished just before the rain hit!

with UBMC
STipuric ?/Jun 2nd O/S
Lancer 28/May Lead O/S

A great last climb for the night- it was just getting dark.

with Steve D
iainstap ?/May Lead
andrea83 23/Apr 2nd rpt
with Hamish
Hamish777 23/Apr Lead O/S

Once you commit to the crux then GO! Lovely climb.

with Andrea
phil456 21/Apr 2nd rpt
with Graham M
Jake glenn 12/Apr Lead
Hidden 11/Apr Lead O/S
Norman_P_W 07/Apr Lead
with CSW
Chrismaccers ?/Apr Lead O/S
Listy35 30/Mar 2nd O/S
with Nico Jones
DredStripe 04/Jan 2nd O/S
with Tom
kingholmesy ??/2015 Solo O/S
WilliamD 19/Dec/14 Lead O/S

Lovely climb and amazing venue. Well protected until the top half.

with Francesca
Matt Smith 19/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Oct/14 Lead O/S
runwildjohn 18/Sep/14 TR

Self belay

Jack J Keogan 10/Sep/14 Lead rpt
with Luke Nolan, Ben Price
derryclimbs ?/Sep/14 -

Lovely moves. committing and varied. I would never get tired of the stair case descent either. what a great venue

Alex Hallam 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Rosie Hoare
Hidden 31/Aug/14 2nd
JazS 30/Aug/14 2nd
Hidden ?/Aug/14 TR β
Chubbs 25/Jul/14 Lead
Radical-G 15/Jul/14 Lead O/S
badgerjockey 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Luke
JordanH 26/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Merlin 25/Jun/14 2nd rpt
with Phil Chalkley
climbhannahclimb 23/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Mark Barrett
Hidden 18/Jun/14 Lead O/S
JordanH 18/Jun/14 Lead O/S
JordanH 18/Jun/14 2nd
maddy92 16/Jun/14 Lead O/S
steve-grigg 16/Jun/14 Lead O/S
helen.baldwin 16/Jun/14 2nd O/S
EmileCilliers 09/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/14 Solo rpt
neilstubbs 05/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Stefan Parkin
Oli 27/May/14 Lead O/S
with Andy Hammond
lucyh 26/May/14 2nd

Out of breath by the top. Tricky move into the niche

Poco Loco 26/May/14 Lead dog

Climbed down from mid crux to check gear and got pumped. I think that this is a really good route. The crux looks intimidating, but the holds are there when you go for in. Well protected too.

with Lucy
Hidden 23/May/14 2nd rpt
manbat 23/May/14 Lead O/S

Not sure this is worth a star, but not a bad little route. Easy moves, but a little intimidating moving out of the corner.

snook 18/May/14 Lead rpt
with V
Valentine 18/May/14 2nd O/S

Nice first climb of the day. Chilled route, even with a painful toe!

supersouthward 18/May/14 -
with valentine verrijken, Selen Thyssen, alex snook cox
guy757 17/May/14 -
Skullfire 05/May/14 Lead O/S
with Jun Minohara
strudles 05/May/14 Lead O/S
thom_jenkinson 03/May/14 Lead O/S

Really fun - lovely moves pulling into niche

emilyjhunt 03/May/14 2nd
Hidden 02/May/14 2nd O/S
steven703 ?/May/14 Lead
BigJ 26/Apr/14 Lead O/S

A great climb and the best I have done this year.Recommend this one to anyone looking for a challenge! A beautiful route on amazing rock at a stunning location.Well worth a visit!

with Lee Pearce
Ali Mortazavi 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
scott.hill 18/Apr/14 2nd O/S
chasingthelotus 14/Apr/14 TR O/S
with looloo
Justin T 13/Apr/14 2nd
with Nancy
Hidden 13/Apr/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 09/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Mar/14 2nd rpt
froggs88 19/Feb/14 Lead O/S
Mpaynter 19/Feb/14 Lead O/S
sam0000 ?/Feb/14 Solo rpt
Wendy Watthews 19/Jan/14 2nd rpt
with joe c
JoeCoxson 19/Jan/14 Lead rpt

Been on the list for a while. Toproped it a year and a bit ago when just learning to lead. Enjoyable moves that feel quite exposed.

