Deep-Cut Chimney*** IV 4
[The second mixed section, 3 kb]No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: Cold Climbs, Mountaineering in Scotland: in the footsteps of WH Murray, Great routes in the Coe, 3 star Scottish winter.

Photo: The second mixed section © MadProfessor
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This climb is in 82 logbooks, and on 32 wishlists.

guy757 - 27/Feb/15

In very poor condition with unconsolidated snow and ice. Very tenuous and insecure, felt like V,6 today. Took right exit from amphitheatre although the ice smear on the left would probably have been climbable albeit a bit thin. Abseiled off after the main difficulties from 150m up due to impending darkness.
Andrew Sloan - AltLd O/S - 21/Feb/15 with Steve Grove

A bit thin on ice, and I thought the gear was somewhat uninspiring on the first two pitches.
LJC - Lead O/S - 14/Feb/15 with Alex

rob16 - AltLd - 08/Feb/15 with Matt Brook

Nice bonus pitch at top. Cracking day with good variety of climbing.
davkeo - AltLd O/S - 08/Feb/15 with Cearbhall Daly

cearbhalld - AltLd O/S - 08/Feb/15 with Dave Keogh

Amazing climb. the pitch at the top was the cherry on the top.
Dougbart - Lead - 08/Feb/15 with Ruban

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Feb/15

Awesome, 3d ice and top class mixed. Was starting to get a bit melty.
Olli-C - AltLd O/S - 07/Feb/15 with Pete Edwards

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Feb/15

Roger Pyddoke - AltLd - 07/Feb/15

Stunning day of Alpine conditions in Glencoe, but found the climb itself underwhelming. Perhaps the stars are for the historical significance.
planetmarshall - AltLd - 06/Feb/15 with Christopher Douglas

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Feb/15

Diggler - AltLd O/S - 06/Feb/15 with jonah

Full on mountain day, 6 hrs roped up plus a decent yomp. Brilliant varied route, good ice most of the way. Blue skies too!!
stoneback - 2nd - 05/Feb/15 with ken

Brilliant esoteric climbing in another of Glencoe's atmospheric gullies. Found a great pitch of grade 4 ice towards the top too.
Ken Applegate - Lead - 05/Feb/15 with Nick S

GlennWatson - AltLd - 05/Feb/15 with Ken Christie

plain kitten - AltLd - 01/Feb/15

RocKalina - AltLd - Feb/15 with Mark, climberandy

chrisallan - AltLd O/S - 31/Jan/15

Hidden - AltLd - Jan/15

Nick Wallis - 2015 with Stan, BMC international meet

yesbutnobutyesbut - 2014

Condition: "Interesting". Vairable quality ice and neve, and three short but quite pokey mixed sections. Since it was snowing most of the day, the gullies and slopes at the top had lots of unconsolidated snow. A full-on winter's outing.
MadProfessor - 12/Apr/13

Great route. First pitch was quite dry at the crux and so awkward to get over the buldge. The rest was pretty straight forward, but surprisingly long!
Stuart Johnston - AltLd O/S - 01/Apr/13 with Adam Ryan, Dave Cowell

adam 24 - 2nd O/S - 31/Mar/13

Hidden - Lead - 24/Mar/13

climbtim - AltLd - 14/Mar/13

Steve led 1st pitch, lean and melting. I was 15m up 2nd pitch when steve hit by falling rock. As he was profusely bleeding from a cut to his forehead we abseilled off and headed to A and E. Will come back and do it when in full winter condition as looks like a very good route.
Andrew Sloan - AltLd dnf - 02/Mar/13 with Steve Grove

darrenasquith - AltLd - 02/Mar/13

Good neve/ice, finished by NW gully right fork
lawrenceK - AltLd - 22/Feb/13

Good day and conditions ok, although snow a bit soft. Climbed with Paul.
kenneM - Lead - 12/Feb/13 with Paul Elliott

