Doom*** VS 4c
[Pitch 3, Doom., 2 kb]

Rockfax Description
A brilliant line that is incredibly sustained and at the top of the VS grade. The climbing links two huge corner systems to the right of the rib of Acheron. Although appearances would suggest otherwise the amount of vegetation in view does not really get in the way of the climbing.
1) 4c, 36m. Climb the corner until it steepens and then move up right into another shorter corner. Climb the wide crack and then move up and right to a large grass ledge and flake and nut belay.
2) 4c, 28m. Move right and climb a rib to more open ground. Sustained climbing slightly left and then right gains a position below an overhang in the corner. Make an awkward pull over the overhang and climb the corner a few metres to a small block and good nut belays.
3) 4c, 36m. Move up the corner for a couple of metres and step left to a niche on the slab. Follow the excellent crack up the slab and go left to a spike on the arete. Continue up the corner above until it becomes choked with grass and from a good nut make a difficult step left across the slab to easier ground. Climb direct up the slab and then grass to a big tree below bulging rock.
4) 4b, 20m. Pull steeply onto the wall above the right-hand end of the bulging rock and climb a short way on rock before grass and heather lead up to belays in boulders. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
A classic line joining and then following the prominent left facing corner high on Craig Llywelyn.

J A Summer, A Gillis 03/Nov/1968

Ticklists: The 100 Best UK VS routes?.

Photo: Pitch 3, Doom. © caradoc
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This climb is in 38 logbooks, and on 26 wishlists.

I did pitch 1, Kevin ran 2 and the lower has of 3 together due to missing the rotted peg, I finished to top. Good, varied climbing, requiring a thoughtful approach. Quite run out in places. We both felt p2 was the crux - 5a?
davidalcock - AltLd - 03/May/14 with mapperley samurai

Adventurous feel with a fair bit of gardening en route. The belay peg at the top of P2 mentioned in the climbers club guide is no longer usable - just a stub. I continued on, combining pitch 2&3, and finding a good stance on the final slab (approx 50 mtrs combined).
mapperley samurai - AltLd O/S - 03/May/14 with David Alcock

Dry but a lot of veg. Maybe 3 stars if it was clean. Very tough in the wet I should think.
caradoc - AltLd - 31/Aug/13 with john b

TCarrick - Lead - 27/Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/13

My first outdoor fall on pitch 2! Felt pretty tough for the grade with a lot of loose rock and some jungle bashing!
te77yb - 2nd dog - 20/Jul/13

Led p1 and p3. Climbing good but vegetated top out and descent.
MD - AltLd O/S - 07/Jul/13 with Paul H

Led twice in 2013 but still no Archeron
DubyaJamesDubya - Lead O/S - Jun/13

Steve Lenartowicz - Lead - 10/Aug/12 with Clare

Hidden - 2nd - 27/May/12

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Jun/11

Amazing! Best vs so far... i led the very last one (im still a beginner)
xusa - AltLd O/S - 04/May/11 with Gareth Borthwick

Awesome route. With the exception of pitch 2, it's largely clear of veg too!
dansmonkeytroubles - AltLd O/S - 29/Apr/11 with Dave Williams

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Apr/11

Brilliant, just brilliant. Can see why it would be evil in the wet!
seb m-c - 2nd - 03/Sep/10 with Martin Callaghan

twright180 - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/10

Hidden - AltLd - Apr/10

Hidden - Lead - 15/Jun/09

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Jun/09

Althought it says clean onsite, the climb was far from clean lol! was a greta route however!
mlmatt - AltLd - 13/Jun/09 with Uncle Rob, Nicky

This is simply a fantastic route in a beautiful valley: sustained at a decent VS standard on excellent rock for 120 metres. A gem.
David Rose - AltLd O/S - 06/Sep/07 with Nick Isaac

Still worth its three stars. Really interesting sustained and well positioned climbing
sgl0jd - Jun/07 with Steve Hobbs

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Apr/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/07

timmy-ts - 2007

TH 1st & 3rd
thomasholyoak - AltLd O/S - Aug/06 with DS

Think this was the one we did!
Matt Bill Platypus - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/05 with Cider Nut

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/May/05

Hidden - Oct/03

Nigel Coe - 1997 with Don Sargeant

alan moore - 1995

babymoac - AltLd - 30/Apr/94 with Kathy & Carolyn

andy tetsill - Lead - Aug/91

AndrewP - Lead - 1990

Paul Clarke - 1978

tapley - AltLd - 13/Sep/69 with Dave Hearnshaw

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Mike Nolan, erbridger, sting, gazdw, steve.frankel, Rhys_Alun, Calder, stemill, Skullfire, twright180, groovy_nut

Total votes cast 58
hard HVS0 of 20
HVS0 of 20
easy HVS0 of 20
hard VS4 of 20
VS16 of 20
easy VS0 of 20
hard HS0 of 20
HS0 of 20
easy HS0 of 20
hard 5a0 of 18
5a0 of 18
easy 5a0 of 18
hard 4c8 of 18
4c8 of 18
easy 4c2 of 18
hard 4b0 of 18
4b0 of 18
easy 4b0 of 18
3 Stars12 of 20
2 Stars7 of 20
1 Star1 of 20
0 Stars0 of 20
Bag of .....0 of 20
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S