ChrisGard 11/Jan/14 Lead O/S
Ribbit 10/Jan/14 Lead
with Tom
whiteexplorer 10/Jan/14 2nd O/S
with Dave Piper
Robin Woodward ?/Jan/14 Lead
Jen_George ??/2014 -
Mark Kemball 30/Dec/13 2nd
Jelly Mould Surfer 29/Dec/13 Lead O/S

Quite a stiff set of moves getting into the niche and then pulling up the steep wall on rounded holds.....or it just might be the impact of Christmas

Joel Perkin 29/Dec/13 Lead dnf
with Dad
nickdonohue 29/Dec/13 Lead

awkward for grade

with Jim Barritt
kn 29/Dec/13 2nd

really enjoyed

stephen ashworth 30/Nov/13 Lead
with caroline blackmore
tracyclimber 29/Nov/13 Lead O/S

Great climb. Crux good once my hand was high enough - made more fun by my 2nd holding a DIY conversation with me.

with Graham Sullivan
nath_casper 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with mark
omaskrey 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with Jonny Dry
Hidden 06/Oct/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/13 Lead
BethanWhite 31/Aug/13 2nd
with Aeron
Merlin 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Polly Withers
Hellflame 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S
timreynolds 25/Aug/13 Lead
Desi Gillespie 25/Aug/13 2nd
with Andy Mackay
Hidden 11/Aug/13 2nd
snook 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Great line. One of the best of the day for sure.

A Walker 07/Aug/13 2nd O/S
chrisweight 03/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Jackislav 03/Aug/13 2nd
angie 30/Jul/13 2nd
with Paul turner
Felix Ottey 23/Jul/13 Lead O/S
MinHazeldine 21/Jul/13 2nd
Marktrin 06/Jul/13 2nd
with Phil
phil456 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Mark G
Hidden 30/Jun/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 30/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/13 2nd rpt
Kevster 27/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Lizzie
Hidden 26/Jun/13 Lead β
EmileCilliers 10/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/13 TR
Hidden 08/Jun/13 2nd rpt
BelayBunney 08/Jun/13 Lead rpt
Ian JL 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/13 2nd
Hidden 21/May/13 -
Hidden 21/May/13 -
mark sharples 09/May/13 Lead O/S

About 40 mph winds made it interesting!

Jack J Keogan 06/May/13 Lead O/S
with Lottie Thorne
stuieb123 06/May/13 2nd O/S

great climbing, beautiful rock. first time being at roche and some the holds and great. all in all great climb.

Lottie Thorne 06/May/13 2nd O/S
Binder 04/May/13 Lead O/S
with Dave J, JT
Hidden 04/May/13 2nd O/S
Merrick796 ?/May/13 Lead
M_Payne 02/Apr/13 2nd
Jackislav 26/Mar/13 -
DanielGyi 25/Mar/13 2nd O/S
with Xander Cullum
Hidden 25/Mar/13 2nd O/S
Fletch 23/Mar/13 2nd O/S
with Matthew Robinson
Matthew Robinson 17/Mar/13 Solo
Hidden ??/2013 Lead O/S
willc91 ??/2013 -
Chilidog ??/2013 Lead
with Louis street
Jamo Walker 07/Dec/12 2nd O/S
with Simon Hamond
Maywood96 30/Nov/12 TR O/S
Hidden 19/Nov/12 TR
Josh Hadley 21/Oct/12 2nd
Skip 16/Oct/12 2nd dog
Cheese Monkey 16/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Lovely lovely and tricky moves into the niche. Fun!

with Skip
Maywood96 15/Oct/12 TR β

Done on a very wet and blustery day, but a really nice climb none the less

arandall 07/Oct/12 Lead rpt
with CUC Climbing Club
arandall 06/Oct/12 TR rpt
with CUC Climbing Club
gingerking ?/Oct/12 Lead rpt
Luxulyan ?/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Kev Brown
neilstubbs 29/Sep/12 TR O/S

Teaching Treve to climb (and belay me!)

with Treve Hosken
s.scott 06/Sep/12 Lead O/S
en7edh 30/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Knackered from the wild camp and night nav on Dartmoor so mentally wasn't up for it and struggled. Cadets found it tough.

