UKC

300m, 8 pitches. The spur is in the cirque directly above the Ibon de Piedrafita, beneath the summit of Pena Cachivirizas. This is the subsidiary peak just east of the main Pena Telera summit. The climbing itself is good, on blocky sandstone, with plenty of in-situ pegs, although some of the rock can be quite loose, so a cautious approach is required.

The route is climbed in 8 pitches (6a,V-,V+,IV+,IV,V+,V+,6a), with the first and last pitches being slightly harder than the rest.

To descend, continue along a narrow ridge, which leads to an obvious steep, grey limestone band. Here, turn left, following a feint narrow and exposed path towards the huge col. At the col, descend a long scree slope and eventually gain better paths back to the Ibon de Piedrafita.

Most topos indicate a move of A0 on the first pitch, however, this can be avoided by starting behind a detached block, and taking an obvious leftward slanting capped grove, followed by a pull to the right to rejoin the route, and goes at about V+/6a.

Topo can be found here:
http://www.escalismo.com/?p=117

M. Guerrero & E. Villasur 15/Jun/1991.

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Route of Interest
Sajuma

Grade: TD ***
(Escarrilla)

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