UKC

Restricted Access

One of the more convenient and quick-drying crags in the area. Good sport climbing as well as a reasonable selection of trad routes. The popular routes tend to be polished, especially the starts of those on the Lower Lift.

Whitebeams (a rare species of tree) grow on the crag and are an important feature of the SSSI. Please do not cut any trees on or around the crag without gaining permision first as this could result in access issues in future. If you want to carry out cleaning which involves trees, please contact the BMC access team first through access@thebmc.co.uk.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

There is a tawny owl nesting on "It's Over for Jehovah". Avoide all routes between "Head full of hedda" and "What you think"

9m. A short tit-bit, useful as a warm-up that climbs the wall just left of Woke Up Dreamin’.
(There is a large disconcerting calcited flake immediately left of the third bolt that has resisted all attempts by a fat guy with a big crowbar to make it flex. Caution suggests that you should nonetheless avoid mistreating it).
Make a few opening moves up and across right to clip the first high bolt, then climb directly up on surprisingly good holds. Difficulties are all height dependent. Double ring abseil station on the right. Three bolt runners.

UPDATE (April 2021): the hanger on one of the lower-off bolts has been reported as loose/spinning. Make sure it's finger-tight before using it.

Gordon A Jenkin, Yvonne Jones 01/Aug/2015.

Ticklists

CoT Wye Valley Mileage #C2K

Feedback

User Date Notes
WoolyAdventure 5 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Small ledge section right of second bolt, central to the climb seems loose in the centre, unfortunately you pretty much have to use the ledge for both hands and feet so care needed.
Show beta
βeta: Small ledge section right of second bolt, central to the climb seems loose in the centre, unfortunately you pretty much have to use the ledge for both hands and feet so care needed.

Logged Ascents

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High 6a
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Style of Ascent
Lead
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