JamesGibson 29/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with ToddB
Hidden 24/Aug/12 Lead O/S
crag_hopper_Jay 13/Aug/12 Lead O/S
sunshine.hannah 13/Aug/12 2nd
Hidden 12/Aug/12 Lead O/S
callum brown 09/Aug/12 Lead β
TimBrazier 04/Aug/12 TR O/S
martin clarke 01/Jul/12 Lead
Hidden 28/Jun/12 2nd rpt
Dilwat 12/Jun/12 Lead rpt
with Dave P, Tony P
georgedunton 11/Jun/12 Lead O/S
samfayers 11/Jun/12 2nd O/S
with Dunton
sce8 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Niall McGarrigle, Helen Savage
aljezurusrf08 02/Jun/12 2nd dog
with Willow
SurferStan 22/May/12 Lead O/S
whiteexplorer 22/May/12 2nd O/S
with SurferStan
Westcorkman 11/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Bob Dawson
1906johns 05/Apr/12 Lead
rustaldo 02/Apr/12 2nd O/S
orangejames 02/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/12 Lead
Hidden 30/Mar/12 Lead
Hidden 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S
JamesGibson 16/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Jordon
JoeMortimer 13/Mar/12 Lead
Alex Steele 13/Mar/12 2nd
Fear2482 ?/Mar/12 TR
ewanthomson 29/Feb/12 Lead O/S

Brilliant Route, bomber gear, felt good

with Steve Salisbury
SteveoS 23/Feb/12 2nd O/S
Spearos 07/Feb/12 2nd rpt
with Mike
arandall 05/Feb/12 Lead rpt
Wendy Watthews 05/Feb/12 2nd
gingerking ?/Feb/12 2nd O/S
gingerking ?/Feb/12 Lead O/S
with Amber Thornton
Hidden 29/Jan/12 Lead
Jordon Fleming 28/Jan/12 Lead O/S
mike hooper 07/Jan/12 2nd β

first climb of the year for joby. Not bad for a warm up route..

with jobey martin
Joby 07/Jan/12 Lead dog

made a right mess of this, head in completely the wrong place!

with Mike Hooper
sam0000 01/Jan/12 Lead rpt

1st lead in wet wind and hail hows that!!!

ollie_e ?/Jan/12 2nd
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
scmertes ??/2012 Lead O/S
with Matt Barns
Sam4242 ?/Dec/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Nov/11 2nd dog
Geoboy 21/Nov/11 TR O/S
ripoffthemonkey 08/Nov/11 TR O/S
paco 07/Nov/11 TR β
oowhey000 07/Nov/11 TR
John Procter 05/Nov/11 Lead O/S
tom parsons 28/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Paco
paco 28/Oct/11 2nd O/S
J.Hine 25/Oct/11 2nd
arandall 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
ajsproson 08/Oct/11 Lead
Hidden 03/Oct/11 2nd O/S
alice fuller 29/Sep/11 2nd O/S

Repeat 2nd George 21/1/12

migs493 25/Sep/11 Lead O/S
ollieben 31/Aug/11 -
with harry henson
lmacey 28/Aug/11 Lead O/S
BelayBunney 20/Aug/11 Lead O/S


