See the Alpine Club guide or just follow the crowds. In addition to this watch out for frequent stonefall when ascending the loose mixed ground under the Salle a Manger.
If you choose to don't use the fixed ropes it goes at D V+.

B, D and J Maquignaz 28/Jul/1882

Ticklists: Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif.

joelevanschamonix 29/Aug AltLd
with Tim Oliver, Ally Hurst
Hidden 27/Aug AltLd
Hidden 27/Aug AltLd
Suzana 21/Aug Lead

Led in Big boots. Used the fixed ropes for speed.

with Lucy Greenhill, Dorota Bankowska
Hidden 20/Aug AltLd
Hidden 20/Aug AltLd
Oo 17/Aug -
jules1990 12/Aug Lead O/S
with Dave Missing
alooker ?/Aug Lead
Hidden 30/Jul AltLd
Hidden 20/Jul Lead
HP9 16/Jul 2nd
with Tomo cesen
ned_85 15/Jul AltLd

Without fixed ropes; amazing route and location but they do detract from the experience a little. First on the route and well worthy of the cold start.

Fletch12 15/Jul Lead

Second Alpine lead.

with Anthony Darbyshire, Kenny McMahon
Avinash Aujayeb 15/Jul 2nd
with ales cesen
JdotP ?/Jul AltLd O/S

A few cheeky pulls on the fixed rope near the top when time was running short...

with Luke Bounds, The innocent one, Magda Borkowska
cearbhalld 27/Jun AltLd

Bitterly cold after early start from Rifugio Torino. Dogged up the big white rope...would have been more comfortable in boots.

davkeo 27/Jun AltLd O/S

5am start. Cold and windy. Climbed in down jacket and gloves all the way monkeying up the fixed rope. Looks like a nice free climb if u can avoid the big white cord. Very physical.

Hidden ??/2015 -
joelevanschamonix ??/2015 -
ollyroberts 25/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Aug/14 2nd RP
Frank Blakeley 21/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Paul
greenclimb 18/Aug/14 AltLd

45 kph wind very cold

Alex_RhodesUK 08/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
with Paolo Intropido
chris687 05/Aug/14 Lead

The fixed lines really detracted from the experience, I felt like apologising to everyone on the other routes. I wasn't expecting them to be quite so imposing. Definitely worth taking rock shoes and climbing one of the other lines. We did the route with 1X50m rope and were able to descend easily down the normal route in 7 abseils.

Jo sumner 05/Aug/14 2nd
Hidden 01/Aug/14 AltLd
andy_e 20/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with Mike Gallimore
kelly_426 ?/Jul/14 -
with Tom Nichols, Luke Dudill
ernieb182 ?/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Route was very busy with complete idiots and newbies. Used the fixed ropes twice just to get past them quicker. Brilliant route!

with Remco Graas
paulmck 10/Jun/14 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
david0811 04/Sep/13 AltLd
with Locky, Mark Reid
Ross L 04/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with Robin Beadle
Hidden 29/Aug/13 Lead
Nigel Bond 14/Jul/13 AltLd
with Bern Hardman, Michael Gallimore
MichaelGallimore 14/Jul/13 AltLd

Climbed in the morning, very cold. Beautiful summit, hairy abseil. Nigel dropped his wallet and 600 went floating down the mountin, making for a crystal maze style abseil descent.

with Bern hardman, Nigel
PtereBradley ?/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Phil Dowthwaite
stanleynkk ?/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

A brilliant route, would be better without the fixed rope and fixed gear.

jcw ??/2013 -
walts4 ??/2013 -
maria85 27/Aug/12 Lead

Left the cable car late - 11.30 - having the route to ourselves was worth the descent in the dark! Shamelessly pulled on the ropes the whole way to speed things up.

with Ronnie
Hidden 27/Aug/12 2nd
Catsjit 21/Aug/12 -
jonnie3430 17/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

While the large concentration of numpties on this route means less everywhere else, you should do as much as possible to avoid them. We should have climbed the Deant the night before, then bivvied (either Salle a Manger or behind you when you leave the snow for the rocks on the way up,) then did the Rochefort Arete in the. There would have been much less angst from people climbing on top of each other and potentially last lift missing queues for the abseil on top (last lift is 5.) It is sunny from early afternoon so would be nice and warm in the late afternoon too.

