UKC

Restricted Access

Surrounded by fantastic beaches the popular climbing area of Baggy point features excellent slab climbing on metamorphosed sandstone. With grades ranging from Mod to E7 with several routes graded XS. Have a look at the climbing on Cheesegrater Cliff and Concrete wall for something much more adventurous. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Following a review of climbing restrictions at Baggy Point, the historical restriction on the Long Rock was lifted in 2013. This means that both the Long Rock and the Promontory are unrestricted, but the remaining climbing areas from Scrattling Zawn to Concrete Wall inclusive and Central Walls to Slab Cove inclusive are still restricted for the duration of the nesting season.

There is still a slightly confusing white marker at the top of the descent to the Long Rock, however the restriction definitely no longer applies to this part of the headland. The National Trust are aware of this and will move the marker at some point in the future, but given a busy summer work schedule this may not be for some time. In the meantime, please feel free to access this part of the crag. Many thanks to the National Trust for their help with this.

Rockfax Description
The full-height corner in the centre of the slab provides a superb and very sustained climb. Begin at thin crack left of the corner. Climb the thin crack to the overlap and make difficult moves over it to gain the base of the corner. Sustained and technical moves up the corner reach an easing at mid-height. The upper section of the corner provides more great climbing. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice , Littlejohn South West Climbs , West Country Climbs , Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Culm Along , Starred routes S-E2, North Devon , Ultimate E1 ticklist , South West in Extremis , Culm/Devon options , Devon and surrounding counties 50 E2 and some E3 and a few E4 and an E5 , Road to lundy

Feedback

User Date Notes
Alwaysinjured 5 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: I think the ‘Ye old scrote’ start is a great line. E2 5b/c this way (following the crack line) - it’s just so sustained
Show beta
βeta: I think the ‘Ye old scrote’ start is a great line. E2 5b/c this way (following the crack line) - it’s just so sustained
J.A.Thomson 17 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Lead the new start today, and found that there is a sequence that went at the same grad e1 5b over the overlap, using the start of ye olde scrote crack. This has more protected than the old start but more sustained climbing. And found it nice, it dosent let the rout down Enjoy
Show beta
βeta: Lead the new start today, and found that there is a sequence that went at the same grad e1 5b over the overlap, using the start of ye olde scrote crack. This has more protected than the old start but more sustained climbing. And found it nice, it dosent let the rout down Enjoy
jimbonfire 17 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Good lead by Jay. I didn’t climb the original but would suggest the same grade via this line .
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good lead by Jay. I didn’t climb the original but would suggest the same grade via this line .
Cherry Bedford 15 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Climbed Apr 2021. Start as for Ye Olde Scrote up the thin crack, climb the overhang to the left of the crack and traverse back right (tricky) before rejoining the main corner. Possibly E2 5c in its current form? Definitely worth 2 stars still
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Climbed Apr 2021. Start as for Ye Olde Scrote up the thin crack, climb the overhang to the left of the crack and traverse back right (tricky) before rejoining the main corner. Possibly E2 5c in its current form? Definitely worth 2 stars still
Alwaysinjured 4 Nov, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: 04.11.20 Update - the two huge blocks have joined their friends on the beach. The grade of this route is likely to have changed.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 04.11.20 Update - the two huge blocks have joined their friends on the beach. The grade of this route is likely to have changed.
Alwaysinjured 15 Oct, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: 15.10.20. Beware - there has been a large rockfall on the lower section of this climb (Twinkletoes is also partially affected). Two huge blocks which have cleaved away from the cliff remain and are left hanging. They could fall at any time. This needs urgent attention.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 15.10.20. Beware - there has been a large rockfall on the lower section of this climb (Twinkletoes is also partially affected). Two huge blocks which have cleaved away from the cliff remain and are left hanging. They could fall at any time. This needs urgent attention.

Logged Ascents

260 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Baggy Point

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 38
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 39
Votes cast 39
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Crinoid

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Telegraph Hole)

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