Hidden 20/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/11 2nd O/S
tobydunford 01/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
hazza ?/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/11 Lead O/S
jac.c123 24/Jul/11 2nd
SamChessell 12/Jul/11 Lead rpt
jacko1485 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Greg
Higher Primate 21/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/11 2nd dnf
Stepanek 19/Jun/11 Lead O/S
zard 19/Jun/11 2nd O/S
JonHarvey 02/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/11 2nd rpt
Montecore 30/May/11 2nd O/S
BenLarby 30/May/11 Lead O/S
PastyBoy84 18/May/11 2nd O/S
with Ben Mayo
Hidden 16/May/11 2nd
Hidden 16/May/11 Lead O/S
Duncan Turner 14/May/11 Lead

interesting slippage!

with stu
Hidden 14/May/11 2nd O/S
SamChessell 14/May/11 Lead O/S
tmather 14/May/11 2nd O/S
with Samuel Chessell
climbhannahclimb 11/May/11 Lead
amyb 10/May/11 2nd
with Jon Smith, Rubber boy Kev
david morse 30/Apr/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 29/Apr/11 Lead O/S
dale1968 29/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Tom
klimmer 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
culmclimberRob 21/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with adrian
Hidden 09/Apr/11 2nd
rockjedi12345 02/Apr/11 Lead O/S
mike hooper 02/Apr/11 2nd O/S

dave dean up for a good lead

with dave dean
SurfingRock ?/Apr/11 2nd O/S
DOVEY 27/Mar/11 Lead
with Fran Cavanil & Sam Maker
tom parsons 26/Mar/11 2nd O/S
with Mike Govier
M govier 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S
cmars89 23/Mar/11 Lead
josh88 23/Mar/11 Lead
Stan011 23/Mar/11 2nd
Hidden 13/Mar/11 Lead O/S
M govier 07/Mar/11 2nd
with James Forbes
Barbie 01/Mar/11 TR
with Midge
Matt Cane 28/Feb/11 TR O/S
titch133 28/Feb/11 TR O/S
Hidden 24/Feb/11 Lead O/S
Ed Babs 22/Feb/11 Lead O/S
with Darren
Spearos 20/Feb/11 Lead rpt
with Kenny
Tom Seccombe 12/Feb/11 Lead O/S
Tj murray 12/Feb/11 Lead
carlgodfrey 12/Feb/11 Lead O/S
mackem 21/Jan/11 Lead
chris687 08/Jan/11 Lead RP

Had worke previously with top rope

Pricey06 ?/Jan/11 Lead O/S
Tj murray ??/2011 -
stevorobs3 ??/2011 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
mark_jee ??/2011 TR
with Vicky
vickytee ??/2011 TR dnf
with Mark
Adam_Jones 22/Nov/10 TR O/S
Laura_S_C 21/Nov/10 TR
with Jo Le Moine
mbradberry2008 21/Nov/10 TR O/S
with Simon Allan
Gibbo 13/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with Andy Strachan
Dave Heaton 06/Nov/10 Lead
Kim Middlebrook 01/Nov/10 -
gingerking ?/Nov/10 TR O/S
Hidden 11/Oct/10 TR dog
Hidden 05/Oct/10 Lead
Luuuuuke 04/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Kris
paddymitton ?/Oct/10 Lead
Hidden 21/Sep/10 2nd O/S
andrea83 21/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Very good climb. Had to take time to place protection around crux.

with Pete
James Mitchelmore 19/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Rock Lizard ?/Sep/10 Lead
Alex T (RAFMA) ?/Sep/10 Lead
with Rimon
edpd1b 31/Aug/10 2nd
crag_monster 31/Aug/10 Lead
crag_monster 31/Aug/10 Lead
Jim Malo 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Barry
fatbuoybazza 30/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with jim
katiep 14/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Alice
Tom Downes 14/Aug/10 Lead O/S

great climb!

Hidden 12/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Freddie 1 12/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Andyh83
jonnyridleylogan ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
PastyBoy84 22/Jul/10 2nd β
with Ben Mayo
Ali.B ?/Jul/10 Solo O/S
erinbastian 24/Jun/10 2nd
with Ken Mayo
TerribleToll 01/Jun/10 TR β

Aided by guidance from Cornish Rock Tors Another interesting move - wedged in corner, put left hand upright, but turned back first, up into crack and used as lever to turn round to face rock and get right arm round the buttress rock. Then grab the big overhang and haul up and round to left.

