|30m, 2 pitches. This climb takes a higher and more direct line than Blitzkrieg, using some dubious old gas pipes for protection! Start at a crack line directly below the right hand side of the cave. Climb the crack into the cave at 13m. Belay. From the cave, climb a line slanting left using a undercut crack (small friends) to a resting place; continue directly over a square-cut overhang [A1 - peg for aid ] to escape up a broken groove to a loose top out.
An attempt to avoid pulling on the rusty pegs..... climb a crack through the Square cut overhang right of the aid pegs, reaching another undercut crack, use this to gain the top of the aid section. Felt E2, but I grabbed on to the final peg while clipping it....giving maybe (E2 5b A0) - Ian Jackson, July 2008. |