Forsida*** n5+
[Forsida pitch 3, 2 kb]128m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
(The Outside Route) A great climb and by far the best way up The Goat - if you are on the island make the effort to get this one done. The famous jump is now more difficult and dangerous than it used to be due to the wider gap and smaller landing area - it makes MUCH more sense to climb across.
1) 3+, 34m. Start at a worn area below the southwest arete of The Goat. Climb a short steep wall then slant left up a rib (or the easier groove on the right) to easy ground. Follow a horizontal crack out right and belay a little higher.
2) 4, 14m. The groove leads to a shoulder, then its continuation ends at a good stance.
3) 5, 30m. Trend left to the base of the prominent crack then jam this, before moving right then back left to exit onto a slab. A little higher, cross the ridge to reach the huge terrace of Sofen (the sofa) and a super-comfy stance.
4) 5, 30m. Climb over blocks to reach the diagonal cracks that split the face above. The initial wide section is awkward then easier climbing leads to the base of a thin section. Up this by finger-jamming to a stance on the shoulder.
5) 5+, 20m. The diagonal crack splitting the face is the 'West Wall Finish'. Make a hard start, then continue to the notch and a possible stance by a fat old peg. Traverse left across the slab to gain the western arete and finish up this to the tip of the Storhorn. Cross the gap to belay on the Lillehorn. © ROCKFAX

Photo: Forsida pitch 3 © brockers
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 84 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

P3, 4 - amazing introduction to Lofoten climbing. Snuck it in after rain and mizzle. Legged it for the bus to Henningsvaer (which we missed - heads up it's the Leknes bus and you change). easy hithc got us to Gandalf campsite that night anyway, saving ~100NOK
Bob Peters - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/15 with Joe

jonnie3430 - AltLd O/S - 08/Jul/15 with Pete

Paul Figg - AltLd - 07/Jul/15 with Rachel Antill

probably the largest ratio of time taken to pitches climbed, as we decided to start mid afternoon. many lazy hours on the comfortable belay ledges and abseiled from the summit just after midnight!
tomdude - Lead O/S - Jul/15 with marie

Led pitches 1, 3 and 5. I though pitch 1 was considerably harder than the 3+ indicated in the guide and was quite worried about the rest of the climb after completing it. Thankfully pitch 2 graded 4 was much easier. For me the hardest part of the climb was the pitch 3 jamming crack. Pitch 5 has an initial crux which is quite height dependant.
MD - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/15 with Jo

Great climb. P1 harder than p2. P3 an unforgiving crack and p4 a good wide ways battle at the start. Pinged off impossibly long reach move on p5 corner (grrr). Need to be able to do the splits between the horns to set up the abseil.
Happy Wanderer - AltLd dog - 20/Jun/15 with Mike D

Cool route. After 10 days of crap weather, the sun came out and it was nearly quite warm. Summit was occupied by leaping locals making a film. Passed mountain rescue on the walk out which my have been related.
Dave Rumney - AltLd - 17/Jun/15 with Tanya Milner

Little AndyH - AltLd O/S - Jun/15

TommyKips - 2nd O/S - Jun/15

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/14

ad111 - Jul/14

John Nuttall - Lead - 10/Jun/14 with Sharon

Hidden - AltLd - 22/Jul/13

I led pitches 3 and 5. Pitch 3 was beautiful but felt rushed as we were chased by Swiss guides up the route. Ultra cluster fuck when i misread route and finished up the right horn! The jump actually looks quite tame but declined due to eveyrone's grumpiness, cold, wind and the fact there were 7 climbers at the top at the same time!
Kemics - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/13 with Jukka, Antti

Hidden - Lead dnf - 10/Jul/13

Lead pitches 1 & 2
inspiration_needed - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/13 with Mat Cooper

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd dog - 24/Jun/13

Great route. Lyndsey lead P1, Clare P2 and P3 and I lead P4 and P5. The route is awesome, great setting with ace climbing. I think that P5 is really height dependent - it felt desperate for Clare and Lyndsey because they couldn't reach the massive jug at the bottom of the groove. Superace team ascent of a really cool pinaccle.
James Oswald - AltLd O/S - Jun/13 with Lindsay, Clare Erskine

