Franceschi*** VI+
[Via Franceschi,Cinque Torri Dolomites P.Ross and R. Blain 1961, 2 kb]

Rockfax Description
A fantastic route which overcomes the overhangs of the lower face before continuing up a series of wide well-protected cracks.
Start as for the bolted Variante Franceschi, on a boulder directly below a crack. Bolted in the lower section.
1) VI+, 30m. Climb the crack to the roof, pull through this then continue to a higher, larger roof. Climb this direct on good holds then follow the crack with easier climbing to a third overhang. Pull through this to the stance.
2) V+, 30m. Continue following the corner-crack above. Climb the continuation chimney to a ledge on the left.
3) IV+, 50m. Climb direct from the belay in a crack, climb a bulge then continue up easier cracks to the left to a good stance. From here either join the descent from the summit, or continue easily for 30m to the summit. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
3 Pitch trad route - 6b,5+,4+

Photo: Via Franceschi,Cinque Torri Dolomites P.Ross and R. Blain 1961 © USBRIT
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 12 logbooks, and on no wishlists.

Nails first pitch. Tough 6b+ at least.
james1978 - Lead dog - 26/Sep/15

Led P1 and 3. Definitely not 3 stars. First pitch is decent but felt like a bit of a sandbag, the remainder are scrappy.
Oli - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/15 with Tats

Oli led first crux pitch through the overhangs, then followed 2 crappy pitches of dirty loose cracks and vegetation, nobody climbs the top pitches! 3* my arse! First pitch was good though!
tatz45 - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/15 with Oli Lewis

Failed on the first pitch, defo 6c sport if it was anywhere else. However, I then ran the second pitch in with the first. This makes an outstanding 55m stamina fest of the 2nd pitch. E1/2? Spent at the end of it.
Kevster - Lead dog - 11/Jul/15 with P Ecton

First pitch fully bolted. Pretty strenuous crux, felt more like 6c than a 6b.
whistler - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/12 with Mark Littlewood

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/11

Hidden - Lead dnf - 22/Aug/10

Nicos - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/07 with rich howels

andyinglis - AltLd - Jun/04 with Neil Adams

simon kimber - AltLd O/S - Sep/03 with Paul Burren

whispering nic - Lead - 2001 with The Wife

We all made a right hash of the crux pitch, then done in artificial and made famous by a photo of Rébuffat on it
jcw - 14/Aug/67 with Barbara James, Ron James

Total votes cast 3
hard 6b+0 of 2
6b+0 of 2
easy 6b+2 of 2
3 Stars0 of 1
2 Stars1 of 1
1 Star0 of 1
0 Stars0 of 1
Bag of .....0 of 1
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.