Surrounded by fantastic beaches the popular climbing area of Baggy point features excellent slab climbing on metamorphosed sandstone. With grades ranging from Mod to E7 with several routes graded XS. Have a look at the climbing on Cheesegrater Cliff and Concrete wall for something much more adventurous.
Dates: 15 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Following a review of climbing restrictions at Baggy Point, the historical restriction on the Long Rock was lifted in 2013. This means that both the Long Rock and the Promontory are unrestricted, but the remaining climbing areas from Scrattling Zawn to Concrete Wall inclusive and Central Walls to Slab Cove inclusive are still restricted for the duration of the nesting season.
There is still a slightly confusing white marker at the top of the descent to the Long Rock, however the restriction definitely no longer applies to this part of the headland. The National Trust are aware of this and will move the marker at some point in the future, but given a busy summer work schedule this may not be for some time. In the meantime, please feel free to access this part of the crag. Many thanks to the National Trust for their help with this.
Rockfax Description
The full-height corner in the centre of the slab provides a superb and very sustained climb. Begin at thin crack left of the corner. Climb the thin crack to the overlap and make difficult moves over it to gain the base of the corner. Sustained and technical moves up the corner reach an easing at mid-height. The upper section of the corner provides more great climbing. © Rockfax
Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice , Littlejohn South West Climbs , West Country Climbs , Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Culm Along , Starred routes S-E2, North Devon , Ultimate E1 ticklist , South West in Extremis , Culm/Devon options , Devon and surrounding counties 50 E2 and some E3 and a few E4 and an E5 , Road to lundy
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Alwaysinjured | 5 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: I think the ‘Ye old scrote’ start is a great line. E2 5b/c this way (following the crack line) - it’s just so sustained | ||
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βeta: I think the ‘Ye old scrote’ start is a great line. E2 5b/c this way (following the crack line) - it’s just so sustained |
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J.A.Thomson | 17 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: Lead the new start today, and found that there is a sequence that went at the same grad e1 5b over the overlap, using the start of ye olde scrote crack. This has more protected than the old start but more sustained climbing. And found it nice, it dosent let the rout down Enjoy | ||
Show beta
βeta: Lead the new start today, and found that there is a sequence that went at the same grad e1 5b over the overlap, using the start of ye olde scrote crack. This has more protected than the old start but more sustained climbing. And found it nice, it dosent let the rout down Enjoy |
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jimbonfire | 17 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: Good lead by Jay. I didn’t climb the original but would suggest the same grade via this line . | βeta? | |
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βeta: Good lead by Jay. I didn’t climb the original but would suggest the same grade via this line . |
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Cherry Bedford | 15 Apr, 2021 |
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βeta: Climbed Apr 2021. Start as for Ye Olde Scrote up the thin crack, climb the overhang to the left of the crack and traverse back right (tricky) before rejoining the main corner. Possibly E2 5c in its current form? Definitely worth 2 stars still | βeta? | |
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βeta: Climbed Apr 2021. Start as for Ye Olde Scrote up the thin crack, climb the overhang to the left of the crack and traverse back right (tricky) before rejoining the main corner. Possibly E2 5c in its current form? Definitely worth 2 stars still |
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Alwaysinjured | 4 Nov, 2020 |
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βeta: 04.11.20 Update - the two huge blocks have joined their friends on the beach. The grade of this route is likely to have changed. | βeta? | |
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βeta: 04.11.20 Update - the two huge blocks have joined their friends on the beach. The grade of this route is likely to have changed. |
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Alwaysinjured | 15 Oct, 2020 |
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βeta: 15.10.20. Beware - there has been a large rockfall on the lower section of this climb (Twinkletoes is also partially affected). Two huge blocks which have cleaved away from the cliff remain and are left hanging. They could fall at any time. This needs urgent attention. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: 15.10.20. Beware - there has been a large rockfall on the lower section of this climb (Twinkletoes is also partially affected). Two huge blocks which have cleaved away from the cliff remain and are left hanging. They could fall at any time. This needs urgent attention. |
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Grade: E2 5c ***
(Telegraph Hole)