UKC

70m, 3 pitches. This route leads up to and through the clean crack through the bare overhanging bulge at threequarters height to the left of Cuinne Flaithuilach.
Traverse the ledge as for Cuinne Flaithuilach. At the end of the sketchy section is a corner. Start here. Cuinne Flaithuilach is 3m further on.
1. Ascend the crack above the corner to a good ledge.
2. Follow the crack with trapped flakes, through a small overhang and slab above to ledges
3. Second should traverse left to belay below the crack through the overhang.
Pull through the overhang to glorious climbing above. Higher is a short broken crack to top of pillar and ledges.
4. Diff climbing and scrambling leads to moorland.
Cleaned on lead. One rest for cleaning on pitch 2.
First ascent took over seven hours. Further ascents should take somewhat less.

Gerry Fogg, Peter Britton 25/Mar/2011.

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Route of Interest
Emperor's Nose

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Coumshingaun)

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