UKC Logbook - 'There Must Be Something'

Access Banned

The landowners have have recently become aware of climbing at this site (due to publicity on various websites) and have informed the BMC that although this section of the quarry has not been active for many years, this section is still within the boundaries of a working quarry and public access (other than on the public footpaths that cross the site) is not allowed due to liability and health & safety concerns. It's rare that quarry operatives or security will be aware of climbers here but if climbers are seen they will be politely asked to leave.

Contains a number of newly equipped sports routes as well as some historical routes dating back to the 1950s

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Drive up Mount Road to a junction by the top most houses in Llanfairfechan. Follow the higher road from the junction until a footpath on the L leads up to a quarry road and then a waymarked traversing path (Wales Coast Path). Follow the path L along the top of a wall until it starts to descend through a gate. Then follow a path rising gently L ward up the hill to the Top Level. The Pinnacle and an old winding house are prominent on the outer edge of the level (on your L on arrival). The Middle and Bottom Levels are reached by descending an incline from the winding house.

Last update: 13/02/2023

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30m. Start just right of the centre of the bay below a prominent groove with a small tree just above its base. Climb the slab just left of the vegetated lower groove until it is possible to bridge into the groove above the vegetation. Alternatively, if you must, climb the vegetation. Continue up the groove past a short problematic section. At the top of the groove traverse right across a slab to a corner (the continuation of the crux groove on There Isn't Much). Move up to the rib on the right, then surmount the bulge above either by the slabby corner on the right or layaways through the notch to the left. Move left up the slab then trend back right to the lower-off.

FA. Harold Walmsley, Chris Calow 03/Jul/2015.