Rockfax Description
A very worthwhile top-pitch up the huge right-leaning corner. High in the grade. Start as for Gates of Eden.
Start at the arete right of the layback crack.
1) 4a, 21m. Climb Gates of Eden until it is possible to work rightwards to a stance at the base of the corner.
2) 5a, 25m. Climb the long, wide corner-crack with the crux near the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: The Daddyhole Project, West Country Climbs.

Euge401 29/May Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Mar Lead O/S
David Staples 24/Mar AltLd dog
chrisdevon 04/Sep/15 2nd O/S
with Jonathan Preston
LauraTejada ?/Aug/15 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/15 AltLd
Hidden 13/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
timreynolds 03/Sep/14 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jun/14 Lead
Hidden 31/May/14 AltLd
alice fuller 17/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Phil79 15/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Delectable 2nd pitch, sustained at the top.

with Steve H
Hidden 30/Nov/13 Lead O/S
owb106 14/Sep/13 -
with Tom Bushell, Caroline Hammond
steveprice.exmouth 05/Sep/13 AltLd

led P2

with Jeremy Windsor
tombushell ?/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Caroline Hammond, Oli Brend
Hidden 28/Jul/13 Lead
Grabtheslab 22/Jul/13 Lead O/S

did both pitches well protected on the final slab

leo-z-g 21/Jun/13 -

One of the best VS's I've ever climbed. Really nice, hard, well protected moves. Better than Gates of Eden in my opinion

mollymcleod 21/Jun/13 2nd O/S


with Leo Grabowski
Felix Ottey 15/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Great route top pitch felt harder than gates of Eden, more sustained perhaps? To the two guys on the route after me today did you find my number 1 dragon cam? If so can you email me at thanks in advance!! ;-)

Merlin 15/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Lead P1 with a seagull attacking me throughout! The crux on P2 felt hard.

with Dave Tait
BelayBunney 01/Jun/13 Lead dog

Layback on last pitch is tricky and quite sustained. Had to sit in 3/4 up after faffing around for too long and getting tired . Nice climb though - will do it clean next time!!

Hidden 21/May/13 AltLd
Hidden 21/May/13 AltLd
Cheese Monkey 06/Jan/13 Lead rpt

Still good! Better technique this time. Lead p2 after partner fell from crux!

with Iain
Grabtheslab ??/2013 -
Cheese Monkey 05/Dec/12 Lead O/S

Well good corner climbing, a strong line. Quite why I didnt use the crack for my feet I dont know, made life hard for myself. Be very careful around the right hand end of the small Right traverse on p1, stood on a large block which very nearly came off.

with Ian M
Ian Miller 05/Dec/12 2nd
Bry 16/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
Mike_Hayes 13/Oct/12 Lead
Motown 13/Oct/12 AltLd
with Luke
Mr Tickle 13/Oct/12 AltLd O/S

Led P2, nice climb but a little bit wet on the top section and then started to rain on the top section which made it a little bit more interesting.

with Will
Thunderthighsontheloose 13/Oct/12 2nd

Didn't quite follow the correct line - headed off to the right instead, which probably made it more E1 5b

waydan 10/Aug/12 2nd

Top pitch has some lovely climbing.

timreynolds 08/Aug/12 AltLd
with Stuart
steveprice.exmouth 08/Aug/12 AltLd rpt

Led p2.Lovely

with Pete Callaghan
Hidden 28/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
tobydunford 04/Jun/12 2nd O/S
with Harry Martin
Doug miller 13/May/12 AltLd O/S

Second pitch is Hard

Chris.Irwin 13/May/12 2nd dog

Bit of trouble on the second pitch, before realising a lay back was possible

with Ed Morris
Ed morris 13/May/12 Lead O/S
with chris
SteveoS 13/May/12 AltLd O/S

Did first pitch, Doug did second. Hard second pitch.

with Doug Miller
rustaldo 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S

lead in one long pitch, first half is utter garbage. very chossy, lots of loose rock and very dusty and green. upper half though is tough for VS on a nicely cut corner. 1 star for 1 section of good climbing and good rock. felt harder than gates of eden.

Hidden 31/Mar/12 2nd
mark schramm 12/Feb/12 Lead rpt
with Sarah W
Sarah Welsh 12/Feb/12 2nd O/S
Ed Babs 21/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
with Marti
Marti999 21/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
Dave 88 06/Dec/11 AltLd O/S

Lead second pitch. Did I ever pick a winner! Fantastic bridging up a solid corner. Plenty of gear if you want it (cams). Don't layback it unless you have forearms like popeye! Finished in the dark (shock!), and had to ab for a cam that I placed badly. NOTE: 1st belay pegs are infact one mullered rusty peg. Plenty of placements to use instead though.

minexplorer 06/Dec/11 AltLd

both pitches great. led the 1st dave led the top.fairly strong moves at top but there are holds on both the slab an the left wall.belay pegs long rusted away belay 10ft higher

with dave88
Matt Smith 13/Nov/11 AltLd O/S

P1, second pitch is amazing.

gidmord 13/Nov/11 2nd O/S
with Matt Smith, John Tanner
Hidden 23/Oct/11 2nd
Hidden 27/Sep/11 Lead
JackHatton 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with richy mardell
Motown 22/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Richy
Homes 06/Aug/11 Lead
with Jonny C
jcook1980 06/Aug/11 AltLd
mark schramm 05/Aug/11 AltLd
with tom mason
DCIGadget 03/Aug/11 2nd O/S

Mark led 1st pitch, tim 2nd. very much enjoyed though finding our way out at the top was a bit difficult

mark schramm 03/Aug/11 AltLd
timreynolds 03/Aug/11 AltLd
thomb 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S

very hard in the grade, particularly scary with a skeletal rack!

with Tom Syrett
Hidden 06/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
jameshiggins 23/May/11 Lead
with Neil Adams
jonnie3430 23/May/11 Lead O/S
with Carol
Ceridwen 22/May/11 2nd

Done carrying my rack and rucksack to avoid scrambling!

