Restricted Access
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
The quarry is leased from the Forestry Commission by Gloucester Wildlife Trust and managed as a nature reserve. Sections of the crag (usually vegetated) are not open for climbing - see p.264/5 of the Wye Valley Guide (CC 1998) for details. The crag is no longer subject to spring nesting restrictions as described in the guidebook.
30m.
The original route on the Central Tower, offering some good but tough climbing. Start in the centre of the main face as for Power of Love and climb the wall past three pegs to the old iron spike. Continue up right to a small niche and pull into the cave. Climb the crack above, and hand-traverse right to finish up a crack through the final overhang.
T Penning, D E Hope 30/Jun/1986.
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Route of Interest
Strange Little Girl
Grade: E4 6a ***
(Wintour's Leap)