SW face (normal route)*** AD
[At the bottom of the slab, ready to go., 2 kb]See the Alpine Club guide or just follow the crowds. In addition to this watch out for frequent stonefall when ascending the loose mixed ground under the Salle a Manger.
If you choose to don't use the fixed ropes it goes at D V+.
B, D and J Maquignaz 28/Jul/1882

Ticklists: Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif.

Photo: At the bottom of the slab, ready to go. © davepc
View all 9 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 119 logbooks, and on 33 wishlists.

Hidden - 2015

ollyroberts - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/14 with Piers Newton

Frank Blakeley - 2nd O/S - 21/Aug/14 with Paul

45 kph wind very cold
greenclimb - AltLd - 18/Aug/14

Alex_RhodesUK - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/14 with Paolo Intropido

The fixed lines really detracted from the experience, I felt like apologising to everyone on the other routes. I wasn't expecting them to be quite so imposing. Definitely worth taking rock shoes and climbing one of the other lines. We did the route with 1X50m rope and were able to descend easily down the normal route in 7 abseils.
chris687 - Lead - 05/Aug/14 with Jo Sumner

Jo sumner - 2nd - 05/Aug/14 with Chris Andrews

andy_e - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/14 with Mike Gallimore

kelly_426 - Jul/14 with Tom Nichols, Luke Dudill

Route was very busy with complete idiots and newbies. Used the fixed ropes twice just to get past them quicker. Brilliant route!
ernieb182 - AltLd O/S - Jul/14 with Remco Graas

paulmck - 10/Jun/14

mike mo - 2014

Hidden - 2014

david0811 - AltLd - 04/Sep/13 with Locky, Mark Reid

Ross L - 2nd O/S - 04/Sep/13 with Robin Beadle

Hidden - Lead - 29/Aug/13

Nigel Bond - AltLd - 14/Jul/13 with Bern Hardman, Michael Gallimore

Climbed in the morning, very cold. Beautiful summit, hairy abseil. Nigel dropped his wallet and 600 went floating down the mountin, making for a crystal maze style abseil descent.
MichaelGallimore - AltLd - 14/Jul/13 with Bern hardman, Nigel

PtereBradley - 2nd O/S - Jul/13 with Phil Dowthwaite

A brilliant route, would be better without the fixed rope and fixed gear.
stanleynkk - AltLd O/S - Jul/13

jcw - 2013

walts4 - 2013

Left the cable car late - 11.30 - having the route to ourselves was worth the descent in the dark! Shamelessly pulled on the ropes the whole way to speed things up.
maria85 - Lead - 27/Aug/12 with Ronnie

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Aug/12

Catsjit - 21/Aug/12

While the large concentration of numpties on this route means less everywhere else, you should do as much as possible to avoid them. We should have climbed the Deant the night before, then bivvied (either Salle a Manger or behind you when you leave the snow for the rocks on the way up,) then did the Rochefort Arete in the. There would have been much less angst from people climbing on top of each other and potentially last lift missing queues for the abseil on top (last lift is 5.) It is sunny from early afternoon so would be nice and warm in the late afternoon too.
jonnie3430 - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/12 with Carol

Climbed traditional way without using the fixed ropes. Very busy with others on the ropes. Better to do in the evening.
Carol Goodall - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/12 with Jonnie Williams

Despite the fixed ropes which turns the climbing into something from an adventure playground and the crowds this is a peak out of your dreams. The most airy summit I have ever been on. Tip- on the section up to the Salle look for cairns on the right. Avoid the loose ground on the left, it looks like the path but isn't.
caradoc - AltLd - 11/Aug/12 with john b

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Jul/12

Did after the traverse of the Rochefort Ridge in a long day. 8 abseils to finish.
James_L88 - 16/Jul/12 with Badger

without fixed rope NOTE: Watch out for the groove during the second or third abseil which will jam your ropes if you don't take care to avoid it. Several parties around us had this problem.
jon_ridley - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/12 with Emily Cropton

Emily Cropton - 2nd - 09/Jul/12 with Jon Ridley

mattfarr - 2nd - 04/Jul/12 with Al BMG

Hidden - 23/Jun/12

Got stuck behind to idiots. Brilliant route though.
Eireannach - 2nd O/S - Jun/12 with Tim

gowla - AltLd - 29/Aug/11 with adam booth

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/Aug/11

Combined with Aiguille de Rochefort West Ridge, long day out!
Elsier - AltLd - 16/Aug/11 with Amy

Hidden - AltLd - 12/Aug/11

Amazing route. Few other parties on it and a real cold wind so ended up using a combination of fixed ropes and climbing to speed things up. Could do with some better gloves to climb in in the cold! Great to do it with my mate Rich. Got back to Helbronner just as the weather, cloud and snow came in. Phew. A memorable day.
coombsy - AltLd - 12/Aug/11 with Rich G

r_findlay - AltLd - 11/Aug/11 with stu_buchan43

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Aug/11

minch - 2nd O/S - Aug/11

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 26/Jul/11

Done from the Torino Hut after the Aguille de Rochefort Ridge. Long wait due to congestion on ascent and at the ab station meant we missed the last lift down. Had to assist a British guide who got lost during the descent.
edmund94 - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/11

Awesome windy climb, epic day, chased back to the Midi by thunderstorms after a night in the Torino. Soaked through.
JonBrown - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/11