ParkFace ?/Jun/10 Lead O/S

questionable line

with Ben Mayo
pielander 24/May/10 Lead
with nigel kerr
jakenichol 23/May/10 Lead
haylow 23/May/10 2nd
Hidden 02/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/May/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/10 Lead
Tj murray 04/Mar/10 -
gg4419 ?/Feb/10 Lead O/S
Ice Axe Arrest ??/2010 Lead O/S
with Tom
Hidden 25/Oct/09 2nd
FayeG 24/Oct/09 2nd O/S
with Rory
crobinson 03/Oct/09 Lead

Great climb, crux is tricky for the grade I thought.

Tom Last 03/Oct/09 2nd
with Chester
El3ctroFuzz 03/Oct/09 Solo rpt

Scarier than lord falmouth going round the lava groove!

with Louise Street
pielander 20/Sep/09 TR
berry 20/Sep/09 TR
harvie 28/Aug/09 Solo
Rusty2406 25/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Timmy
Dilwat 10/Jun/09 Lead rpt
with dready
dready ?/Jun/09 2nd
with dillwat
tom.e 21/May/09 -
with Charlie Everett
TheLegoMan 16/Apr/09 TR O/S
Hidden 08/Apr/09 Lead O/S
bodhi.evans 08/Apr/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/Apr/09 2nd
mike hooper 20/Mar/09 2nd
with dave dean
Ed morris 31/Oct/08 TR β
with stefan
TheLegoMan 20/Oct/08 2nd RP
Hidden 11/Oct/08 Solo O/S
El3ctroFuzz 03/Jul/08 Lead rpt

teaching lu how to belay while trying to climb...

with Louise Street
Hidden 29/Jun/08 2nd
noelj 29/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Jane
Dilwat 25/Jun/08 2nd O/S
with dready, surferstan
SurferStan 25/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Master Chief 22/Apr/08 2nd rpt
Hidden 02/Apr/08 Lead
ashskett 14/Feb/08 Lead O/S

My first ever lead climb!

with Craig
Hidden 09/Feb/08 Lead
Master Chief 12/Jan/08 Lead O/S
with Moe
El3ctroFuzz ?/Nov/07 TR O/S
Hidden 30/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Marti999 12/Oct/07 Solo O/S
ccrowle ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
bigbadandyb 29/Jul/07 2nd
with tom shaw
hapymike 04/Jun/07 Lead
Merlin 10/Mar/07 Lead O/S
JackMountains 28/Jan/07 2nd RP
with David Hakes
pmoody ??/2007 Lead
with Jacob Phillips
Hidden ??/2007 Solo O/S
dickjonesocp ??/2007 -
with al
Hidden 01/Nov/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/06 2nd
rockjedi12345 ?/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Stuart
evileye ??/2006 2nd RP
with paul
victim of mathematics 26/Jun/05 2nd O/S
crossdressingrodney 26/Jun/05 Lead O/S
rockjedi12345 ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S
rockjedi12345 ?/Apr/04 Lead O/S
with Pete Sanderson
simon kimber ?/Feb/04 Lead O/S
with Lucy Filce
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
Hidden 01/Nov/03 Lead O/S
rockjedi12345 ?/Jun/03 Lead O/S
with Phil Mathews
Hidden ?/Jan/01 Lead O/S
nickdonohue 08/Apr/00 Lead
with Kath Donohue
Mark Kemball 16/Jun/99 Solo
with Lee Bartrop
andy_pemberton ??/1999 Lead
with Katharine Pemberton
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, PaulRickard, dmetcalfe, Hidden, Danhan, gobbledigook, DaveGoesClimbing, Maywood96, badgerjockey, Kellz, Hidden, humptydumpty, alexporter, Hidden, BerruccI
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
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Votes cast 57
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 52
Votes cast 51
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set