Climb the Milieu Glacier from the Argentiere hut, the last slope is 45 degrees for a few hundred metres

Ticklists: Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif.

ndraper1 24/Jan -

ski descent

with Pete Houghton
danfitz 26/Oct/15 -
with Pete Houghton
Neil D 07/Mar/15 -
joelevanschamonix ??/2015 -
Clay C 03/Sep/14 -


with Hannah, George
67hours 03/Sep/14 -


with Hannah, Clay
jonskippy 08/Aug/14 -


alastairbegley 31/Jul/14 -


Slick 31/Jul/14 -
ndraper1 06/Jul/14 -

In descent.

Hidden 11/Apr/14 -
Hidden 10/Mar/14 Solo
chapmand 10/Mar/14 Solo O/S
with Rory Brown
Hidden 24/Feb/14 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Finn Curry 21/Aug/13 Lead dnf

John suffering from altitude so turned back from about 150m below summit, halfway up the narrow part of the final snow slopes.

with John Wilshaw
Hidden 14/Aug/13 -
prwalker 14/Aug/13 -
with wupert
Hidden 23/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Bruce S 23/Jul/13 2nd O/S
thomaspomfrett 01/Jul/13 -

In descent

with Will Groat
Hidden 01/Jul/13 Lead rpt
Strachan ?/Jul/13 -

In descent

Hidden ?/Jul/13 -
kelly_426 ?/Jun/13 -
Hidden 25/Apr/13 Solo O/S
Hidden 18/Apr/13 Solo
Hidden 18/Apr/13 -
Hidden 01/Apr/13 Solo
Stuart Johnston 04/Mar/13 Solo O/S

On skis. Quick ascent from GM. Would have been better skiing if we waited for the sun to warm the slopes.

with Misha Gopaul
Hidden 18/Feb/13 Solo
Hidden ??/2013 -
Tobias at Home ??/2013 -
jcw ??/2013 -
walts4 ??/2013 -
Hidden 23/Jul/12 AltLd dnf
Sophie Nunn 23/Jul/12 AltLd dnf
with Tom T, Floris
ashtond6 20/Jul/12 Lead
Hidden 07/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Webster 07/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

moved together in descenbt, far to late in the day after mini epic on wymper route. crevase fiel;d was a nightmare with partially soft snow covered crevasses everywhere!

efetunc ?/Jul/12 Lead dnf

Rafal was suffering mild altitude sickness and exhaustion. Returned from halfway up Milieu Glacier. Having climbed the 60 degree ice at the lip of the glacier.

with Rafal Malczyk
Hidden 04/Mar/12 -
Binder 20/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Chris L
Chris L Hill 10/Aug/11 -

Nice climb, very good snow conditions made for a quick day out.

with Simon Pearce
Jim Brownlow 02/Aug/11 AltLd
with Joe Toller
nigel pearson 01/Aug/11 -
with Mark
Simon Preuss ?/Aug/11 -
with Andy, Phil
efetunc ?/Aug/11 -

Debris from above was a problem on the descent.

Hidden ?/Aug/11 -
Hidden 31/Jul/11 -
Hidden 31/Jul/11 -
Hidden 31/Jul/11 -
JdotP 31/Jul/11 -

Acclimatisation bimble

with Krzysztof Gorgolewski, Bike Bore
Erlaak 25/Jun/11 -
mark_jc ?/Jun/11 -
Kris ?/May/11 Solo

Ski descent

Ben Briggs 25/Apr/11 Solo
with Ed
mike.moss 23/Apr/11 Solo O/S
Rollo 23/Apr/11 Solo O/S

Conditions good but little acclimatisation; left Tommy at 3700m and went to the top with Mike. Awesome, but was wasted afterwards.

with Mike
HarryB 10/Apr/11 -

Phils binding snapped off just below the burgschrund so we decided to just ski down from there

Hidden 31/Jan/11 Solo
Hidden ??/2011 -
thegoatstroker 11/Sep/10 -
with Chris Cox
Hidden 02/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
jac00 04/Aug/10 Solo O/S
with Tom
tomtom89 04/Aug/10 Solo O/S
with Jack
jogle03 25/Jul/10 AltLd
JonBrown 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Steve, Simon
thetradlad 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S
ffdalton 06/Jul/10 -
with Dean Dalton
Hidden 05/Jul/10 -
goatee 21/Jun/10 -

a tough slog in soft snow. views on top well worth the effort

Hidden ?/Jun/10 -
keith leonard ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Guy Wilson ??/2010 -
cmsg 22/Jul/09 Lead dnf