Sophie Nunn - Lead dnf - 12/Jul/11 with Olga

Walked in from the Col du Midi. Had packed rock shoes with the aim of not using the fixed ropes, but it was too cold to try and grip the rock. Met up with groups coming from the Torino hut and got to the top without issue. We then decided to wait for the rest of our party with the other rope so we could make the longer abs for descent. After a short while, a pair of british climbers appeared and told us they had turned back, and we could ab down with them (Thanks guys!). Unfortunately this left us in a queue for the ab station as a previous party was having difficulty. We eventually got down with no chance of getting back to the Midi station for the last lift, and decided to bail to the Torino. The forecast for the next day was poor, so we made an early start (despite thunderstorms over Italy) and just caught the first lift down after hauling the remains of the camp in a survival bag from the col to the station. Phew!
Monkey_Alan - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/11 with Jon Brown

marcushorgan - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/11 with Calum Cuthill

rope pulling fun!
ferdia - AltLd β - 11/Jul/11 with Hertha

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Jun/11

goatee - 25/Jun/11 with Dave Commins

Hidden - Lead - Jun/11

Hidden - AltLd - 02/Sep/10

Moved together and downclimbed route due to busy ab station - awful route due to conjestion.
stuart34 - AltLd O/S - 21/Aug/10 with Kim Ladiges

Vincej - 2nd - 11/Aug/10 with Paolo Intrepido

Hidden - Aug/10

Jack Doyle - AltLd dnf - Aug/10

K Farrell - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/10 with Imogen Beal

Ross.Cooper - 2nd O/S - 21/Jul/10 with Remi

Jonny M - Lead dnf - 14/Jul/10 with Helen Tsai

GiveHerHelen - 2nd dnf - 14/Jul/10 with Jon Moulding

After Rochefort arete, Mike and Clay on seperate rope clipping our gear. Started route at 10.30am. Hood was buzzing with electricity on subsidiary summit. Swiss guides refused to let us abseil before all of their friends and clients. Mighty crash 5 mins after getting off last abseil where a lightning bolt hit the Dent 2/3 of the way up. Mike and I felt the electric shock. A frightening 2 hour descent in storm conditions to the Torino. A very sizeable epic.
Cardi - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/10 with Mike Wild

Clay C - AltLd - 10/Jul/10 with Mark

Epic with the lightning and annoying guides
mark_chal - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/10

Hidden - Jul/10

Following from the arete du rochefort
Bristoldave - Lead - 28/Jun/10 with CarolineH

CarolineH - 28/Jun/10 with Dave

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/10

smason - AltLd O/S - 2010

Got to the start of the rock climbing and turned round because of the cold. (Jim-get some gloves you can climb in!) Still it felt f*ing great to be doing something alpine though, 3 1/2 months after leaving hospital.
milkyjoe - AltLd dnf - 13/Sep/09 with jim b

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/09

Hidden - 20/Jul/09

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Jul/09

stevepotter - AltLd - 16/Jul/09 with ken

BorisVBlade - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/09 with Neil Dowse

heist182 - AltLd O/S - Jul/09 with Jamie Tattersall; Wendy Couch

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/09

Hidden - Jul/09

Hidden - 2nd - Jul/09

Stuart Johnston - AltLd - Jul/09

Had the mountain to ourselves. Wasted a bit of time on the walk-in,and I didn't particularly enjoy the fixed ropes: would feel safer doing it properly! Back just in time to catch the last Torino telepherique of the whole season!
andybuckley - Sep/08 with Tom Whipple

Guy Wilson - Aug/08 with Dave Chapman, Phil Emmott

gordon henderson - AltLd dnf - 28/Jul/08 with MRT

HIGHTOWER - AltLd dnf - 28/Jul/08 with Mike (Leuchers)

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/08

robertporter - Jul/08

cat22 - AltLd O/S - Aug/07 with Jane B

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/07

Nicos - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/07 with rich howels

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/07

Joubert - Jul/07

featuresforfeet - AltLd - Sep/06 with Steve

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/06

First on the route and first to the summit july 06, bloody cold to start with but what a position awesome exposure.
shaun walby - AltLd O/S - Jul/06 with Kev Groome

Joubert - Jul/06

Theeni - AltLd O/S - Jun/06 with Matt Dalby

jam_rich - Aug/05

Hidden - 2nd dnf - Aug/05

drysori - Aug/04 with AdamW

Ed Saint - Jul/04

ross, neil adams and tom dunstan
andyinglis - Jun/04 with ross barnes

Ross Barnes - Jun/04 with Neil A, Andy I, Tom D

Neil Adams - 2004 with Andy I, Tom D & Ross B

Bivouacked at the salle a manger, climbed in stickys, 2 hrs.
Paul-Michael - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/03 with Paul Irvin

Hidden - 23/Jun/03

Hidden - 17/Aug/02

We got near the Salle a Manger in a fierce snowstorm, the storm wasn't abating so we retreated.
LakesWinter - AltLd dnf - Aug/02 with Wil

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/01

Dave Bond - Jul/01 with john leyland

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Aug/00

Celia Watson - Lead - 25/Aug/00 with stuart watson

Great morning climb with a sad end when another climber fell off and died next to my rucksack.
Conan - Aug/97 with Tony Chaplin

Richard Weller - 18/Aug/93 with Simon Currin

Daniel Wrightson - AltLd O/S - 1993 with Andrea Tafi

Nigel Coe - AltLd - Jul/79 with John Walmsley

Bolt Phobia - AltLd - Jul/78

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Tony Ryland, ian.ross.bnc, Nath93, McPhail92, Richardlake, Gary Coggon, m296mux, ryan_naked24, Swampi, Peter Metcalfe, Adamski1986, bonoid, jamesbrown1979, Tom Hutton, squicky, ckmoffat, Pat-H, shane54, Jon Pilling, Watty, robdan, Alexander123, punj

Total votes cast 23
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