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Dolphin Cracks* HVS 5a

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[Dolphin Cracks pitch 1, 2 kb]A classic crack-fest that follows the intimidating wide vertical crack on the left side of the face and the exposed corner to the left of the huge capping roof. Start on ledges below the wide corner-crack.. 1) 5a, 10m. Move up to below the crack and bridge and layback up it, past a useful chockstone, to a large belay ledge.. 2) 4c, 18m. Climb the knobbly curving crack in the less steep face above to below the corner-crack to the left of the huge roof. Pull steeply up into the corner and follow it all the way to the top. An exposed pitch. © ROCKFAX
R Goodier, J Deacon (AL), 1st pitch climbed by T Genge in 1947 09/Sep/1955

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

Photo: Dolphin Cracks pitch 1 © Mark Glaister
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 119 logbooks, and on 10 wishlists.

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Aug/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/14

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Aug/14

Tom Seccombe - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/14 with Louise Street

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/14

augustus trout - Lead - 20/Jun/14

MaccMark - 2nd - 20/Jun/14 with James Williams

I'm not keen on lay-backing. Led P1 in a bit of a siege style. Chock stone is now deep in the crack and not reachable. Top out is a bit desperate. P2 excellent and a good crack climb in its lower reaches. Lots of gear. A climb with lots to offer ! 2 stars!
Lumbering Oaf - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/14 with Matt george

Matt applied siege tactics and eventually conquered the brutal first pitch. The hard moves are at the top, after the last pro. He laid back before stepping his right foot into the crack. I bridged, and then stepped into the crack. Tough pitch. I lead pitch two, which starts with a jamming crack. Hard to get established. The climbing and position of the second half of P2 are incredible - I'd highly recommend!
manbat - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/14 with Matthew Box

Joris.Roulleau - AltLd O/S - 04/May/14 with Leo, Scott Bradshaw

Hidden - 2nd β - 19/Apr/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/14

Such a nice crack to lead, p2 was interesting too.
zcsharp - AltLd O/S - 08/Mar/14 with Jonny Raines

Hidden - Lead - 04/Sep/13

kelliroberts3 - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/13 with Peter Rigby

gripped01 - Lead - 25/Aug/13 with Alex Tomczynski

the first pitch was a straightforward layback ,its a good job i was well secured on the belay ledge for pitch two as the increasingly strong gusty wind blew me over,it didn't help the climbing on the exposed upper pitch either.
whiteexplorer - 2nd O/S - 02/Aug/13 with joe

note to self lay backing is easier than arm jamming
dready - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/13

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Jun/13

alice fuller - Lead O/S - Jun/13 with Woj

Merrick796 - Lead - 25/May/13

completed first pitch and retreated from second, was harder then expected. not properly discibed in the log book.
stuieb123 - 2nd dnf - 19/May/13 with jamie merrick

Butch. Rescued a flying Dutchman who'd landed on his head subsequently
morganator - AltLd - 16/May/13 with International Meet Guest

Nick Wallis - AltLd - May/13 with BMC international meet

Ed morris - AltLd O/S - 27/Apr/13 with ewan

Led P1, Ed P2. Nice route
ewanthomson - AltLd O/S - 27/Apr/13 with Ed morris

Right arm in, offwidthing. Too hard.
Tom Last - Lead dnf - 04/Apr/13 with Billy

Lead P2. P1 is tough!
dprctr - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/13 with Patrick

did in one long pitch. nice crack climbing all the way, start interesting but well protectable with 3.5 camalot and chock stone.
msoldn - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/12 with Mari, Edwin

Mayo - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/12

Philippa Arding - 2nd - 26/Aug/12 with nick arding

done in one pitch, belay ledge is not visible from top of climb!
Spearos - 2nd O/S - 20/Aug/12 with Riggo

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/12

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Jul/12

aljezurusrf08 - 2nd dog - 01/Jul/12 with Willow

tgeh - AltLd O/S - 28/Jun/12 with dan geh

glad I had a big cam for the first pitch.
Dan Geh - AltLd O/S - 28/Jun/12 with Thomas Geh

ushi - Lead - 24/Jun/12 with Andy Marshall

mark88 - AltLd - 04/Jun/12 with Paul Millen

Dean177 - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/12

Really enjoyed this climb. First pitch is strenuous (basically a long layback - the chock stone half way up is a crucial sling placement). Second pitch is beautifully exposed and the views are excellent! :)
BelayBunney - Lead O/S - 20/May/12 with Catherine

Hidden - 2nd dog - 20/May/12

Backed off this back in febuary, its not too hard once you commit to the layback
arandall - Lead β - 12/May/12 with Wendy Matthews

Wendy Watthews - 2nd O/S - 12/May/12 with arandall

In one pitch
Mr Powly - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/12 with Ian B

tobydunford - 2nd O/S - 03/Apr/12 with Harry Martin

Pete Graham - Lead - Apr/12 with Rick Graham

Hidden - AltLd - 10/Mar/12

Quite similar to Goliaths Groove at Stanage, really awkward off width crack at the back of a corner.
arandall - Lead dnf - 12/Feb/12 with Wendy Matthews

