Triton* VS 5a

Rockfax Description
A very worthwhile top-pitch up the huge right-leaning corner. High in the grade. Start as for Gates of Eden
Start at the arete right of the layback crack..
1) 4a, 21m. Climb Gates of Eden until it is possible to work rightwards to a stance at the base of the corner..
2) 5a, 25m. Climb the long, wide corner-crack with the crux near the top. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: The Daddyhole Project, West Country Climbs.

Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 133 logbooks, and on 6 wishlists.

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Sep/14

timreynolds - AltLd - 03/Sep/14

Hidden - Lead - Jun/14

Hidden - AltLd - 31/May/14

alice fuller - Lead O/S - 17/Mar/14 with kafoozalem

Delectable 2nd pitch, sustained at the top.
Phil79 - AltLd O/S - 15/Mar/14 with Steve H

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Nov/13

owb106 - 14/Sep/13 with Tom Bushell, Caroline Hammond

led P2
steveprice.exmouth - AltLd - 05/Sep/13 with Jeremy Windsor

tombushell - Lead O/S - Sep/13 with Caroline Hammond, Oli Brend

Hidden - Lead - 28/Jul/13

did both pitches well protected on the final slab
Grabtheslab - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/13

One of the best VS's I've ever climbed. Really nice, hard, well protected moves. Better than Gates of Eden in my opinion
leo-z-g - 21/Jun/13

Great route top pitch felt harder than gates of Eden, more sustained perhaps? To the two guys on the route after me today did you find my number 1 dragon cam? If so can you email me at thanks in advance!! ;-)
Felix Ottey - AltLd O/S - 15/Jun/13

Lead P1 with a seagull attacking me throughout! The crux on P2 felt hard.
Merlin - AltLd O/S - 15/Jun/13 with Dave Tait

Layback on last pitch is tricky and quite sustained. Had to sit in 3/4 up after faffing around for too long and getting tired . Nice climb though - will do it clean next time!!
BelayBunney - Lead dog - 01/Jun/13 with Francois

Hidden - AltLd - 21/May/13

Still good! Better technique this time. Lead p2 after partner fell from crux!
Cheese Monkey - Lead rpt - 06/Jan/13 with Iain

Grabtheslab - 2013

Well good corner climbing, a strong line. Quite why I didnt use the crack for my feet I dont know, made life hard for myself. Be very careful around the right hand end of the small Right traverse on p1, stood on a large block which very nearly came off.
Cheese Monkey - Lead O/S - 05/Dec/12 with Ian M

Ian Miller - 2nd - 05/Dec/12 with Ben Darby

Bry - AltLd O/S - 16/Oct/12 with Chris Hind

wolverine - Lead - 13/Oct/12 with Thunderthighsontheloose

Motown - AltLd - 13/Oct/12 with Luke

Led P2, nice climb but a little bit wet on the top section and then started to rain on the top section which made it a little bit more interesting.
Mr Tickle - AltLd O/S - 13/Oct/12 with Will

Didn't quite follow the correct line - headed off to the right instead, which probably made it more E1 5b
Thunderthighsontheloose - 2nd - 13/Oct/12 with Mike Hayes

Top pitch has some lovely climbing.
waydan - 2nd - 10/Aug/12 with ElSwiftos

timreynolds - AltLd - 08/Aug/12 with Stuart

Led p2.Lovely
steveprice.exmouth - AltLd rpt - 08/Aug/12 with Pete Callaghan

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/12

tobydunford - 2nd O/S - 04/Jun/12 with Harry Martin

Second pitch is Hard
Doug miller - AltLd O/S - 13/May/12 with steve sailsbury

Bit of trouble on the second pitch, before realising a lay back was possible
Chris.Irwin - 2nd dog - 13/May/12 with Ed Morris

