UKC

Restricted Access

The north side of the Gorge is predominantly owned by the National Trust and mapped as Open Access land under the CRoW Act which give a right of access for climbers to use these crags all year. The Cheddar Gorge Access Map gives full details of climbing access throughout the Gorge.

The map references the latest guide to the Gorge - 'Cheddar Gorge Climbs' (M. Crocker, 2015), which has details of the popular crags on the north side and definitive details of restored routes on the south side. It is available from The Gorge Outdoors shop in Cheddar village, as well as other climbing and outdoor shops in the area.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Dogs should be kept under control on a lead at any crags on the north side of the Gorge.

The National Trust require any new bolting to be cleared with them first - please contact the BMC Access Team if you are considering any bolting work and so we can help in any approach to the Trust.

Retrobolted in 2009. Climb up to a bulge at 6m. Pull through to jugs and an easier finish. A left-hand version is 7a.

Ticklists

Cheddar Sevens , Mineboyz Mega Projectz - Level: Crystal , Recommended 7's , Brizzle goalz , Sadact’s Cheddar Legacy , 3 Star sport climbs below 7b within a 25 mile radius of Bristol , Bristol area road to 7b , 7As with stars near Bristol , Cheddar 7a+ Challenge , Bristol Sport Pyramid , Cianchi's Hit List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Rockmonkey1977 29 Jan Show βeta
βeta: There’s a loose flake/block quite low down (between bolts 1&2 I think) that is mainly a foot placement (I think). Not sure if it’s chocked in but it did look very wobbly.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There’s a loose flake/block quite low down (between bolts 1&2 I think) that is mainly a foot placement (I think). Not sure if it’s chocked in but it did look very wobbly.
Deema Mozayen 10 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: For the crux, I went from the jug rest into a nearby LH sidepull. This allowed me to reach RH into the big undercut. From here I could walk my feet over to the right (bridged against the polished block) and do a drop knee to reach my left hand over to the decent hold under 4th clip.
Show beta
βeta: For the crux, I went from the jug rest into a nearby LH sidepull. This allowed me to reach RH into the big undercut. From here I could walk my feet over to the right (bridged against the polished block) and do a drop knee to reach my left hand over to the decent hold under 4th clip.
Lisa P 12 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Got the sequence through the roof. Small Plate hold, two undercuts, big crossover left hand. Righthand high crimp/ledge, thumb on. Left hand shit, high feet. Do 3rd clip as low as possible.
Show beta
βeta: Got the sequence through the roof. Small Plate hold, two undercuts, big crossover left hand. Righthand high crimp/ledge, thumb on. Left hand shit, high feet. Do 3rd clip as low as possible.
plant_based_tommo 25 May, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Great route! Well worth doing. Consider using a long quickdraw on 3rd bolt
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route! Well worth doing. Consider using a long quickdraw on 3rd bolt

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 132
Votes cast 127
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
DWS
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Onsighted
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
(Radio Shock ... Link .. On Radio > SOTN )

Grade: 7a+ ***
(Cheddar Gorge South)

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