Rockfax Description
The right-hand side of the buttress has this superb and very unlikely looking adventure. It can be started close to high tide with a traverse but is better at mid or low tide.
1) 5a, 15m. Climb a rib then wall to ledges below a steep section. Pull up through protruding blocks to gain the groove above then move up and go left on breaks to a big thread belay.
2) 4c, 25m. Climb the steep groove on massive holds to a break. Move left to some ledges then back right above the lower groove. Finish up the clean wall above and left or the crack. © Rockfax
FA. R.Renshaw, J.Mothersele 25/Jun/1979.
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Mount Sion East)