Ed morris - Lead O/S - 13/May/12 with chris

Did first pitch, Doug did second. Hard second pitch.
SteveoS - AltLd O/S - 13/May/12 with Doug Miller

lead in one long pitch, first half is utter garbage. very chossy, lots of loose rock and very dusty and green. upper half though is tough for VS on a nicely cut corner. 1 star for 1 section of good climbing and good rock. felt harder than gates of eden.
rustaldo - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/12 with Kit Perry

Nails for VS, well the last bit anyway. The first pitch is loose crumbly crap. Don't rate it.
Chris Perry - 2nd - 31/Mar/12

mark schramm - Lead rpt - 12/Feb/12 with Sarah W

Sarah Welsh - 2nd O/S - 12/Feb/12 with Mark Schramm

Ed Babs - AltLd O/S - 21/Jan/12 with Marti

Marti999 - AltLd O/S - 21/Jan/12 with Ed Babington

Lead second pitch. Did I ever pick a winner! Fantastic bridging up a solid corner. Plenty of gear if you want it (cams). Don't layback it unless you have forearms like popeye! Finished in the dark (shock!), and had to ab for a cam that I placed badly. NOTE: 1st belay pegs are infact one mullered rusty peg. Plenty of placements to use instead though.
Dave 88 - AltLd O/S - 06/Dec/11 with minexplorer

both pitches great. led the 1st dave led the top.fairly strong moves at top but there are holds on both the slab an the left wall.belay pegs long rusted away belay 10ft higher
minexplorer - AltLd - 06/Dec/11 with dave88

P1, second pitch is amazing.
Matt Smith - AltLd O/S - 13/Nov/11 with Gid Mordecai, John Tanner

gidmord - 2nd O/S - 13/Nov/11 with Matt Smith, John Tanner

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Oct/11

Hidden - Lead - 27/Sep/11

JackHatton - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/11 with richy mardell

Motown - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/11 with Richy

Homes - Lead - 06/Aug/11 with Jonny C

jcook1980 - AltLd - 06/Aug/11 with Luke Holmes

mark schramm - AltLd - 05/Aug/11 with tom mason

Mark led 1st pitch, tim 2nd. very much enjoyed though finding our way out at the top was a bit difficult
DCIGadget - 2nd O/S - 03/Aug/11 with Mark Schramm, tim sdmc

mark schramm - AltLd - 03/Aug/11 with tim, DCIGadget

timreynolds - AltLd - 03/Aug/11 with Mark Schramm

very hard in the grade, particularly scary with a skeletal rack!
thomb - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/11 with Tom Syrett

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Jun/11

jameshiggins - Lead - 23/May/11 with Neil Adams

jonnie3430 - Lead O/S - 23/May/11 with Carol

Done carrying my rack and rucksack to avoid scrambling!
Ceridwen - 2nd - 22/May/11 with Tiff, Sophie Nunn

Sophie Nunn - AltLd O/S - 22/May/11 with Tiff, Ceridwen Hutchinson

led p2
TiffTiff - AltLd O/S - 22/May/11 with Ceri, Sophie

chris ebbutt - AltLd - 03/May/11 with Dave R.

Okecroak - AltLd - 03/May/11 with C. Ebbutt

rob1 - AltLd - 22/Apr/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Apr/11

Much easier in the dry! Nice route.
francois - Lead rpt - 17/Apr/11 with Tammy

little_tammy - 2nd O/S - 17/Apr/11 with Francois Bocquet

JulesClimbs - AltLd O/S - 14/Apr/11 with Paul

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Apr/11

kyebrooks - Lead β - 03/Apr/11

lead the 2nd pitch, the crux was quite fun as there wasnt to many placements.
brynmays - AltLd O/S - 03/Apr/11 with Kye Brooks

led 2nd pitch, epic bridging!! Hard in the grade!!
Richy boy - AltLd O/S - 02/Apr/11 with NathanC 1994

Awsome Climb, Some Really Tough Moves But Defintely Worth Doing It :D
NathanC 1994 - AltLd O/S - 02/Apr/11 with Richy Mardell

kyebrooks - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/11 with bryn mays

found crux tricky, plenty of cam protection had no cams...bit scarry!
crimpy69 - AltLd - Apr/11