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2012

wojt - Lead O/S - 2012

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2012

Nice. Led p1. Felt 2nd pitch was 5a, not 4c as stated in the guidebook.
andybenham - AltLd O/S - 10/Dec/11 with paul abram

i_a_coops - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/11

first hvs lead. 1st pitch has no gear till the top once past the chockstone. second pitch found equally as hard as the first just with lots more gear around
carl_123 - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/11

Andy Mathers - 2nd O/S - 02/Sep/11

Julesthe1st - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/11 with Mike

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/11

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Aug/11

Stunning climbing. One of the best routes of the year (so far...)
lewiz - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/11 with Mishtu Tiwary

mishtu - 2nd - 13/Aug/11 with lewiz

CRiddiford - 2nd - 21/Jun/11 with Becca

Lead first pitch but couldn't do second as very very windy! Hard 5a
BeccaSnowden - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/11 with Caroline

thomasadixon - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/11 with Mike

fell on the first (5a) pitch. Climbed successfully on 2nd attempt
chris687 - Lead dog - 05/Jun/11 with James price

Pricey06 - AltLd dog - 05/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead - 03/Jun/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/May/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Apr/11

Clay C - 2nd O/S - 12/Mar/11 with Harry B, Alasdair

H + C, nice route. a bit of a drag if done in one pitch though
Alasdair88 - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/11

mwatson - 2011

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Sep/10

david morse - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/10 with chris todd

Mayo - Lead dog - 17/Sep/10 with Erin Bastian

erinbastian - 2nd - 17/Sep/10 with Ken Mayo

Pile of Dog poo. Not worth the movement. Not 2 stars at all.
El3ctroFuzz - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/10 with Elaine Budden

Elaine Budden - 2nd O/S - 11/Sep/10 with tom bunn

Hidden - Sep/10

3 Names - AltLd - 06/Aug/10 with Sumee Holloway

Hidden - 2nd - Aug/10

DSM - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/10 with Paul Dearden

mtom91 - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/09

Mark Kemball - Lead - 13/Sep/09 with Lee Bartrop

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/09

lrandall - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/09 with Alan D

paulh1967 - 2009

keith leonard - 2009

Subwaycups - 2nd O/S - Jun/08

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

Tough
bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/07 with Clare

jfreeman - Lead O/S - Jun/07 with Steve Rigler

Wet and dirty.
JackMountains - AltLd dnf - 24/May/07 with Ben Snook

Ben Snook - AltLd - 24/May/07 with n0ph33r

I led P1 but we'd soloed the crack after the optional belay ledge earlier so took the LH version (the start of the E5 I think) to a hanging belay under the roof.
Neil Adams - AltLd O/S - 06/May/07 with Tim from BUMC

Tom87 - 2nd O/S - Mar/07 with Jez

i led the first pitch cleanly, we had to retreat off the second
Ben Snook - AltLd - 2007 with n0ph33r

drysori - 2007

reg_measures - AltLd O/S - 30/May/06 with timmy elson

Bloody horrible offwidth with an awkward exit on the first pitch.
maresia - 2nd dog - 29/Apr/06 with Mike Kann

mike kann - Lead - 2006 with Bill Naylor

Ashley Hold - Lead - 03/Sep/04 with Laurence North

Hidden - Lead - 24/Aug/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/02

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/01

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/00

stuart100 - Lead O/S - 20/May/00 with Claire Graham

Marti999 - Lead - 2000

chris sm - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/97 with Pippa Froggatt

Neil Conway - 2nd O/S - Mar/97 with Steve Hardy & Darren Leigh

K1 - Lead - 1995

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Nov/87

When it was VS. Felt gripped because one friend told me it was a chop route and another mentioned a friend who'd broken his pelvis falling off it.
Nigel Coe - AltLd - 26/May/81 with Steve Portnoi

tapley - Lead - 02/Oct/80 with Alison Tapley

babymoac - AltLd - 18/Aug/80 with MTW

Hidden - Lead - 19/Aug/77

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Aug/77

Bolt Phobia - Lead - 07/Apr/76 with John Broadwell

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Jules Lane, Maywood96, Hidden, Hidden, rockpool, SurferStan, johnpr, Phoebe, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 83
hard E10 of 28
E10 of 28
easy E10 of 28
hard HVS7 of 28
HVS21 of 28
easy HVS0 of 28
hard VS0 of 28
VS0 of 28
easy VS0 of 28
hard 5b0 of 28
5b0 of 28
easy 5b4 of 28
hard 5a14 of 28
5a10 of 28
easy 5a0 of 28
hard 4c0 of 28
4c0 of 28
easy 4c0 of 28
3 Stars3 of 27
2 Stars16 of 27
1 Star7 of 27
0 Stars0 of 27
Bag of .....1 of 27
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Style of ascent

Lead57 of 119 (47.9%)
Followed28 of 119 (23.5%)
Alt Leads29 of 119 (24.4%)
Unknown5 of 119 (4.2%)

'Climbed'42 of 119 (35.3%)
clean O/S65 of 119 (54.6%)
clean β2 of 119 (1.7%)
dogged6 of 119 (5.0%)
dnf4 of 119 (3.4%)