180m, 6 pitches.
Six Pitch route up the left-side of the Nightcrawler Pillar. The guide has a warning about old bolts but the majority of these have recently been replaced and the route is now very well protected with a small rack. The climbing on pitches 3 and 4 is excellent.
Pitch 1. Climb the face and shallow corner heading towards the left side of the pillar and a two-bolt anchor. Protection is sparse in places but the climbing isn't too difficult. 5.9, 30m.
Pitch 2. Continue up cracks and the corner above. A bolt protected crux leads to a step right to a ledge and a two-bolt anchor. 30m 5.10a.
Pitch 3. Up the obvious corner. This pitch starts as a chimney and gradually narrows. Crack climbing and stemming lead to a ledge on the right and a bolted anchor. Some small gear can be used on this pitch to supplement the bolts. 15m 5.10+/11-.
Pitch 4. Head back into the corner, initially wide enough to chimney. The crack narrows somewhat until it becomes a squeeze chimney. From here, head left through a roof and into a clean corner which is climbed via stemming and face climbing to a crux just before the anchor. This pitch is pretty much fully bolt protected, but some may appreciate a #4 Camalot or similar in the squeeze chimney. 35m, 5.11+.
Pitch 5. The rock at the start of this pitch is poor. Climb the corner by stemming. Then, on better rock up to a roof and move right to easier face climbing. Follow this to the top of the pillar. 40m, 5.10-.
Pitch 6. Climb the last pitch of Nightcrawler. 5.8R.
Pitch 1. Climb the face and shallow corner heading towards the left side of the pillar and a two-bolt anchor. Protection is sparse in places but the climbing isn't too difficult. 5.9, 30m.
Pitch 2. Continue up cracks and the corner above. A bolt protected crux leads to a step right to a ledge and a two-bolt anchor. 30m 5.10a.
Pitch 3. Up the obvious corner. This pitch starts as a chimney and gradually narrows. Crack climbing and stemming lead to a ledge on the right and a bolted anchor. Some small gear can be used on this pitch to supplement the bolts. 15m 5.10+/11-.
Pitch 4. Head back into the corner, initially wide enough to chimney. The crack narrows somewhat until it becomes a squeeze chimney. From here, head left through a roof and into a clean corner which is climbed via stemming and face climbing to a crux just before the anchor. This pitch is pretty much fully bolt protected, but some may appreciate a #4 Camalot or similar in the squeeze chimney. 35m, 5.11+.
Pitch 5. The rock at the start of this pitch is poor. Climb the corner by stemming. Then, on better rock up to a roof and move right to easier face climbing. Follow this to the top of the pillar. 40m, 5.10-.
Pitch 6. Climb the last pitch of Nightcrawler. 5.8R.
Urioste, Ward, Bradley (FA). Harrison, Smith (FFA).
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Route of Interest
Spring Break
Grade: 5.11d ***
(Icebox Canyon)