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The upper cliff had some good trad climbing that is worth looking at if the swell is affecting other areas of the Swanage cliffs. A steady head is needed to deal with the odd loose section of rock but is often better than it looks. One nut crack area has some friendly routes to get you started. The Yellow wall is a big adventure in its self and see few assents, but when the evening light is on it looks amazing.

The boulder field is worth making the long trek with pads to explore, just take it steady down the steep entry slopes.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Restrictions apply from Pier Bottom (the valley north of St Aldhem's Head) to the east arete of The Yellow Wall and from Buttery Corner (the point at which the undercliff below St. Aldhelm's Head gives way to seacliff) to Slippery Ledge.

Rockfax Description
Sit-start using the right edge of the corner-crack and the big pocket on the right. © Rockfax

Feedback

User Date Notes
MattSW68 13 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Definitely soft in the grade but hey I’ll take it. Think the big pocket should be out.
βeta?
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βeta: Definitely soft in the grade but hey I’ll take it. Think the big pocket should be out.
drewish 7 Mar, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Sit adds nothing in difficulty - 6c
βeta?
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βeta: Sit adds nothing in difficulty - 6c

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for St. Aldhelm's Head

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Voting
High f7A+
Mid f7A+
Low f7A+
High f7A
Mid f7A
Low f7A
High f6C+
Mid f6C+
Low f6C+
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 12
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Soloed
Not Set
Redpoint
DNF
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Onsighted
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Mexican Waffle

Grade: f7A ***
(St. Aldhelm's Head)

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