Glacier dry. Crevasse minefield. Reached bergschrund, and decided snow in no fit state to be climbed. Retreated. Heard a huge avalanche that froze us in terror, but may have happened on Chardonnet glacier, as nothing came down. Heard today that there's now a river running down the thing.

with Lisa
vvanhinsbergh 05/Jul/08 AltLd O/S


with Steve Williams
Matthallinan ?/Jul/08 -
Jim Brooke ?/Aug/07 -


with Malcolm, Jamie Boyd
Hidden ?/Jul/07 AltLd
Hidden 29/Jun/07 AltLd
Bristoldave ??/2007 -
with douglas
Si dH 10/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
with Paddy Snow
Hidden ?/Jul/06 -
mmalbon ?/Jul/06 -

This was supposed to be the easy training climb before doing Mont Blanc a few days later. Got to within ~150 meters of sumit then ran out of time. Slipped on the way down the steep bit above the Bergschrund. We eventually stopped a few meters above the bergschrund with Simon's face dripping with blood - luckily nothing too serious though! We then got caught in 2 thunderstorms and a rock fall on the way back down to Argentiere village from the hut.

with Simon and James
Marmot Catcher 30/Jun/06 AltLd
stevomcd 18/Apr/06 Solo

Climbed up the glacier du milieu, then descended by snowboard down the couloir Barbey on the swiss side.

Hidden ?/Apr/06 Solo
Peter Metcalfe 20/Sep/05 AltLd
andyinglis 15/Jun/05 -
with Tom Dunstan, Neil Adams, ross barnes
Neil Adams 15/Jun/05 -
featuresforfeet ?/Jun/05 -

A round trip from the UK in a weekend. Purgatory.

with The Tweddler
Piers Harley ?/Jun/05 Solo
clams ??/2005 -
with AD
Gibbo ?/Jul/04 AltLd
with Tom Gibbison
adamscottthomas 19/Jun/04 Solo

With Ollie.

Ross Barnes ?/Jun/04 -
with Neil A, Andy I, Tom D
Neil Adams ?/Jun/04 -
with Andy I, Tom D & Ross B
John Andrew Simpson ?/Jun/03 Lead O/S
with Taff, Mo Holmes
stuartm555 12/Jul/02 AltLd
with Douglas Cowan
Alpandy ?/Jul/02 AltLd
with Matt Owen
Paul-Michael 14/Aug/01 Lead O/S

From Refuge du Argentiere, 5 1/2 hr PD-

with Mark McCaffrey, Paul Nurse
Hidden 12/Jul/01 -
Bob M ?/Jul/01 -
with Richard Mott, Jill Stevens
Hidden ?/Jun/01 2nd dnf
ashpreston ??/2001 AltLd dnf
rlrs ?/Sep/00 AltLd

In ascent

Hidden ?/Sep/00 AltLd O/S
NickBrown ?/Jul/99 AltLd O/S
with Tim
gwedgwood ?/Jul/98 2nd
with A N Other, Murray Ball
stokesrees ??/1997 Lead
with gilles lalanne
Hidden 17/Jul/96 AltLd
Hidden ?/Mar/94 -
John Andrew Simpson ?/Mar/94 Solo

Spring ski mountaineering trip in touring skis and koflach mountaineering boots with small group with a bivi under rock at bottom of climb. Ski upto bergschrund, and walk to top in knee deep snow. Pretty much suvival ski down lots of racing snow plow, kick turns and headplants

with Lewy Lewis, Neil Greenwood, Andy Valance, Rick, Adam Dobby, Ian Roberts
ste_d 20/Aug/92 AltLd O/S
with mik
mikedelderfield 01/Aug/92 AltLd O/S
auld al ?/Aug/91 AltLd O/S
Pete_Frost ?/Jul/91 Lead
agagsgrot ?/Jul/90 -
Budge ??/1990 AltLd O/S
with Richard Teed
Hidden ??/1990 -
gallonj ?/Aug/89 -
Chris Ellis 26/Jul/89 -
with Dan Morgan, Dave Turner, Rob Gale
mark-abz ?/Aug/88 AltLd
with Andy W
Hidden ?/Jul/84 -
Nevil ?/Aug/81 -

Used as descent.

with Simon
leland stamper ??/1979 AltLd
with Hugh Grandfield
Steve Bell ??/1977 -
Bolt Phobia ?/Aug/75 AltLd dnf

Turned back quite high up - poor visibility.

Steve Woollard 12/Aug/74 Lead
with Andrew Huch, Malcolm Parker
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
mja521, Hidden, tdudley
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Votes cast 6
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