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It's a Kind of Magic 7b

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[It's a Kind of Magic (7a+), Cheddar, 1 kb]Retrobolted in 2009. Climb up to a bulge at 6m. Pull through to jugs and an easier finish. Easier moves on the left through the crux bulge - Low in the grade.

Ticklists: Cheddar Sevens.

Photo: It's a Kind of Magic (7a+), Cheddar © Kev Little
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 207 logbooks, and on 17 wishlists.

second go, went right first go,, it just pulls you right so enticingly but dont do it !!
hankyc - Lead RP - 12/Sep/14

Luuuuuke - Lead RP - 07/Sep/14 with Jack, Si

Had a play 18 months ago, 1st go. Really good route but no way 7b!!!
peaches69 - Lead - 07/Sep/14 with luke, jack

lx - Lead β - 13/Aug/14 with Dave

Garrouli - Lead rpt - 06/Aug/14 with Simon

LucasHarazin - Lead β - 04/Aug/14

just one more - Lead RP - 04/Aug/14 with lucas

4 years in the making!
Jon_Warner - Lead RP - 29/Jul/14 with Dave Pattinson

Good beta Sadact
derico - Lead β - 29/Jul/14 with Sadact

just one more - Lead dog - 27/Jul/14 with lucas

Awesome, but hard eh
Jon_Warner - Lead dog - 25/Jul/14 with Jenni, Dave Pattinson

Garrouli - Lead rpt - 23/Jul/14 with Matt Williams

2 lobs, got it 3rd go. Finally! Well chuffed with this one
Cheese Monkey - Lead RP - 17/Jul/14 with Eric

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/14

few training laps to help get finger back on track
brices - Lead rpt - 10/Jul/14 with Llinos

2nd go
highrepute - Lead RP - 29/Jun/14

Julie Carroll - Lead RP - 20/Jun/14 with Peter Dickinson

Wendy - Lead rpt - 18/Jun/14 with Tom Ball

Hidden - Lead rpt - 18/Jun/14

Warm up. Really good climbing. Followed the direct line rather than pansying out left...
lukehodson - Lead RP - 15/Jun/14 with Charlotte

Matt Cooke - Lead RP - 31/May/14 with Nick Jones

chakrit - Lead O/S - 11/May/14

Jim Brooke - Lead dnf - 18/Apr/14

brices - Lead rpt - 15/Apr/14 with Jack F

Hidden - Lead RP - 30/Mar/14

Gav A - Lead RP - 29/Mar/14 with Tom Newberry

7a+ at the most. lovely moves
Billg - Lead rpt - 16/Mar/14 with Kev Little

Pleased to have for this on to type after my first go of the day feeling desperate!! Got to lead it now!!
Hannah Brading - TR RP - 08/Mar/14

Warmup for the project
Tomar - Lead rpt - 01/Mar/14 with Charles

Hidden - Lead rpt - 23/Feb/14

Warmup
brices - Lead rpt - 23/Feb/14 with Remus, Llinos

Hidden - Lead rpt - 22/Feb/14

Hidden - Lead dog - 18/Jan/14

oliverpcain - Lead O/S - 2014

Despatched crux quickly enough, then thought I felt fresh enough for the RP, what a waste
jacobjohncharles - Lead dog - 2014

Cailean Harker - 2014

8a
jack1996 - Lead RP - 2014

Wet feet before crux, crucial undercut wet. Had a decent effort though.
Nick Russell - Lead dog - 09/Nov/13

TommityP - Lead rpt - 04/Nov/13

Claudia Harvey - Lead - 29/Oct/13 with Rachel Keys

AJM - Lead rpt - 10/Oct/13 with Tom Stedall

Hidden - Lead RP - 07/Oct/13

2nd RP after working the moves bolt to bolt from a failed onsight attempt. I thought this was quite tough, but not 7b, more hard 7a+.
thedoctorisin - Lead RP - 06/Oct/13 with anthony

quite a thuggy start- at least the way i did it. kept it together till the top somehow.
anthony henry - Lead RP - 06/Oct/13

Llinos C - Oct/13

Second go today, after a half hearted go a few weeks ago.
DorsetGareth - Lead RP - 08/Sep/13 with Andy Wiseman

AJM - Lead rpt - 23/Aug/13 with Paddy Snow, Helen Seaborne

3rd try
jsaric - 18/Aug/13 with Robert Canavan

Ha second go, went wrong way on the onsight but felt easy. 7a+
Ellis Butler-Barker - Lead RP - 11/Aug/13 with Adam

AJM - TR rpt - 02/Aug/13 with Garry Whitehead

Garrouli - Lead rpt - 02/Aug/13 with AJM

Fluffed it by going too low at the bulge on the onsight. Tommy (12) flashed on TR.
shark - Lead RP - 23/Jul/13 with Sonia + family

mountain_jay - Lead RP - 19/Jul/13 with Pippa Froggatt

Quite hard and very good if you go direct through the overhang.
Dan Savory - Lead RP - Jul/13 with Jason Parker

Hidden - Lead β - Jul/13

miles off the onsight, worked the moves on TR then got it first redpoint attempt. Brilliant route - loved it
hms - Lead RP - 21/Jun/13 with AJM

_m.cox_ - Lead rpt - 14/Jun/13 with no_need_for_lube_yan, Prajak

tommytuffa - Lead rpt - 11/Jun/13 with Libby, ollie b

Hidden - Lead RP - 02/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead RP - 02/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead dog - 29/May/13

Tomar - Lead rpt - 29/May/13 with Ross Davidson

tom106 - Lead O/S - 27/May/13 with tom

its a nice route with great moves through the buldge. so good! dave got it first then me then dale.
henry peter jenkins - Lead RP - 27/May/13 with dale clover, david proctor

Totally overgraded. Done many 6b/c that have felt harder than this. Great route, and certainly easier with the beta.
dprctr - Lead β - 27/May/13 with Dale Colver, Henry Jenkins

AJM - Lead rpt - 23/May/13 with Mike Goldthorp

yan hawkins - Lead RP - 22/May/13

Gets 7b on ukc I'll take that
paultaylor - Lead RP - 22/Apr/13 with Grant

Hidden - Lead - 22/Apr/13

Hidden - Lead dog - 20/Apr/13

Cheese Monkey - TR dog - 01/Apr/13 with Eric

tobydunford - Lead β - 17/Feb/13 with Kirsty Kerr

Stung by nettles at end of day
Cheese Monkey - TR dog - 16/Feb/13 with Eric

Ist try. Excellent route. 7a+ max.
ericinbristol - Lead RP - 13/Feb/13 with Ross A

only dry bit of rock today
Jon Didymus - Lead dog - 26/Jan/13 with Nick

Danny_boulders - Lead RP - 2013 with Paul Norris, Robin O'Leary

Hidden - Lead RP - 14/Oct/12

Billg - Lead RP - 14/Oct/12 with Nik Goile

Oddjob - Lead RP - 07/Oct/12 with Rachel

Hidden - Lead dog - 06/Oct/12

Dan_Carroll - Lead dog - 06/Oct/12 with Eric Herring

Terrible conditions, great climbing.
drewish - Lead RP - 06/Oct/12

Project
Luxulyan - TR - Oct/12 with Ed Southwood

2nd Go. 7a+
Peter Dickinson - Lead RP - 27/Sep/12

Garrouli - Lead rpt - 19/Sep/12 with adinda

1st RP. I think soft 7a+
BeccaSnowden - Lead RP - 28/Aug/12 with Tom

Should have got it first go really, tried a silly move on the crux when I should have just reached for a good hold. Good climb.
thomasadixon - Lead RP - 28/Aug/12 with Becca

Did the crux 1st rp but fumbled the top and had to have another go
jiggerypokery - Lead RP - 21/Aug/12 with Rosea Day

Rosea Day - TR rpt - 20/Aug/12 with Jerome Gill

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/12

dannyboy83 - Lead RP - 28/Jul/12 with tom maidwell

Hidden - Lead RP - 21/Jul/12

JeromeT - Lead β - 05/Jul/12 with Cherry B, Toby D

Hidden - Lead RP - 05/Jul/12

Toby Dunn - Lead - 05/Jul/12 with Jerome, Cherry Bedford

Jordan - Lead O/S - 31/May/12

quiffhanger - Lead rpt - 19/May/12

valecoastclimber - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/12

Garrouli - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/12 with Jak

Hidden - Lead RP - Apr/12

1st RP
Adam Booth - Lead RP - 31/Mar/12 with Martin Cleaver, Al Smith, David Liu

1st RP, prob worth 7b just about.
Martin Cleaver - Lead RP - 31/Mar/12 with david

davidliu - Lead RP - 31/Mar/12 with Adam Booth, Alex Smith, Martin Cleaver

3rd RP
ian d f - Lead RP - 27/Mar/12 with Michael P

pearson9596 - Lead RP - 27/Mar/12 with Ian Faulkner

Tired, warm down
Stone Muppet - TR dog - 05/Mar/12 with am

Hidden - Lead β - 03/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead rpt - Feb/12

Hidden - Lead dog - 21/Jan/12

3 Names - Lead dog - 30/Nov/11 with Nick

7a for me
Phil Belcher - Lead RP - 27/Nov/11 with Rich

felt solid 7b to me. had a bita beta shouted out to me at crux.
grey wolf - Lead β - 13/Nov/11

2nd go. Disappointed not to get the on-sight but crux sequence wasn't obvious to me. Top section is really nice: sustained ~6c+.
quiffhanger - Lead RP - 06/Nov/11

Ace route, 2nd rp. Tough 7a+.
catt - Lead RP - 23/Oct/11 with Hazel, Nick Sexton

What a difference a day makes - total fight on saturday, lots of goes, no banana. 2nd go on sunday, felt fairly straightforward. Three stars. Lower end 7a+.
Quiddity - Lead RP - 23/Oct/11 with catt

jason82 - 09/Oct/11

Hidden - 2nd RP - 02/Oct/11

just one more - 2nd dog - 23/Sep/11 with danny, steve f

Hidden - Lead RP - 09/Sep/11

bigie bob - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/11

keefe - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/11 with Tansy

sam.sam.sam.ferguson - Lead β - 31/Aug/11 with Marti Hallett

Marti999 - Lead RP - 31/Aug/11 with Sam Ferguson

Hidden - Lead RP - 21/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead rpt - 14/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead rpt - 13/Jul/11

PeterDawson - Lead RP - 02/Jul/11

Luke Dawson - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/11

Wendy - Lead rpt - 16/Jun/11 with Mike Coles

1st RP try. Really cool route.
Tomar - Lead RP - 03/Jun/11 with James Barrow

weakaaron - Lead RP - 01/Jun/11 with max b

Butch little number
Stefan Kruger - Lead RP - 08/May/11 with Sarah Kruger

First go today.
TommityP - Lead RP - 12/Apr/11

willbatho - Lead β - 12/Apr/11

mikeshewring - Lead β - 02/Apr/11

TommityP - Lead dog - 02/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead RP - Apr/11

Rick hard Rock - Lead rpt - 26/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead RP - 07/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead rpt - 05/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead rpt - 19/Feb/11

finding the right beta really helped. 5th go I believe. Fantastic route, Personally I think this is at least a 2 star climb
adlamixion - Lead RP - 12/Feb/11 with felix and ross

tskelhon - Lead RP - 11/Feb/11 with John_Warner

Steve Winslow - Jan/11

oggles - 2011

Rosea Day - 2011

richiebongo - Lead RP - 16/Nov/10 with Nick Smith

First try after bungling the redpoint 18months ago.
John Southworth - Lead RP - 30/Oct/10 with Mike Rudden, Kenton Cool, Alex Jakubowski

Hidden - Lead - 24/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead rpt - 07/Sep/10

Hidden - Lead RP - 04/Sep/10

1st RP
Bristoldave - Lead RP - 04/Sep/10 with douglas

Hidden - Lead rpt - 21/Aug/10

Didn't expect it to go today, felt very unfit putting the clips in. Excellent fun, powerful moves on the bulge then a steep headwall
AJM - Lead RP - 12/Aug/10 with Charles Hubbard

Dan Jenkin - Lead rpt - 12/Aug/10 with James Marshall

good route, distinct, hard crux that may have an alternate sequence, reasonably sustained to the top
Dandan82 - Lead RP - 31/Jul/10 with jason darke

Chubbard - Lead rpt - 23/Jul/10 with Mark C

Cool ass route! powerful through the bulge to fat jugs, thankfully, cos i forgot my quickdraws (first 2 were in from alex tryin it) so spent a while gettin some chucked up to me, which i think took its tole near the end - got pumped!
Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/10 with Zoe, Alex, Ben

