Rockfax Description
(Nemesis of the Troll Church) A good aid climb up the centre of the big smooth wall in the centre of the cliff. This is one of the hardest aid climbs on Lofoten and is a major undertaking. The required rack includes small-to-mid cams, three knifeblades, five lost arrows, four rurps, a birdbeak, many micro wires, plenty of small wires, plus assorted copperheads. Start under the blank wall split by a single thin vertical crack. The bolts are believed to be in a poor state.
1) A3, 35m. 'The Dream of Two Wings Pitch'. Climb a short crack to a ladder of five bolts then aid a thin vertical crack up the face on rurps and copperheads to a flake. Then up another thin crack to a hanging belay at two bolts.
2) A3, 25m. 'The Golden Parachute Pitch'. Start with a traverse left on copperheads and micro wires, then aid easier cracks to a good belay - half-hanging - at two bolts. Abseil off from here, or continue.....
3) and 4) N6-, 50m. Up cracks for two more pitches to the top. © Rockfax
FA. Odd-Roar Wiik, Niels Poulsen 11.1993. They abseiled off at the top of pitch 2. 15/Nov/1993.
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