Davebryant - AltLd O/S - Apr/11 with Bryn Mays, Tom Brown

Lead top pitch - lovely.
mark schramm - AltLd - 28/Oct/10 with steve P

Hidden - Lead - 02/Oct/10

Haytor_Haggis - 2nd - 02/Oct/10 with Steve Woollard

better than gates of eden
misterb - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/10 with wain

justin burgoyne - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/10

Lead first pitch, dugs took second. v loose blocks at top of first pitch. Nice second pitch, enjoyed the bridging!
saz_b - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/10 with harry b, Dugald

Second pitch only as we abbed off into the stance.
francois - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/10 with Chawn

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 01/Aug/10

nickdonohue - Lead - 2010 with Steve ?

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Oct/09

twright180 - Lead O/S - 11/Oct/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/09

Hidden - AltLd - 10/Jul/09

RobSteere - 2nd O/S - 14/Mar/09 with John Axeworthy

Popkids - AltLd O/S - 28/Sep/08 with Martin

Lead 2nd pitch. Nice climb, plenty of protection, although I did jam a friend in and have to ab-off to get it back.
rockferret - AltLd O/S - 28/Sep/08 with Tony

Hidden - Lead - 19/Jul/08

James Mitchelmore - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/08

Very cold and windy. Bit of a fight.
manwithacam - AltLd O/S - 16/Feb/08 with Chippy & Mr Mantel

Hidden - 2008

nopants - AltLd - 2008

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Sep/07

Justin T - Lead - 13/Aug/07 with Wifey

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 13/Aug/07

Justin T - 2nd rpt - 17/Jun/07 with Clara

Justin T - Lead rpt - 29/May/07 with Martin

Okecroak - AltLd O/S - 22/Apr/07 with M Mercy, C. Ebbutt

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 04/Feb/07

Hard top pitch, top of the grade, nice climb!
Justin T - Lead rpt - 04/Feb/07 with Wifey & Martin

climber sim - 2007

AJH - Lead - 12/Nov/06 with Crispin

Top pitch only
chris j - Lead O/S - 30/May/06 with Chawn

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/May/06

richardr - May/06

great climb
Jon Evans - AltLd - 10/Mar/06 with Mike

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Jun/05

Okecroak - AltLd - 09/Mar/03

Ben1983 - Lead O/S - Jun/02

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/01

AJH - AltLd O/S - 1999 with Henk

Pulled a huge hold off the left wall near the top which was a bit exciting
Nick Biven - Lead O/S - 1996 with Rich Whitwell

colin milton - AltLd - 10/Jul/94 with eric milton and s blagdon

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Apr/92

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/90

sdht - 1990

RichardMc - Lead - 19/Apr/86 with Jon Clifford-Smith

Hidden - Nov/84

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/83

First pitch only
Mike C - Lead - 09/Mar/82 with Chris Davis

Ken Taylor - AltLd - 28/Feb/82 with Gerry Dunford

mark-abz - Lead - Feb/81 with Andy W

Hidden - Lead - 1981

Variation on first pitch only
Mike C - Lead - 18/Jun/78 with Dave Hyde

Hidden - 1976

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Jamiet297, alexporter, graham knott, northnorthnorth

Total votes cast 101
hard HVS0 of 38
HVS0 of 38
easy HVS9 of 38
hard VS23 of 38
VS6 of 38
easy VS0 of 38
hard HS0 of 38
HS0 of 38
easy HS0 of 38
hard 5b0 of 33
5b0 of 33
easy 5b0 of 33
hard 5a11 of 33
5a21 of 33
easy 5a0 of 33
hard 4c1 of 33
4c0 of 33
easy 4c0 of 33
3 Stars2 of 30
2 Stars20 of 30
1 Star8 of 30
0 Stars0 of 30
Bag of .....0 of 30
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat