135m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
(Sons of the Sun) A fine mixture of slab climbing and finger-cracks makes this a route not to miss - one of Lofoten's best climbs at the grade. It follows the thin vertical cracks up the left side of Sjøsvaet. Carry a modern rack, including small and medium sized cams. Double ropes are needed to protect the friction traverse on pitch 2, and for the descent.
1) 5+, 35m. This pitch is better than it looks. From the starting ledge, move left into the base of a grassy groove system. Climb straight up this to a flake on the right, chimney behind this block, then from its top, make a tricky stride across the gap. Climb up a short slab then traverse right to a good belay ledge in a corner.
2) 6, 50m. Climb up the short cracks above into an easier wide crack. From high wires (make them good ones) step back down 5m and make a precarious traverse left across the slab. Then step up into the prominent finger-crack which is very thin at the start and at the top. Climb the crack and step right to a fine stance with a double-bolt anchor.
3) 5, 30m. Climb the finger-crack up the left-hand side of the upper slab. When it ends, continue past a bolt to an excellent belay ledge on the left with a single bolt anchor - and a steady supply of fresh drinking water on the left.
4) 5, 20m. Move up the shoulder (bolt) then pad up the slab on the right past a second bolt before easier moves lead to the top and another nice belay ledge with another double-bolt belay. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A fine mixture of slab climbing and finger cracks makes this a route not to miss - one of Lofotens best climbs at the grade. It follows the thin vertical cracks up the left side of Sjosvaet. Carry a modern rack, including small and medium sized cams. Double ropes are needed to protect the friction traverse of pitch 2, and for the descent.
1) 5+, 35m. This pitch is better than it looks. From the starting ledge, move left into the base of a grassy groove system. Climb straight up this to a flake on the right, chimney behind this block, then from its top make a tricky stride across the gap. Climb up a short slab then traverse right to a good belay ledge in a corner.
2) 6, 50m. Climb up the short cracks above into an easier wide crack. From high wires (make them good ones) step back down 5m and make a precarious traverse left across the slab. Then step up into the prominent finger crack which is very thin at the start and at the top. Climb the crack and step right to a fine stance with a double bolt anchor.
3) 5, 30m. Climb the finger crack up the left hand side of the upper slab. When it ends , continue past a bolt to an excellent belay ledge on the left with a single bolt anchor - and a steady supply of fresh drinking water on the left.
4) 5, 20m. Move up the shoulder (bolt) then pad up the slab on the right past a second bolt before easier moves lead to the top and another nice belay ledge with another double bolt belay.

Ed Webster, Odd-Roar Wiik 10/Aug/1993

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Lofoten Rock Top 50.


ClimberDateStyle
Graeme Hammond 28/Aug Lead O/S

Fantastic after the scrappy first pitch. P2 was only just dry enough ( mainly dry weather in week before but had rained that morning) with a big wet streak coming out of the crack at the crux but I just managed to pull through without placing any gear after the attempt to place a small can at the bottom almost made me loose friction off my feet at full stretch. Quite safe even without with good runners to the right, you would take a safe swing so maybe only E2 5c provided you have enough smaller cams to also protect the move right into the 2nd crack and belay (also very slightly damp). Led p3 & 4 in one big pitch, bold but straightforward grade 5 climbing (1nut, 1cam and 4 bolts including p1s belay leading in 60m) Was leading on 60m ropes being belayed off a sling and I ran completely out of rope as I reached the lower off so be warned the pitch lengths are wrong (NOT 20 + 30m). Overall a great classic worth doing and not as bold as you might think. A fantastic end to the holiday, led all pitches.

with Becky E
mzchambers 20/Aug AltLd O/S

Bold 3 pitch nice work Adam

Mackinclimb 20/Aug AltLd
Pippa 29/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 1 and 3. Pretty run out but easy climbing. Pitch 2 wet at base of crack, crux. Hard to get onto good holds sciddy rock. Lovely route. Sun shone as we reached the slab and watched sea eagles on the belay.

DavidEvans 08/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Nice! What an excellent climb with a bit of everything. The last two pitches (60metres) have 5 bits of gear, so run out, but relatively ok. Do Dr Jekyll on the neighbouring crag first and the top pitches will feel easy in comparison!

with Helen Garrett
PhilipO ?/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Alfred L
cameron_hall 17/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1, 3. Wonderful climb.

will_benfold 17/Jul/13 AltLd dog

Led P2,4. Messed up the crux by being scared of the fall. Kept going across to the (wet) crack then back again for a rest, getting slightly further each time, until I slipped off reversing the moves for the umpteenth time. Came to my senses after taking the (trivial) fall, did the move and the rest of the pitch without incident.

with Cameron
Hidden ?/Jul/13 Lead O/S
James Oswald ?/Jun/13 AltLd dnf

An interesting epic.. After belaying Clare on the 1st pitch on a huge number of dodgy and thin small tree roots I set off up the 2nd pitch on lead. I traversed left across the sloping ledge with 3 high wires as runner above me. I then got to the crack which was both very thin (expected) but also wet (after 2 days of hot, dry weather). After trying unsuccessfully to place a high wire in the crack at the limit of my reach I felt myself lose contact with the rock.. I was off... Then I realised I hadn't fallen off properly, I'd regained balance in a squatting position. I then traversed back right again back to the gear and climbed up the slab to the 2nd belay on Manens dotre. The crack will probably be wet even after plenty of dry weather

with Clare Erskine
Hidden 12/Jul/11 Lead dnf
bridget143 08/Aug/10 AltLd dnf

Traversed across nice E3 slab to wet crack of death, nearly fell off, managed to cross wet patch but crucial foothold wet, reversed scary slab, gear out of sight arghhhh, Toby had a go... retreat!!

tobydunford 08/Aug/10 AltLd dnf
Andrew1 04/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with Hulda
Hulda 04/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with Andi
Hidden 28/Jul/09 AltLd
centurion05 28/Jul/09 AltLd
with patch
Different Steve 01/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

Led P2 & P4 - very thin!

with Steve Gray & Carol Fowles
Alan James - UKC and UKH 18/Jun/08 AltLd
Hidden 04/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
Mattyk 04/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

Ali led the crux 5c? pitch which felt ok. Pretty nice climbing, bold in places. Shame that there are bolts placed on it as would have been a far more exciting proposition without them! Pitch 3 may have had 1 5a move (if you're short) the rest was pretty easy but unprotected 4c? the crux not sure it was that bad although obviously i was on a top rope. Moves felt steady with bomber gear to your side!

with Ali K
Chad123 31/Jul/07 AltLd O/S

Nice thin slab climbing, bit wet on the crux when we did it so felt more like E3. Agree with others, top two pitches are E1 4c/5a for sure, not much gear!

with Jo
datoon 02/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with RT
Oliver Sherman ?/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
with Brad Jackson
Hidden ?/Jun/06 2nd dnf
dave o ?/Jun/06 Lead dnf

started raining on second pitch, so abbed off chains

with Julia H
Chris Craggs 03/Aug/05 AltLd
with Colin Binks
Daniel Armitage 24/Jul/04 AltLd O/S
with Mark Senior
Jonas Wiklund ?/Jul/03 AltLd O/S

Lead crux pitch

with Lotta Svonni
TobyA 07/Aug/02 AltLd O/S
with TobyFK
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC 28/Jun/02 AltLd O/S
with Andy Hyslop
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