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/12

Hidden - Lead - 08/Aug/12

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Jul/12

Led P3. More brilliant climbing. The crux move is 4c if you can reach the obvious massive jug, and 5b if you can't.
victim of mathematics - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/12 with Claire, Simon

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/12

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 12/Jun/12

Hidden - AltLd - 12/Jun/12

Ken Taylor - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/11 with Conan Harrod

Great route up this classic crag
Conan - AltLd - 15/Jul/11 with Ken Taylor

Hidden - Lead rpt - 12/Jul/11

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Jul/11

cat22 - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/11 with Mike

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/11

I led P1,3&5. Did the jump, way more intimidating than it looks from below! A must do (both the route and the jump!)
John Tanner - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/11 with mrstarwarsman

mrstarwarsman - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/11 with john tanner

Snecos - 2011

Danhan - AltLd - 18/Aug/10 with Nick

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Aug/10

Toby P1, me P2, Toby P3, Mik P4, me P5 (no aid and I'm a short arse!)
bridget143 - AltLd O/S - 05/Aug/10 with Toby Dunford, Mikkel

tobydunford - AltLd O/S - 05/Aug/10 with Mikkel, Bridget Hall

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Jul/10

In the rain
cem - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/10 with Dave Amos

Hidden - 2010

led p4, bugger doing the jump although sage manned up as per usual
Dr Caterpillar - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/09 with Alan Sage

joeydurkin - 2nd - 05/Aug/09 with Patch

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Aug/09

Graham Westbrook - AltLd - Aug/09

Theeni - AltLd - Aug/09 with Matt Kemp

Hidden - Lead - 31/Jul/09

Hidden - 2nd - 31/Jul/09

Roch - AltLd - 30/Jul/09 with MRT

richardlong78 - AltLd - 22/Jul/09 with Ginge Moore

Andy Chubb - AltLd - 16/Jul/09 with Guy Hustinx

Led p1, 3 and 5. Belayed from the Storhorn as crossing the gap seemed an unnecessary complication. A fantastic climb, the highlight of my trip.
Blisco - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/09 with Peter Skan

Pitches 1,3,5 and jump!!! Last pitch took 2 hours to lead due to people taking forever to abseil off the top
chiverstom - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/09 with Dave Turner

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Jul/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Jul/09

Joris.Roulleau - AltLd - Jul/09 with Mike Burnett

AJ007 - AltLd - Jul/09 with John, Helen

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/09

dan gibson - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/09 with michael porter

tuukka - AltLd - 20/Jun/09 with Hanna

Fultonius - AltLd O/S - 10/Jun/09 with Andy Inglis

The 'jump' finish was too scary for me!!!
andyinglis - AltLd O/S - 10/Jun/09 with Ally Fulton

Henrik - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/09 with Thomas

cali1001 - AltLd O/S - Jun/09 with jocke

eivindf - Lead O/S - 2009

Led P2 & P4 (top pitch) - what a fantastic place to top out!
Different Steve - AltLd O/S - 29/Jul/08 with Steve Gray & Carol Fowles

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/08

tjkk - 2nd β - 18/Jul/08

Gustav - AltLd O/S - Jul/08 with BeerMonkey

Alan James - UKC and UKH - AltLd - 16/Jun/08 with Mark Glaister

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/07

lead pitch 1,2 and 4
Tim W - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/07 with Ali Kennedy, Jamie Moss

Elsier - 2nd O/S - Jul/07 with Stuart

mattpw - AltLd O/S - Jul/07 with Juha Kaupilla

RAK - AltLd - 20/Jul/06 with Lauri

Oliver Sherman - AltLd O/S - Jul/06 with Brad Jackson

NickJH - AltLd O/S - Jul/06 with CThistlethwaite, CBradley

Hidden - AltLd dnf - Jun/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2006

Bad Mongo - AltLd - Aug/04

Daniel Armitage - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/04 with Charlotte Armitage and Mark Senior

TobyA - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/03 with Dave

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Potemkin, Timothy Miller, Batt

Total votes cast 36
hard n6-0 of 3
n6-0 of 3
easy n6-0 of 3
hard n5+0 of 3
n5+2 of 3
easy n5+1 of 3
hard n50 of 3
n50 of 3
easy n50 of 3
3 Stars13 of 15
2 Stars2 of 15
1 Star0 of 15
0 Stars0 of 15
Bag of .....0 of 15
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat