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It's a Kind of Magic 7b

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[It's a Kind of Magic (7a+), Cheddar, 1 kb]Retrobolted in 2009. Climb up to a bulge at 6m. Pull through to jugs and an easier finish. Easier moves on the left through the crux bulge - Low in the grade.

Ticklists: Cheddar Sevens.

Photo: It's a Kind of Magic (7a+), Cheddar © Kev Little
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This climb is in 207 logbooks, and on 17 wishlists.

second go, went right first go,, it just pulls you right so enticingly but dont do it !!
hankyc - Lead RP - 12/Sep/14

Luuuuuke - Lead RP - 07/Sep/14 with Jack, Si

Had a play 18 months ago, 1st go. Really good route but no way 7b!!!
peaches69 - Lead - 07/Sep/14 with luke, jack

lx - Lead β - 13/Aug/14 with Dave

Garrouli - Lead rpt - 06/Aug/14 with Simon

LucasHarazin - Lead β - 04/Aug/14

just one more - Lead RP - 04/Aug/14 with lucas

4 years in the making!
Jon_Warner - Lead RP - 29/Jul/14 with Dave Pattinson

Good beta Sadact
derico - Lead β - 29/Jul/14 with Sadact

just one more - Lead dog - 27/Jul/14 with lucas

Awesome, but hard eh
Jon_Warner - Lead dog - 25/Jul/14 with Jenni, Dave Pattinson

Garrouli - Lead rpt - 23/Jul/14 with Matt Williams

2 lobs, got it 3rd go. Finally! Well chuffed with this one
Cheese Monkey - Lead RP - 17/Jul/14 with Eric

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/14

few training laps to help get finger back on track
brices - Lead rpt - 10/Jul/14 with Llinos

2nd go
highrepute - Lead RP - 29/Jun/14

Julie Carroll - Lead RP - 20/Jun/14 with Peter Dickinson

Wendy - Lead rpt - 18/Jun/14 with Tom Ball

Hidden - Lead rpt - 18/Jun/14

Warm up. Really good climbing. Followed the direct line rather than pansying out left...
lukehodson - Lead RP - 15/Jun/14 with Charlotte

Matt Cooke - Lead RP - 31/May/14 with Nick Jones

chakrit - Lead O/S - 11/May/14

Jim Brooke - Lead dnf - 18/Apr/14

brices - Lead rpt - 15/Apr/14 with Jack F

Hidden - Lead RP - 30/Mar/14

Gav A - Lead RP - 29/Mar/14 with Tom Newberry

7a+ at the most. lovely moves
Billg - Lead rpt - 16/Mar/14 with Kev Little

Pleased to have for this on to type after my first go of the day feeling desperate!! Got to lead it now!!
Hannah Brading - TR RP - 08/Mar/14

Warmup for the project
Tomar - Lead rpt - 01/Mar/14 with Charles

Hidden - Lead rpt - 23/Feb/14

brices - Lead rpt - 23/Feb/14 with Remus, Llinos

Hidden - Lead rpt - 22/Feb/14

Hidden - Lead dog - 18/Jan/14

oliverpcain - Lead O/S - 2014

Despatched crux quickly enough, then thought I felt fresh enough for the RP, what a waste
jacobjohncharles - Lead dog - 2014

Cailean Harker - 2014

jack1996 - Lead RP - 2014

Wet feet before crux, crucial undercut wet. Had a decent effort though.
Nick Russell - Lead dog - 09/Nov/13

TommityP - Lead rpt - 04/Nov/13

Claudia Harvey - Lead - 29/Oct/13 with Rachel Keys

AJM - Lead rpt - 10/Oct/13 with Tom Stedall

Hidden - Lead RP - 07/Oct/13

2nd RP after working the moves bolt to bolt from a failed onsight attempt. I thought this was quite tough, but not 7b, more hard 7a+.
thedoctorisin - Lead RP - 06/Oct/13 with anthony

quite a thuggy start- at least the way i did it. kept it together till the top somehow.
anthony henry - Lead RP - 06/Oct/13

Llinos C - Oct/13

Second go today, after a half hearted go a few weeks ago.
DorsetGareth - Lead RP - 08/Sep/13 with Andy Wiseman

