Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.
GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.
North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made.
All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.
Dates: 1 March to 15 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.
Peregrins nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pithes of left hand route (from the great ledge)
Rockfax Description
Great climbing on a line that is well-loved and well-worn. Start in the corner/groove on the right-hand side of the Freedom pillar.
1) 4c, 13m. Thin climbing up the corner/groove leads to the midway ledge and belay.
2) 4b, 14m. Head up past the initial overhangs and then follow the corner all the way to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Two pitches (4c and 4b), but can be climbed as one.
The bottom pitch is a slab, somewhat polished and harder to protect (micro wires maybe required).
The second pitch follows a small corner/crack to the top (tree or block belay).
Wye's it a trad classic (up to HVS)? , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS) , Bristol Area Easy Trad Ticklist , Wintour's leap
User | Date | Notes | ||
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brian watson | 19 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: As one pitch. Great line, polished, why not 3 stars its polished enough? | βeta? | |
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βeta: As one pitch. Great line, polished, why not 3 stars its polished enough? |
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Fakey Rocks | 31 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: 2nd pitch might be harder? | βeta? | |
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βeta: 2nd pitch might be harder? |
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Wintour's Leap)