Mike Adams.
Magstone's Best , Scrittle and CHoss , 2022 Winter Project List
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Droyd | 18 May, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Spine-friendly beta: dropping the heel once you get to the good holds (LH sloper above the crimp, RH lower down on the arete with a nice thumb-catch) allows you to smear RF and get a LF toehook below the big sidepull, match RH to the crimp, and go LH to the sidepull. This felt so much easier than trying to move the heel, probably just because it means that you're less likely to prang yourself. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Spine-friendly beta: dropping the heel once you get to the good holds (LH sloper above the crimp, RH lower down on the arete with a nice thumb-catch) allows you to smear RF and get a LF toehook below the big sidepull, match RH to the crimp, and go LH to the sidepull. This felt so much easier than trying to move the heel, probably just because it means that you're less likely to prang yourself. |
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Grade: f7C ***
(Burbage North)