AJM - Lead rpt - 23/Aug/13 with Paddy Snow, Helen Seaborne

3rd try
jsaric - 18/Aug/13 with Robert Canavan

Ha second go, went wrong way on the onsight but felt easy. 7a+
Ellis Butler-Barker - Lead RP - 11/Aug/13 with Adam

AJM - TR rpt - 02/Aug/13 with Garry Whitehead

Garrouli - Lead rpt - 02/Aug/13 with AJM

Fluffed it by going too low at the bulge on the onsight. Tommy (12) flashed on TR.
shark - Lead RP - 23/Jul/13 with Sonia + family

mountain_jay - Lead RP - 19/Jul/13 with Pippa Froggatt

Quite hard and very good if you go direct through the overhang.
Dan Savory - Lead RP - Jul/13 with Jason Parker

Hidden - Lead β - Jul/13

miles off the onsight, worked the moves on TR then got it first redpoint attempt. Brilliant route - loved it
hms - Lead RP - 21/Jun/13 with AJM

_m.cox_ - Lead rpt - 14/Jun/13 with no_need_for_lube_yan, Prajak

tommytuffa - Lead rpt - 11/Jun/13 with Libby, ollie b

Hidden - Lead RP - 02/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead RP - 02/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead dog - 29/May/13

Tomar - Lead rpt - 29/May/13 with Ross Davidson

tom106 - Lead O/S - 27/May/13 with tom

its a nice route with great moves through the buldge. so good! dave got it first then me then dale.
henry peter jenkins - Lead RP - 27/May/13 with dale clover, david proctor

Totally overgraded. Done many 6b/c that have felt harder than this. Great route, and certainly easier with the beta.
dprctr - Lead β - 27/May/13 with Dale Colver, Henry Jenkins

AJM - Lead rpt - 23/May/13 with Mike Goldthorp

yan hawkins - Lead RP - 22/May/13

Gets 7b on ukc I'll take that
paultaylor - Lead RP - 22/Apr/13 with Grant

Hidden - Lead - 22/Apr/13

Hidden - Lead dog - 20/Apr/13

Cheese Monkey - TR dog - 01/Apr/13 with Eric

tobydunford - Lead β - 17/Feb/13 with Kirsty Kerr

Stung by nettles at end of day
Cheese Monkey - TR dog - 16/Feb/13 with Eric

Ist try. Excellent route. 7a+ max.
ericinbristol - Lead RP - 13/Feb/13 with Ross A

only dry bit of rock today
Jon Didymus - Lead dog - 26/Jan/13 with Nick

Danny_boulders - Lead RP - 2013 with Paul Norris, Robin O'Leary

Hidden - Lead RP - 14/Oct/12

Billg - Lead RP - 14/Oct/12 with Nik Goile

Oddjob - Lead RP - 07/Oct/12 with Rachel

Hidden - Lead dog - 06/Oct/12

Dan_Carroll - Lead dog - 06/Oct/12 with Eric Herring

Terrible conditions, great climbing.
drewish - Lead RP - 06/Oct/12

Luxulyan - TR - Oct/12 with Ed Southwood

2nd Go. 7a+
Peter Dickinson - Lead RP - 27/Sep/12

Garrouli - Lead rpt - 19/Sep/12 with adinda

1st RP. I think soft 7a+
BeccaSnowden - Lead RP - 28/Aug/12 with Tom

Should have got it first go really, tried a silly move on the crux when I should have just reached for a good hold. Good climb.
thomasadixon - Lead RP - 28/Aug/12 with Becca

Did the crux 1st rp but fumbled the top and had to have another go
jiggerypokery - Lead RP - 21/Aug/12 with Rosea Day

Rosea Day - TR rpt - 20/Aug/12 with Jerome Gill

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/12

dannyboy83 - Lead RP - 28/Jul/12 with tom maidwell

Hidden - Lead RP - 21/Jul/12

JeromeT - Lead β - 05/Jul/12 with Cherry B, Toby D

Hidden - Lead RP - 05/Jul/12

Toby Dunn - Lead - 05/Jul/12 with Jerome, Cherry Bedford

Jordan - Lead O/S - 31/May/12

quiffhanger - Lead rpt - 19/May/12

valecoastclimber - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/12

Garrouli - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/12 with Jak

Hidden - Lead RP - Apr/12

1st RP
Adam Booth - Lead RP - 31/Mar/12 with Martin Cleaver, Al Smith, David Liu

1st RP, prob worth 7b just about.
Martin Cleaver - Lead RP - 31/Mar/12 with david

davidliu - Lead RP - 31/Mar/12 with Adam Booth, Alex Smith, Martin Cleaver

3rd RP
ian d f - Lead RP - 27/Mar/12 with Michael P

pearson9596 - Lead RP - 27/Mar/12 with Ian Faulkner

Tired, warm down
Stone Muppet - TR dog - 05/Mar/12 with am

Hidden - Lead β - 03/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead rpt - Feb/12

Hidden - Lead dog - 21/Jan/12

3 Names - Lead dog - 30/Nov/11 with Nick

7a for me
Phil Belcher - Lead RP - 27/Nov/11 with Rich

felt solid 7b to me. had a bita beta shouted out to me at crux.
grey wolf - Lead β - 13/Nov/11

2nd go. Disappointed not to get the on-sight but crux sequence wasn't obvious to me. Top section is really nice: sustained ~6c+.
quiffhanger - Lead RP - 06/Nov/11

Ace route, 2nd rp. Tough 7a+.
catt - Lead RP - 23/Oct/11 with Hazel, Nick Sexton

What a difference a day makes - total fight on saturday, lots of goes, no banana. 2nd go on sunday, felt fairly straightforward. Three stars. Lower end 7a+.
Quiddity - Lead RP - 23/Oct/11 with catt

jason82 - 09/Oct/11

Hidden - 2nd RP - 02/Oct/11

just one more - 2nd dog - 23/Sep/11 with danny, steve f

Hidden - Lead RP - 09/Sep/11

bigie bob - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/11

keefe - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/11 with Tansy

sam.sam.sam.ferguson - Lead β - 31/Aug/11 with Marti Hallett

Marti999 - Lead RP - 31/Aug/11 with Sam Ferguson

Hidden - Lead RP - 21/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead rpt - 14/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead rpt - 13/Jul/11

PeterDawson - Lead RP - 02/Jul/11

Luke Dawson - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/11

Wendy - Lead rpt - 16/Jun/11 with Mike Coles

1st RP try. Really cool route.
Tomar - Lead RP - 03/Jun/11 with James Barrow

weakaaron - Lead RP - 01/Jun/11 with max b

Butch little number
Stefan Kruger - Lead RP - 08/May/11 with Sarah Kruger

First go today.
TommityP - Lead RP - 12/Apr/11

willbatho - Lead β - 12/Apr/11

mikeshewring - Lead β - 02/Apr/11

TommityP - Lead dog - 02/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead RP - Apr/11

Rick hard Rock - Lead rpt - 26/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead RP - 07/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead rpt - 05/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead rpt - 19/Feb/11

finding the right beta really helped. 5th go I believe. Fantastic route, Personally I think this is at least a 2 star climb
adlamixion - Lead RP - 12/Feb/11 with felix and ross

tskelhon - Lead RP - 11/Feb/11 with John_Warner

Steve Winslow - Jan/11

oggles - 2011

Rosea Day - 2011

richiebongo - Lead RP - 16/Nov/10 with Nick Smith

First try after bungling the redpoint 18months ago.
John Southworth - Lead RP - 30/Oct/10 with Mike Rudden, Kenton Cool, Alex Jakubowski

Hidden - Lead - 24/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead rpt - 07/Sep/10

Hidden - Lead RP - 04/Sep/10

1st RP
Bristoldave - Lead RP - 04/Sep/10 with douglas

Hidden - Lead rpt - 21/Aug/10

Didn't expect it to go today, felt very unfit putting the clips in. Excellent fun, powerful moves on the bulge then a steep headwall
AJM - Lead RP - 12/Aug/10 with Charles Hubbard

Dan Jenkin - Lead rpt - 12/Aug/10 with James Marshall

good route, distinct, hard crux that may have an alternate sequence, reasonably sustained to the top
Dandan82 - Lead RP - 31/Jul/10 with jason darke

Chubbard - Lead rpt - 23/Jul/10 with Mark C

Cool ass route! powerful through the bulge to fat jugs, thankfully, cos i forgot my quickdraws (first 2 were in from alex tryin it) so spent a while gettin some chucked up to me, which i think took its tole near the end - got pumped!
Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/10 with Zoe, Alex, Ben

