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South East Climb* VD

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[Jon Waters on the first pitch of South East Climb (VD) at the Devil's Jump, 3 kb]25m. One of Bodmin Moor's earliest rock climbs that is set in glorious countryside and provides a good couple of hours entertainment. Start below the wide corner crack at the base of the buttress.. 1) -, 12m. Climb the wide crack and its mossy left wall to a good stance. Dry conditions needed.. 2) -, 12m. Move up and then right above an overhang to below an exposed corner. Climb the corner to the top. To descend - cross the gap and downclimb the short landward wall to the ground. © ROCKFAX
A classic hidden gem route - tranquil location, strong line, varied climbing, and even a mini-summit experience. 3 stars as per the guide. Climb the blatant wide crack by it's slabby sidewall (top end of the grade for initial boldness) to the shoulder. Belay here or be careful to extend runners. Continue up the edge of the buttress via a wall, slab, and groove, all in fine position.

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

Photo: Jon Waters on the first pitch of South East Climb (VD) at the Devil's Jump © Patrick Rushton
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 62 logbooks, and on 8 wishlists.

A real adventure searching for this and well worth it. Very enjoyable :-)
brew_guru - Solo O/S - 02/Aug/14

duckhead - 13/Jul/14

cake girl - 2nd - 12/Jun/14 with climber darlo

lovely first pitch
dmannion - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/14

Sunny and dry
Forrest4556 - 2nd - 16/Apr/14

gg4419 - Lead O/S - 05/Mar/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Nov/13

chris.cottle20 - AltLd O/S - 04/Oct/13

Chris lead the first pitch without much fuss. I lead the second pitch for the first time. An excellent climb again!
jbclimb - AltLd rpt - 05/Sep/13 with Chris Cottle

BethanWhite - 2nd - 31/Aug/13 with Aeron

dellboy - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/13 with Jon Rogerson

Did first half three times, middle exposed bit once and top bit twice. Had to be very careful setting up rope on top, with gusty wind offering a rapid descent. Also rope rub on rock a problem.
Phil Layton - TR O/S - 25/Aug/13 with Ms Grigri

Has a little bit of everything, nothing too testing but a lovely bit of rock.
badgerjockey - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/13

jbclimb - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/13 with Jamo Walker

Jamo Walker - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/13 with Joe Rudman

lukerathmell - Lead - 20/Jun/13 with Rachel Bennett

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/May/13

Hidden - 2nd - 28/May/13

milesturner - AltLd O/S - 16/May/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/13

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Apr/13

Tried to climb with the kids, but 1st pitch too reachy for little arms. did in 1 pitch, not much gear early on. good climbing on pitch 2. great location and views.
mark4344 - Lead O/S - 03/Mar/13 with katie

Ian JL - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/12 with Beth Frampton

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Oct/12

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Sep/12

P1 Sarah, P2 Em
Sarah Welsh - AltLd O/S - 16/Sep/12 with Emma Grant

soloed 2nd pitch 1st pitch wet and mossy
sam0000 - Lead O/S - Aug/12

Evening after work with Kurt. Led first pitch, cool route, good fun, amazing weather.
Tom Last - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/12 with Kurt

whiteexplorer - 2nd O/S - 20/Jul/12 with Kieran, Dave Piper

Hidden - Solo O/S - 13/Apr/12

Hidden - AltLd - Nov/11

nickdonohue - AltLd - Nov/11 with Jim Barritt

BALD EAGLE - Lead - 07/Oct/11 with Sarah Flint, Rob Horler

Felix Ottey - Lead - 10/Sep/11

Hidden - Lead dnf - 24/Aug/11

Great route with a bold start, nice little thread for a sling deep in the crack tho when a little higher! Biggest downer is thats its over all too soon! :-(
benlawlor85 - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/11 with Jack

Fab 1st pitch using the arete of the crack and bridging instead of slab climbing. Nice moves, Very enjoyable.
BB1 - 2nd - 16/Apr/11 with Jamie

josh88 - AltLd - 16/Mar/11 with Craig marsden

cmars89 - AltLd - 16/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Nov/10

extremejim - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/10

jack lead first pitch i lead 2nd
culmclimberRob - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/10 with jack Wolfenden

i lead 1st pitch jack lead 2nd, done this climb as part of my spa assessment.
culmclimberRob - AltLd rpt - 12/Jun/10 with jack Wolfenden

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/May/09

ashskett - 2nd - 05/Dec/08 with James

really wasnt that exciting... err. howd it get 3 stars?!
El3ctroFuzz - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/08 with Charlie Murphy

Hidden - Jun/08

What a great VD 3 star great position for the grade.
Marti999 - Lead O/S - 13/Oct/07 with Tom Thorp

Hidden - Lead - 12/Apr/07

Hidden - 2007

A nice spot, but clearly a joke route.
victim of mathematics - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/05 with crossdressingrodney

crossdressingrodney - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/05 with victim of mathematics

Hidden - Lead - 07/Aug/03

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Dec/01

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/00

andy_pemberton - Lead - Mar/99

whispering nic - Solo O/S - 1998

Hidden - Lead - 1997

colin milton - AltLd - 08/Jan/95 with eric milton

kp64zl - Solo - Apr/92

Mark Kemball - Lead - 1990 with Alison Dorey

Hammy - Solo - 10/Aug/87

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, neilstubbs, Robin Hall, Croakinglizard, Hidden, skipperd7777, crobinson, bluebrad

Voting
Total votes cast 18
hard HVD0 of 9
HVD0 of 9
easy HVD1 of 9
hard VD3 of 9
VD5 of 9
easy VD0 of 9
hard HD0 of 9
HD0 of 9
easy HD0 of 9
3 Stars2 of 9
2 Stars7 of 9
1 Star0 of 9
0 Stars0 of 9
Bag of .....0 of 9
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Style of ascent

Soloed5 of 62 (8.1%)
Lead22 of 62 (35.5%)
Followed10 of 62 (16.1%)
Toproped1 of 62 (1.6%)
Alt Leads21 of 62 (33.9%)
Unknown3 of 62 (4.8%)

'Climbed'28 of 62 (45.2%)
clean O/S31 of 62 (50.0%)
clean rpt2 of 62 (3.2%)
dnf1 of 62 (1.6%)