|A fantastic route which overcomes the overhangs of the lower face before continuing up a series of wide well-protected cracks.|
Start as for the bolted Variante Franceschi, on a boulder directly below a crack. Bolted in the lower section.
1) VI+, 30m. Climb the crack to the roof, pull through this then continue to a higher, larger roof. Climb this direct on good holds then follow the crack with easier climbing to a third overhang. Pull through this to the stance.
2) V+, 30m. Continue following the corner-crack above. Climb the continuation chimney to a ledge on the left.
3) IV+, 50m. Climb direct from the belay in a crack, climb a bulge then continue up easier cracks to the left to a good stance. From here either join the descent from the summit, or continue easily for 30m to the summit. © ROCKFAX
3 Pitch trad route - 6b,5+,4+