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Broken In VS 5a

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[Al Wildman finishing Broken In (HS 4b) Broken Buttress, Stanage, 2 kb]The groove and crack lead to a tough finale up the short steep headwall. © ROCKFAX

Photo: Al Wildman finishing Broken In (HS 4b) Broken Buttress, Stanage © Falko Rech
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 35 logbooks, and on no wishlists.

jshields - 2nd - 29/Jul/12 with Ruth Gordon

HS 4b in the BMC guide which is more like it, though I may have finished slightly too far left at the top. A good route.
Toreador - Lead O/S - 12/Nov/11 with Rob

crappy lower down but nice from half way, staying well right at the top might just about make it 4c
lithos - 2nd - 12/Nov/11 with Toreador

Not VS and didn't find 5a move on it. Stanage Definitive guide put this at HS 4b. It's closer to that than VS 5a
staceyjg - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/11 with Chris Gardner

minaturechris - 2nd O/S - 07/Aug/11 with Stacey

erica - 2nd dog - 24/Jul/11 with Chris

The HS 4b from the BMC guidebook seems more realistic.
graphiclunarkid - Lead O/S - 21/May/11 with Tom

dpmUK - 2nd O/S - 21/May/11 with James Rowe

hang_about - Lead - 17/Apr/11

No way is this a VS!
cloneragan - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/11

migs493 - Solo O/S - 30/Oct/10

buxtoncoffeelover - Lead - 11/Aug/10

martinbettridge06 - Lead - May/10

Hidden - Solo O/S - 10/Apr/10

Jim Malo - 2nd - 04/Oct/09

IAN NET - Lead - Oct/09

gareth_hull - Lead O/S - 31/May/09 with Poz

dashitboarder - 2nd - 24/May/09 with Dad

self belay.
mike bridges - Lead O/S - 21/May/09

Adam1973 - Lead O/S - 09/May/09 with Jon Lury

J R R Hartley - 2nd - May/09 with Gian-Luca

deacondeacon - Lead - 28/Jun/08 with Paul

Paulio79 - 28/Jun/08 with deacon

monkeyjumper - Lead - May/08

Nicos - Solo O/S - 10/Apr/08 with solo

cem - 2nd O/S - 10/Feb/08 with Graham Dolman

chris_j_s - 2nd - 09/Feb/08 with Catherine Speakman

Hidden - 2008

VS 5a???? HS 4b????
Ing - Lead - 09/Sep/07 with Jim

D Berry - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/07 with Claire Berry

John Brayshaw - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/07 with Bunny, Erica

erica - 2nd - 22/Jul/07 with John

JohnHutch - Lead - 24/May/04 with L

Andy Say - Lead - 16/May/04

Iain Thow - Solo - 02/Jan/97

Voting
Total votes cast 30
hard HVS0 of 11
HVS0 of 11
easy HVS0 of 11
hard VS0 of 11
VS1 of 11
easy VS0 of 11
hard HS10 of 11
HS0 of 11
easy HS0 of 11
hard 5b0 of 10
5b0 of 10
easy 5b0 of 10
hard 5a0 of 10
5a1 of 10
easy 5a0 of 10
hard 4c9 of 10
4c0 of 10
easy 4c0 of 10
3 Stars0 of 9
2 Stars0 of 9
1 Star3 of 9
0 Stars6 of 9
Bag of .....0 of 9
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Style of ascent

Soloed4 of 35 (11.4%)
Lead18 of 35 (51.4%)
Followed11 of 35 (31.4%)
Unknown2 of 35 (5.7%)

'Climbed'19 of 35 (54.3%)
clean O/S15 of 35 (42.9%)
dogged1 of 35 (2.9%)