with Carol
Carol Goodall 17/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Climbed traditional way without using the fixed ropes. Very busy with others on the ropes. Better to do in the evening.

caradoc 11/Aug/12 AltLd

Despite the fixed ropes which turns the climbing into something from an adventure playground and the crowds this is a peak out of your dreams. The most airy summit I have ever been on. Tip- on the section up to the Salle look for cairns on the right. Avoid the loose ground on the left, it looks like the path but isn't.

with john b
Hidden ?/Aug/12 AltLd
Hidden 22/Jul/12 2nd O/S
James_L88 16/Jul/12 -

Did after the traverse of the Rochefort Ridge in a long day. 8 abseils to finish.

with Badger
jon_ridley 09/Jul/12 Lead O/S

without fixed rope NOTE: Watch out for the groove during the second or third abseil which will jam your ropes if you don't take care to avoid it. Several parties around us had this problem.

Emily Cropton 09/Jul/12 2nd
mattfarr 04/Jul/12 2nd
with Al BMG
Hidden 23/Jun/12 -
Eireannach ?/Jun/12 2nd O/S

Got stuck behind to idiots. Brilliant route though.

with Tim
gowla 29/Aug/11 AltLd
with adam booth
Hidden 24/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Elsier 16/Aug/11 AltLd

Combined with Aiguille de Rochefort West Ridge, long day out!

with Amy
Hidden 12/Aug/11 AltLd
coombsy 12/Aug/11 AltLd

Amazing route. Few other parties on it and a real cold wind so ended up using a combination of fixed ropes and climbing to speed things up. Could do with some better gloves to climb in in the cold! Great to do it with my mate Rich. Got back to Helbronner just as the weather, cloud and snow came in. Phew. A memorable day.

with Rich G
r_findlay 11/Aug/11 AltLd
Hidden 11/Aug/11 AltLd
minch ?/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Jul/11 AltLd dnf
edmund94 15/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Done from the Torino Hut after the Aguille de Rochefort Ridge. Long wait due to congestion on ascent and at the ab station meant we missed the last lift down. Had to assist a British guide who got lost during the descent.

JonBrown 13/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Awesome windy climb, epic day, chased back to the Midi by thunderstorms after a night in the Torino. Soaked through.

Sophie Nunn 12/Jul/11 Lead dnf
with Olga
Monkey_Alan 12/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Walked in from the Col du Midi. Had packed rock shoes with the aim of not using the fixed ropes, but it was too cold to try and grip the rock. Met up with groups coming from the Torino hut and got to the top without issue. We then decided to wait for the rest of our party with the other rope so we could make the longer abs for descent. After a short while, a pair of british climbers appeared and told us they had turned back, and we could ab down with them (Thanks guys!). Unfortunately this left us in a queue for the ab station as a previous party was having difficulty. We eventually got down with no chance of getting back to the Midi station for the last lift, and decided to bail to the Torino. The forecast for the next day was poor, so we made an early start (despite thunderstorms over Italy) and just caught the first lift down after hauling the remains of the camp in a survival bag from the col to the station. Phew!

marcushorgan 12/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Calum Cuthill
ferdia 11/Jul/11 AltLd β

rope pulling fun!

with Hertha
Hidden 27/Jun/11 2nd O/S
goatee 25/Jun/11 -
Hidden ?/Jun/11 Lead
Hidden 02/Sep/10 AltLd
stuart34 21/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Moved together and downclimbed route due to busy ab station - awful route due to conjestion.

with Kim Ladiges
Vincej 11/Aug/10 2nd
with Paolo Intrepido
Hidden ?/Aug/10 -
Jack Doyle ?/Aug/10 AltLd dnf
K Farrell 28/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with Imogen Beal
Ross.Cooper 21/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Remi
Hidden 16/Jul/10 -
Jonny M 14/Jul/10 Lead dnf
GiveHerHelen 14/Jul/10 2nd dnf
Cardi 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S

After Rochefort arete, Mike and Clay on seperate rope clipping our gear. Started route at 10.30am. Hood was buzzing with electricity on subsidiary summit. Swiss guides refused to let us abseil before all of their friends and clients. Mighty crash 5 mins after getting off last abseil where a lightning bolt hit the Dent 2/3 of the way up. Mike and I felt the electric shock. A frightening 2 hour descent in storm conditions to the Torino. A very sizeable epic.