Dunx - AltLd - 10/Feb/13 with Steve Holmes

A bit soft but well banked out and still plenty of ice. Wall pitch well iced, continued on up to summit, a good route but not ****.
Captain Solo - AltLd - 09/Feb/13 with Brian

Tim Rodgers - Lead - 19/Jan/13 with Rod Molyneux

up to the ampitheatre. Lean conditions around first step, would be easier if banked out
edmitchell - Lead O/S - 19/Jan/13

dawp4810 - 2nd - Jan/13

Jacks20 - AltLd - 2013

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

adie84 - 2011

PAJames - 2011

Hidden - 2011

In poor condition. Baled at the birfurcation.
Ian Jones - 2nd dnf - 22/Dec/10 with Dan Moore

Hidden - Lead dnf - 22/Dec/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Nov/10

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Mar/10

John Carney - 2nd O/S - 12/Mar/10 with Rob Jarvis

joe king - AltLd O/S - 02/Mar/10 with steve pettit

steveP - AltLd O/S - 02/Mar/10 with Paul Rowlands

Superb route all the way to the summit. Down via An t-Sron.
Adi Hooper - AltLd - 16/Feb/10 with Roger Ward

Hidden - AltLd - 2010

Hidden - 2010

With Cath Wilson
davebrox - Lead - 2009

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Mar/08

lots of snow, pretty difficult conditions. Lovely climb though.
smithaldo - AltLd O/S - 29/Feb/08 with andreas

pete dd - Lead β - Mar/07 with Iain Swan

gregor - Feb/07

Hidden - AltLd - 2006

DerwentDiluted - AltLd - Feb/03 with J. Ellson

Hidden - Lead - Feb/00

nickcanute - AltLd - Jan/00 with tim parkinson

Hidden - 2000

Dave Kerr - AltLd - 13/Feb/99 with Brian Dickson, Martina Osterloh

Hidden - 1999

Hidden - Lead - Feb/97

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Mar/96

Smith42 - Mar/96 with Lenny

NeilGriffiths - 1996 with Steve Roberts

mattnuttall - Lead O/S - 27/Jan/95 with Dan (SCUM), Pete (SCUM)

Hidden - Mar/93

Scott_vzr - 2nd - Nov/92

Scott_vzr - 2nd dnf - 12/Nov/91 with Peter Davis

mark-abz - AltLd - 02/Feb/91 with Simon K

Thin conditions, inc. tricky/necky, turf-nicking lead of top pitch (R wall of gully to exit onto slopes). One of my most memorable days out. 1990?
Gary Coggon - AltLd O/S - 1990 with Mike Block

Hidden - AltLd - Feb/86

biggianthead - 03/Mar/84 with HT

Hidden - AltLd - 14/Feb/84

Hidden - AltLd - 12/Feb/78

Soloed right fork late 70's i think.
Lone Rider - Solo - 1978

Peg for aid on first pitch
Derek Ryden - Lead - 29/Mar/75 with Brian Evans

Hidden - Feb/68

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Gazlynn, JenRoberts, Hannah Evans, stevieweesaxs107, Swampi, Adamski1986, andybuckley, Hanakin, punj, Batt, Hoyes, iksander, JonmapDL, oscaig, joeydurkin, riven, Dustin, Ian Jones, Only a hill

Total votes cast 48
hard V0 of 16
V0 of 16
easy V1 of 16
hard IV6 of 16
IV7 of 16
easy IV2 of 16
hard III0 of 16
III0 of 16
easy III0 of 16
hard 50 of 17
52 of 17
easy 51 of 17
hard 42 of 17
411 of 17
easy 41 of 17
hard 30 of 17
30 of 17
easy 30 of 17
3 Stars10 of 15
2 Stars5 of 15
1 Star0 of 15
0 Stars0 of 15
Bag of .....0 of 15
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Style of ascent
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Clean O/S
Clean β