TommityP - Lead dog - 10/Jul/10

3rd go
Wendy - Lead RP - 08/Jul/10 with Tom Ball

James Marshall - Lead rpt - Jul/10

Hidden - Lead dog - Jul/10

Hidden - Lead RP - 17/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead RP - 17/Jun/10

Leeds - Lead RP - 16/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead RP - 05/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead dog - 05/Jun/10

billb - Lead - Jun/10 with Lee

Hidden - Lead dnf - 21/May/10

moves fine now. Need way more power-endurance, not gonna happen any time soon
Dr Caterpillar - Lead dog - 21/May/10 with Harry

using the undercling a la Andy's sequence. v good.
Chubbard - TR dog - 17/May/10 with AJM

Chubbard - Lead RP - 10/May/10 with Tom Stedall, AJM

all the moves are wired now. found new sequence on the first bulge
Dr Caterpillar - Lead dog - 03/May/10 with Alan Sage

Hidden - Lead RP - 02/May/10

2nd go
tommytuffa - Lead RP - 22/Apr/10 with Aaron, tomar

Jake Shaw - TR β - 18/Apr/10 with Iain

Hidden - Lead RP - Apr/10

Hidden - Lead RP - 27/Mar/10

gejones - Lead RP - 21/Mar/10 with DafSWMC

2 gos. Got to last bolt cleanly 1st go. Worse 2nd go.
Chubbard - Lead dog - 21/Mar/10 with Derek

Led with Wendy and a dodgey knee
colesy - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/10

Wendy - TR dog - 14/Mar/10 with Mike Coles

nice climbing
Tris.w - Lead RP - 13/Mar/10 with Simon brice

Jon Didymus - TR dog - 04/Mar/10 with Rich

brices - Lead RP - 07/Feb/10

Ace moves
Chubbard - Lead dnf - 09/Jan/10 with J Robinson

tom harrison - 2010

Hidden - Lead RP - 25/Oct/09

Second go today. Have tried before. Good route. Hard 7a+
Richard Hall - Lead RP - 11/Oct/09 with James Barrow

Hidden - Lead β - 19/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead RP - Sep/09

James Marshall - Lead RP - Jun/09

cool route, will come back
Dr Caterpillar - Lead dog - 22/May/09 with Hazel

westyb3 - Lead O/S - May/09 with Matt Cox

Cowflinger - Lead RP - 14/Apr/09 with Pete Lewis

Hidden - Lead RP - 05/Apr/09

Billg - Lead RP - 05/Apr/09 with James Kauntze

marric - Lead O/S - Apr/09 with Andy Sharp

steve_yo - Lead β - Apr/09

Paul Robertson - Lead rpt - 13/Mar/09 with Bristol Dave

Paul Robertson - Lead dog - 10/Mar/09 with Guy Percival

guy xavier percival - Lead RP - 10/Mar/09

_m.cox_ - Lead O/S - Feb/09 with Robyn Nelson

Hidden - Lead RP - 2009

Dan Jenkin - Lead RP - 2009 with James Marshall, Tom Heslam

Soft 7a.
Spacetourist - Lead O/S - 2009 with Dan Jenkin, james Marshall

Repeated with Beccy
eddieclimb - Lead RP - 2009 with Rebecca Edwards, Tom Harrison

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, J1_TOV, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, yan hawkins, Hidden, JackMac, Alex Norman, Jim Brooke, jameswhitty, Hidden, Hidden, gnarlyboi, Dr Caterpillar, Hidden

Total votes cast 154
hard 7b+0 of 79
7b+0 of 79
easy 7b+0 of 79
hard 7b0 of 79
7b8 of 79
easy 7b22 of 79
hard 7a+41 of 79
7a+6 of 79
easy 7a+2 of 79
3 Stars12 of 75
2 Stars56 of 75
1 Star6 of 75
0 Stars1 of 75
Bag of .....0 of 75
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Style of ascent

Lead186 of 207 (89.9%)
Followed2 of 207 (1.0%)
Toproped11 of 207 (5.3%)
Unknown8 of 207 (3.9%)

'Climbed'15 of 207 (7.2%)
clean O/S17 of 207 (8.2%)
clean β15 of 207 (7.2%)
clean rpt36 of 207 (17.4%)
clean RP93 of 207 (44.9%)
dogged28 of 207 (13.5%)
dnf3 of 207 (1.4%)