with Mike Wild
Clay C 10/Jul/10 AltLd
with Mark
mark_chal 10/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Epic with the lightning and annoying guides

Bristoldave 28/Jun/10 Lead

Following from the arete du rochefort

CarolineH 28/Jun/10 -
with Dave
Hidden ?/Jun/10 AltLd
smason ??/2010 AltLd O/S
milkyjoe 13/Sep/09 AltLd dnf

Got to the start of the rock climbing and turned round because of the cold. (Jim-get some gloves you can climb in!) Still it felt f*ing great to be doing something alpine though, 3 1/2 months after leaving hospital.

with jim b
Hidden 01/Sep/09 AltLd
Hidden 23/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Jul/09 -
Hidden 20/Jul/09 AltLd
stevepotter 16/Jul/09 AltLd
with ken
BorisVBlade 01/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
heist182 ?/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with Jamie Tattersall; Wendy Couch
Hidden ?/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/09 -
Hidden ?/Jul/09 2nd
Stuart Johnston ?/Jul/09 AltLd
andybuckley ?/Sep/08 -

Had the mountain to ourselves. Wasted a bit of time on the walk-in,and I didn't particularly enjoy the fixed ropes: would feel safer doing it properly! Back just in time to catch the last Torino telepherique of the whole season!

with Tom Whipple
Guy Wilson ?/Aug/08 -
with Dave Chapman, Phil Emmott
gordon henderson 28/Jul/08 AltLd dnf
with MRT
HIGHTOWER 28/Jul/08 AltLd dnf
with Mike (Leuchers)
Hidden 09/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
robertporter ?/Jul/08 -
cat22 ?/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
with Jane B
Hidden ?/Aug/07 AltLd
Nicos 16/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/07 AltLd
Joubert ?/Jul/07 -
featuresforfeet ?/Sep/06 AltLd

with Steve
Hidden ?/Jul/06 AltLd
shaun walby ?/Jul/06 AltLd O/S

First on the route and first to the summit july 06, bloody cold to start with but what a position awesome exposure.

with Kev Groome
Joubert ?/Jul/06 -
Theeni ?/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
with Matt Dalby
jam_rich ?/Aug/05 -
Hidden ?/Aug/05 2nd dnf
drysori ?/Aug/04 -
with AdamW
Ed Saint ?/Jul/04 -
andyinglis ?/Jun/04 -

ross, neil adams and tom dunstan

Ross Barnes ?/Jun/04 -
with Neil A, Andy I, Tom D
Neil Adams ??/2004 -
with Andy I, Tom D & Ross B
Paul-Michael 08/Aug/03 Lead O/S

Bivouacked at the salle a manger, climbed in stickys, 2 hrs.

with Paul Irvin
Hidden 23/Jun/03 -
Hidden 17/Aug/02 -
LakesWinter ?/Aug/02 AltLd dnf

We got near the Salle a Manger in a fierce snowstorm, the storm wasn't abating so we retreated.

with Wil
Hidden 30/Jul/01 AltLd O/S
Dave Bond ?/Jul/01 -
with john leyland
Hidden 25/Aug/00 2nd
Celia Watson 25/Aug/00 Lead
Conan ?/Aug/97 -

Great morning climb with a sad end when another climber fell off and died next to my rucksack.

with Tony Chaplin
Richard Weller 18/Aug/93 -
with Simon Currin
Daniel Wrightson ??/1993 AltLd O/S
with Andrea Tafi
Nigel Coe ?/Jul/79 AltLd
with John Walmsley
Bolt Phobia ?/Jul/78 AltLd
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Doug miller, 67hours, will_lake, MaccMark, Hidden, Hidden, DBoothroyd, kingjam, Hidden, Matthew Martin Wsm, Hidden, Tony Ryland, ian.ross.bnc, Nath93, McPhail92, Richardlake, Gary Coggon, John Procter, Hidden, Hidden, Swampi, Hidden, Peter Metcalfe, Hidden, Adamski1986, bonoid, Hidden, Hidden, jamesbrown1979, Tom Hutton, Hidden, Hidden, squicky, ckmoffat, Hidden, Pat-H, Hidden, shane54, Jon Pilling, Watty, robdan, Alexander123, Hidden, punj
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Votes cast 14
Votes cast 13
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
Not Set