TommityP - Lead dog - 10/Jul/10

3rd go
Wendy - Lead RP - 08/Jul/10 with Tom Ball

James Marshall - Lead rpt - Jul/10

Hidden - Lead dog - Jul/10

Hidden - Lead RP - 17/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead RP - 17/Jun/10

Leeds - Lead RP - 16/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead RP - 05/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead dog - 05/Jun/10

billb - Lead - Jun/10 with Lee

Hidden - Lead dnf - 21/May/10

moves fine now. Need way more power-endurance, not gonna happen any time soon
Dr Caterpillar - Lead dog - 21/May/10 with Harry

using the undercling a la Andy's sequence. v good.
Chubbard - TR dog - 17/May/10 with AJM

Chubbard - Lead RP - 10/May/10 with Tom Stedall, AJM

all the moves are wired now. found new sequence on the first bulge
Dr Caterpillar - Lead dog - 03/May/10 with Alan Sage

Hidden - Lead RP - 02/May/10

2nd go
tommytuffa - Lead RP - 22/Apr/10 with Aaron, tomar

Jake Shaw - TR β - 18/Apr/10 with Iain

Hidden - Lead RP - Apr/10

Hidden - Lead RP - 27/Mar/10

gejones - Lead RP - 21/Mar/10 with DafSWMC

2 gos. Got to last bolt cleanly 1st go. Worse 2nd go.
Chubbard - Lead dog - 21/Mar/10 with Derek

Led with Wendy and a dodgey knee
colesy - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/10

Wendy - TR dog - 14/Mar/10 with Mike Coles

nice climbing
Tris.w - Lead RP - 13/Mar/10 with Simon brice

Jon Didymus - TR dog - 04/Mar/10 with Rich

brices - Lead RP - 07/Feb/10

Ace moves
Chubbard - Lead dnf - 09/Jan/10 with J Robinson

tom harrison - 2010

Hidden - Lead RP - 25/Oct/09

Second go today. Have tried before. Good route. Hard 7a+
Richard Hall - Lead RP - 11/Oct/09 with James Barrow

Hidden - Lead β - 19/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead RP - Sep/09

James Marshall - Lead RP - Jun/09

cool route, will come back
Dr Caterpillar - Lead dog - 22/May/09 with Hazel

westyb3 - Lead O/S - May/09 with Matt Cox

Cowflinger - Lead RP - 14/Apr/09 with Pete Lewis

Hidden - Lead RP - 05/Apr/09

Billg - Lead RP - 05/Apr/09 with James Kauntze

marric - Lead O/S - Apr/09 with Andy Sharp

steve_yo - Lead β - Apr/09

Paul Robertson - Lead rpt - 13/Mar/09 with Bristol Dave

Paul Robertson - Lead dog - 10/Mar/09 with Guy Percival

guy xavier percival - Lead RP - 10/Mar/09

_m.cox_ - Lead O/S - Feb/09 with Robyn Nelson

Hidden - Lead RP - 2009

Dan Jenkin - Lead RP - 2009 with James Marshall, Tom Heslam

Soft 7a.
Spacetourist - Lead O/S - 2009 with Dan Jenkin, james Marshall

Repeated with Beccy
eddieclimb - Lead RP - 2009 with Rebecca Edwards, Tom Harrison

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, J1_TOV, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, yan hawkins, Hidden, JackMac, Alex Norman, Jim Brooke, jameswhitty, Hidden, Hidden, gnarlyboi, Dr Caterpillar, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 154
hard 7b+0 of 79
7b+0 of 79
easy 7b+0 of 79
hard 7b0 of 79
7b8 of 79
easy 7b22 of 79
hard 7a+41 of 79
7a+6 of 79
easy 7a+2 of 79
3 Stars12 of 75
2 Stars56 of 75
1 Star6 of 75
0 Stars1 of 75
Bag of .....0 of 75
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Style of ascent

Lead186 of 207 (89.9%)
Followed2 of 207 (1.0%)
Toproped11 of 207 (5.3%)
Unknown8 of 207 (3.9%)

'Climbed'15 of 207 (7.2%)
clean O/S17 of 207 (8.2%)
clean β15 of 207 (7.2%)
clean rpt36 of 207 (17.4%)
clean RP93 of 207 (44.9%)
dogged28 of 207 (13.5%)
dnf3 of 207 (1.4%)