Rockfax Description
The route is the easiest on the face but has less fixed gear, although the belays are bolted for descent. Start below a large black streak with many 'huevos' (egg-like) holds. The ,ower section has a slab with many 'canalizos' - little half drain-pipe features.
1) 3c, 20m. Climb up the canalizos to the belay near a grassy niche.
2) 4c, 30m. Climb up to gain the black streak and climb this boldly, passing a lonely bolt, to reach the next belay.
3) 4c 30m. Rejoin the black streak and the pockets. There are 3 bolts on the pitch but the first is high although you can get some gear in before it.
4) 4c, 30m. Carry on up the streak but keep an eye out for a flake on its left where there is a hidden bolt. Once on the flake, get some gear to settle the nerves. Carry on up to a small overlap - bolt on the right - and pass the overlap onto a belay in a grassy niche.
5) 4c, 30m. Climb on the right aiming for the bottom of a corner - not much protection. The line is supposed to go left but it is overgrown.
6) 5c, 30m. Climb the corner - pegs, bolt and thread. A short distance above this is the belay.
7) 6a, 30m. Trending up right and look for a bolt, passing a thread. A hard section above is well protected by bolts.
8) 5c, 30m. Head up and right looking for a bolt on a rib, this is the junction with La Conjura de Los Fatos. A tricky section above is protected by another bolt which is followed by a final corner to the top of the crag.
Descent - Abseil down the route on 2 x 60m ropes. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The left hand line - direct to south summit. Equipped for abseil descent. Tech grade V+ / 6a (TD grade in Cicerone guide)

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