Sophie Nunn 22/May/11 AltLd O/S
TiffTiff 22/May/11 AltLd O/S

led p2

with Ceri, Sophie
Chris Ebbutt 03/May/11 AltLd
with Dave R.
Okecroak 03/May/11 AltLd
rob1 22/Apr/11 AltLd
Hidden 22/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
francois 17/Apr/11 Lead rpt

Much easier in the dry! Nice route.

with Tammy
little_tammy 17/Apr/11 2nd O/S
JulesClimbs 14/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with Paul
Hidden 12/Apr/11 2nd
kyebrooks 03/Apr/11 Lead β
brynmays 03/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

lead the 2nd pitch, the crux was quite fun as there wasnt to many placements.

Hidden 02/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
NathanC 1994 02/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Awsome Climb, Some Really Tough Moves But Defintely Worth Doing It :D

kyebrooks 02/Apr/11 Lead O/S
crimpy69 ?/Apr/11 AltLd

found crux tricky, plenty of cam protection had no cams...bit scarry!

Davebryant ?/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with Bryn Mays, Tom Brown
mark schramm 28/Oct/10 AltLd

Lead top pitch - lovely.

with steve P
Steve Woollard 02/Oct/10 Lead

I also think it's better than Gates of Eden

Haytor_Haggis 02/Oct/10 2nd
misterb 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S

better than gates of eden

with wain
justin burgoyne 16/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
saz_b 08/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch, dugs took second. v loose blocks at top of first pitch. Nice second pitch, enjoyed the bridging!

with harry b, Dugald
francois 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Second pitch only as we abbed off into the stance.

with Chawn
Hidden 01/Aug/10 2nd rpt
nickdonohue ??/2010 Lead
with Steve ?
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
Hidden 30/Oct/09 Lead O/S
twright180 11/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/09 AltLd
RobSteere 14/Mar/09 2nd O/S
with John Axeworthy
Popkids 28/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
with Martin
rockferret 28/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd pitch. Nice climb, plenty of protection, although I did jam a friend in and have to ab-off to get it back.

with Tony
Hidden 19/Jul/08 Lead
James Mitchelmore 08/Apr/08 Lead O/S
manwithacam 16/Feb/08 AltLd O/S

Very cold and windy. Bit of a fight.

with Chippy & Mr Mantel
Hidden ??/2008 -
nopants ??/2008 AltLd
Hidden 02/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
Justin T 13/Aug/07 Lead
with Wifey
Hidden 13/Aug/07 2nd rpt
Justin T 17/Jun/07 2nd rpt
with Clara
Justin T 29/May/07 Lead rpt
with Martin
Okecroak 22/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
with M Mercy, C. Ebbutt
Chris Ebbutt 22/Apr/07 AltLd
with Dave R.
Hidden 04/Feb/07 2nd O/S
Justin T 04/Feb/07 Lead rpt

Hard top pitch, top of the grade, nice climb!

with Wifey & Martin
climber sim ??/2007 -
AJH 12/Nov/06 Lead
with Crispin
chris j 30/May/06 Lead O/S

Top pitch only

with Chawn
Hidden 27/May/06 Lead O/S
richardr ?/May/06 -
Jon Evans 10/Mar/06 AltLd

great climb

with Mike
Hidden 19/Jun/05 AltLd
Okecroak 09/Mar/03 AltLd
Ben1983 ?/Jun/02 Lead O/S
rockjedi12345 ?/May/01 Lead O/S
with Ian Stocker
AJH ??/1999 AltLd O/S
with Henk
John Andrew Simpson ??/1998 2nd O/S
with Damien Elsdon
Nick Biven ??/1996 Lead O/S

Pulled a huge hold off the left wall near the top which was a bit exciting

with Rich Whitwell
colin milton 10/Jul/94 AltLd
with eric milton and s blagdon
Hidden 25/Apr/92 2nd
Hidden 01/Apr/90 Lead O/S
sdht ??/1990 -
RichardMc 19/Apr/86 Lead O/S
with Jon Clifford-Smith
Nevil ?/Nov/84 -
Hidden 25/Sep/83 Lead O/S
Mike C 09/Mar/82 Lead

First pitch only

with Chris Davis
Ken Taylor 28/Feb/82 AltLd
with Gerry Dunford
mark-abz ?/Feb/81 Lead
with Andy W
Steve Woollard ??/1981 Lead
Mike C 18/Jun/78 Lead

Variation on first pitch only

with Dave Hyde
Steve Bell ??/1976 -
with Chris Gibson
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
kim.mulji, mreynolds, RANGITOTO, Hidden, alexporter, graham knott, northnorthnorth, Hidden
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 41
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 36
Votes cast 32
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set